Search results for query: *

Sitting that long did you see if it would turn over? If not oiled down good could be locked up even though never started. Might be best to disassemble and check everything before trying to start What does she want? Or are you trying to price it for her

Had hooker super comps and they SUCK big time Then went with TTI polished ceramic coated and they fit so much better than the hookers But they have a slip tube that I don't care much for to go around the left torsion bar Have no clue about Doug's Wish I had a set of good 68-69 340...

I have been thinking about my 340 I have .040 overbore, stock compression for a 71 340 with J heads that have 2.02/1.60 valves 3 angle valve job It does not like much timing and pump gas, timing was backed out and it still wanted to knock, so I have to give it a dose of Cam 2 to be HAPPY...

mine got 2.02 valves when I took them to the machine shop and ask if they could open them up for a set of 2.02 valves The "X" heads came with 2.02 as far as I know "J" heads came with 1.88

Great thread Have an airgap intake and noticed anti freeze in the valley, was thinking maybe the threads on the bolts didn't get sealant when installed. Then got to thin king that I have a problem with it smoking when it idles much and now I'm thinking the problem might be the intake gaskets...

not an expert but I was told that any older engine with high lift cam, or sits for long periods need the additive. The additive helps the oil cling to the metal Because what a cam & lifter change or engine rebuild cost it should be well worth the cost, even if you don't need it my 2 cents

I should have bought a set of EDELBROCK aluminum heads, yes that is what I would buy

now before making plans to build what is there, think about this make a stroker out of it & use aluminum heads By the time you rebuild the X heads you will be close to new aluminum ones. (harden seats, SS valves, new springs & guides) Run higher compression without detonation with the...

I have a set of J heads. Should have bought a set of aluminum heads instead of spending the money on a set of J heads that was in the shed, so they were FREE, I don't remember even where I got them. The #5 cylinder has tagged the valves and bent the pushrods twice. My guess now is they had the...

Friday I got the correct replacement pulley and put it on yesterday I would say it helped. Before cruising it would run about 190 and yesterday it was on 170, stop at light it went up a little but still under 180. Once home I let it sit idling and yes it heated up to over 200 but took 10 -...

In the last build the heads were completely rebuilt, new valves & guides at Indy Cylinder Head. New Comp solid lift cam and new Push rods made to exact lenght needed I should have put a new water pump on the last build, but I don't want to change anything that would require opening the engine...

Yeah I plan on going back to a stock fan and shroud if the pulley change and tune doesn't do it. The saga continues with March They called and talked to my wife with cost on the smaller water pump pulley. She gave them credit info and it was to be on the way. yesterday i get an invoice from...

I did it on my 340 in a 67 Dart remove center link and I had to unbolt my hooker headers. It has been 5 years and I think i raised the engine a little, but not 100% sure, but yes it can be done

I have a .040 340, iron "J" heads, that has been the engine from HELL. It came out of a 71 DEMON and I think it is POSSESED. Be Cool radiator, AC water pump, TTI headers, Air Gap intake, electric fan and the March Pulleys It was built about 8 years ago, installed in 2004 and car on the...

Just make sure the convertor fits into the hole in the crank. I used a 273 HIPO crank in a 340 and the convertor didn't fit the crank. I was young and STUPID. I made it fit, but it had a vibration. After checking the crank rod & main journals I thought all was OK, but it should have been...

what kind of fuel pump? the holley on my car went bad with only a few miles on it. I put a clear glass filter between pump & carb and a cheap fuel pressure gauge to determine the pump was bad good luck

got rotella in my 340 right now to break in, but also added the comp cams zinc additive have a case of Joe Gibbs oil to change once broke in but will probably run something different once that is gone and just use the additive. one bottle per oil change at $12 a bottle seems like the way to go

were you using a craftsman extractor? they are junk, too brittle and break way to easy I use to break them off all the time and then Dad would use a punch and get it out then use his extractors from work and back thew broken bolt/stud out every time Now that dad is gone I have to be more...

Need some pictures of the car For a driver the 5.7 will give you less trouble and better mileage If I were buying a crate I would check out Blueprint Engines they have a 408 stroker for $3,600 + shipping pictures of my 67 Dart Convertible

worked for a while today on getting the engine ready to go back in. Might get it in tomorrow jump in there, jump in there clean and ready engine, trans bolted together and ready to go in

how much do you want to drive it? If I were starting over and didn't have all the new stuff from the build I would go with the 5.7, tube K member, R&P steering, coil overs and OD trans. The car could be used as a daily driver if you wanted and it would probably get in the low to mid 20 MPG and...

It might not be in and I'm hoping that the next time I go over that it was so excited to be home it jumps in while I'm gone It should be back in the car in the next week, now to focus on getting it running in the car

read somewhere to insert screwdriver into tube and gently tap with hammer to seat dip tube if it will not go this way then use the emery cloth

sonic testing will tell how far it can be bored Get a 360, cheap and will be more to start with than a 318, cost the same to build My 2 cents depending on what you think you will spend, buy a Blueprint Engines 408 stroker complete oil pan to intake $3,600 + shipping, drop it in and you...

Picked it up today, the timing set and carb rejetted and a final pull before removing Dyno room temp 92 deg Barometric pressure 29.21 inHG Humidity 32.58 He only run it up to 5,129 rpm, looks like it was still making power. On this pull it shows best Torque 4747 rpm ..... 342.6 ft-lb...

I'm no expert, but here is my 2 cents I'm thinking you should go with a Big Block. I was checking into stroking my 340 out to 426, just thought it would be cool to have a 426 small block. But at the expense to do it I could build a real 426 and to add a blower, you definately will need more...

I cannot really tell by the pictures but it looks like the top coat is off the bearing and down to the copper Crank doesn't look grooved, have you checked it with a micrometer could it be turned or polished ? how many miles are on the bearings? unless there is a serious groove in the...

well after a few months being completely rebuilt again the engine was started yesterday. They show on TV in just a minute or two an engine set up on stand and hooked to dyno. Well I got there at 9am and by noon we were about ready to run. Ben (ProMax) normally has his BB on the stand to...

How to Build Big-Inch Mopar small blocks. I bought 2 different books before starting the rebuild on my 340. This is a must read for a stock or performance build. Many good tips that work on both. Now if you have not bought any parts or started to recondition the 360, buy a stroker kit if...

I have air gap with mopar air cleaner and got a shorter filter for it for enough hood clearance I believe it is 12 3/4" x 2 3/4" and I got a 12 3/4 " x 2" filter clears the hood OK but the insulation rubbed and had to go