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never ever ever do a burn out in first gear!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

double yes, lip towards the oil.

they have two different thread pitches. a pipe plug is national coarse or national fine and the neutral safety switch is AN.

well go with 5 then and don't worry about the gear box and use a snubber.

you're going to what a lot more than that. 1 or 2 is for ladder bars. try 7 or so.

yes they are

pilfer it along with the springs

no trouble at all. notice the od unit on the table in the background. that's the 518 I installed in my truck. weight isn't a concern. the thing I will do someday when I rebuild another 727 is weld up brackets so the trans is 90* to the stand. that will make it easier to work on and install the...

:cheers:

being good at bracket racing takes a lot of skill and knowing your hotrod. you have both of them down to a science why screw that up with have to start all over with the leaning curve? so my recommendation is NO NO NO NO NO DON'T DO IT, stay with the foot brake.

both are large 3/4 and 1 ton vans and both should have a 518 in them is my guess.

see if some one here will send you a used one. they have a metal washer on them and don't ever leak.

the first/reverse servo may have flipped on it's side or it broke, check the servo out also.

the release spring in the front drum maybe weak causing over lap during the shift.

use one of the 999 with the 2.74 gear. it will effect the flash stall only in first gear and not at any shift.

you don't drop the tran x- member, you raise the floor and modify the x-member some.

the convertors don't interchange between the two transmissions.

no, the rings gears are all in the same place.

I don't see way you couldn't do that.

slow the idle down.

a common problem with steel pans is over tightening them. this pulls the metal around the bolt hole up into the gasket. after this happens the pan is not squishing the seal between the bolts. the fix, remove pan and hammer the bolt holes flat. use a hammer and dolley.

take it out and rebuild it.

and also the governor valve may be removed completely

this was in the days of experimenting with the famous "neutral drop", I reckon they found out the out come was always bad.

rebuild it.

things to save= all internal parts, kickdown linkage and levers and the tail shafts housings.

I agree but changed this a tad.

I have never dealt with an 8.25 so you will probably have to mic everthing to make sure they fit and your asumption is correct. try doctor diff, he's on here.

I never check any.

have you considered posting in the 4-speed section?