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I had one burn a hole right about in that spot, 340 6 pak factory manifold. Had to have it tigged.

Based on the 3 and the G it came out of the St Louis plant, and from either a Dart Sport or a Duster, as St Louis appears to have built those car lines in 73 (according to Wikipedia...) 1973–1976 Dodge Dart/Plymouth Valiant

2nd digit on that block vin denotes the factory. Find out what factory, and then if that factory made trucks.

How tight were the bearing and ring clearances? Any real friction on 1st startup are from those two components. Tining and air pockets in the cooling systems are the other possible issues. Oil pressure good and plenty of oil up to the valve train?

Those are high compression and very heavy. like 11.5 to 1 or more compression depending on the chamber volume. I'd consider having the domes machined down to lower the compression and lose some weight, or trade them for some lower compression pistons. Better have some race gas if you decode to...

If you would have cranked it over another full revolution you would have been on the money. The marks would have been dot - to - dot. Crank turns twice for every one revolution of the cam.

I'd leave it alone, drive it a while, and make that one as fast as you can with what you got. Then you can decide if you want to go faster. As the old saying goes - 'Speed costs money son; how fast do you want to go?' Always a bit to be gained by just tuning on it instead of throwing money at a...

On a billet roller there's usually a part # or other info etched in with an electric vibrating tool. Pull the timing gear and see. Mark the gears at TDC and put your own 'dots' on it, (use a straight edge from the center of the cam bolt to the middle of the crank snout) and have at it. Watch out...

Both shafts are right, it depends on what type of rocker arm you are going to use. The oil holes should direct the oil where it's needed, and on a stamped steel rocker you don't need oil squirting off to the side, like for an adjustable rocker arm that may have a hole there to direct oil to the...

First car I ever owned, slant six Cuda. Had like 150K, decided to take the head off and give it to a friend so he could do a valve job on it in high school auto shop. Pull the head, and there's a 1/4 - 20 bolt sticking right out of the piston, embedded at an angle, sticking up and kissing the...

Neither would be too many cfm's for that motor. Go with which ever you know how to tune, or is easiest for you to learn on or are familiar with.

Get an engine cleaning brush kit. Plenty of various size nylon bristle bottle brushes in them - one is bound to do the job. Now if you REALLY want to be thorough - knock out the end caps and replace them when done.

Did I hear it backfire when you got off the pedal, on deceleration? I had a burnt exhaust valve do that...mine would pop out of the carb or exhaust...idled normal...an exhaust leak between the head and manifold would do that too...

For the record, I personally will not use a timing light with an advance dial on it. Too many stories of that circuitry corrupting the spark somehow, causing issues. I've got a 20+ year plain old Craftsman that, knock on wood, still works great...even when used with an MSD ignition.

Just saw your video - any issues with the distributor advance weights? No broken springs in the distributor? Is the vac advance diaphragm arm engaged in the advance plate? If the timing chain is known good I might try swapping in a different known good distributor, or go through yours to be sure...

Are the metering rods / power piston assembly adjusted properly in the carb? Float level set correctly? Have you had a vacuum gauge on the motor? Can you rig one in the cabin and watch it while you are driving and check the reading when it acts up? Noticed your pushrod question - Have the heads...

What do the plugs look like? Cooler air means it should be going leaner, if it's lean already might be too lean for the better air. Also, check your valve spring pressures. Whats the total timing at 2500?

268XE. I put one in a 3.54 tri power 340 4 speed e body, stock manifolds. Great idle, power, mid range. Shoved it in dot to dot, too. You won't regret it.

Yea it's a pain while its running, you can do it with the motor off but set the idle low enough and it's doable while running, especially with 273 style rockers and their interference fit adjusters. I've done it with both style adjusters.

Get the motor warmed up, back off each rocker one at a time til that valve ticks, then slowly tighten til the tick goes away and then 1/4 turn more. Good to do anyway once in a while, especially if you beat on the motor a lot, like at the drags. Adjusting them can't hurt if done right.

Yea, re-do them for sure. They probably were barely pumped up. And rag on the original guy who assembled the motor who left the plug out. Hope it did not see any mileage or use with the plug out as the bearings could be the worse for it.

Have you thought out any balance issues with the cast crank? Do you have a correct flywheel for the 360? Here's my idea for a rat rod. It ain't mine - something I saw in the parking lot of a bone yard I frequent. Yea, it's a Ford ( I think) with a Chevy motor, but it's WAY cool...

Oh, and solid cams are never as quiet as a hydraulic. A well adjusted solid should make a sound like a sewing machine, without a lot of clacking or crashing about.

You first need to figure out if its hydraulic or solid. If hydraulic, then zero lash, loosen one at a time while running til they click, then tighten till it quiets, then 1/2 turn more. If its solid, then you need to find out who made the cam to get the factory lash specs. If it is solid, I'd...

XE268 - over and done. Didn't even degree it - just threw it in dot to dot. And as others have said, make sure everything else is up to snuff. I threw an XE268 in an otherwise stock 30 over 1970 340 with forged trw 10.5 flattops and it runs great with that cam. Stock exhaust too.

Crank can probably be saved by welding that journal and regrinding, if the rest of the journals are still to spec.

Hey, they're bought and paid for. Can always swap to new heads later... life is too short to put stuff off sometimes, work with what you got for now, improve if possible later. What would it cost - the heads and a head gasket set...

Afraid of wearing out the lobes on a flat tappet? This could be the only real reason I'd consider going roller. One of the main reasons for a roller cam is that you can open and close the valve much faster, because of that roller. Try to do that on a solid and the edge of the lifter would dig...

Probably a 318 / 5.2, roller cam motor with 302 heads. Not sure on the trans, may be a 904 or 727 overdrive variant. The motor may make a good candidate so long as you swap over to a carburated intake, carb and regular electronic distributor (unless you feel ambitious and want to tackle fuel...

You run a real roller cam with over .600 lift and you will have rocker arm geometry issues, not to mention the valve retainers hitting the insides of the rocker arm. The stock 273 stuff was designed for low lifts for thousands of miles with lots of spring retainer to rocker clearance. You can...