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mancini racing part # KYBKG5413 $49.99 each

I had a 2008 caliber, you cannot change the ball joint, even though the parts places will tell you you can. you will distroy the housing getting out. I just looked on the parts site and they accually sell the ball joint seperately which is funny cause the housing is made out of thin crappy...

The rubber washer goes on the joint 1st then install on the arm, then put one metal washer on and tighten to spec install cotter pin......Not sure why you have all the extra parts....The rubber is there to hold the grease in, I thinks it a crappy design, hense the new cup design later down the road

mrmopartech is 100 percent correct and so are these other guys on here... Make sure you check that ASAP that torsion bar could break or twist out as you are going down the road, it's not a pretty site.... I had one break on me in my barn sound like a shot gun went off , one side was on the...

HAHAHA good one, stroker scamp sounds like he has you on the right line....

are you doing 2 threads on the same topic

100 ftlbs is plenty...I dont have a manual but thats what I run mine at...... 55 ftlbs they will fall off.... anything american made with 1/2 20 is 100 ftlbs.....or German torque spec goodintight lol

should be using 1'' bars...but Demonseed is right make sure your control arm bushing's are free, that is what is probably binding up making it stay down

any more?????

are you doing it for the look and stance....or because you are wheeling too much off the line? I am just guessing but if its just a 1/4 inch or less...why not use the spacers in the front....that would be super easy...you wouldn't even need to lengthen your shaft or anything else....would ya put...

anybody have anymore????

lucas.....red and tacky....will not melt or drip out the bottom of your gun like kendall.. I use it on my 34 fleet vehicles..... The other stuff Kendall would drip all over the floor looked like blue oil...

Isn;t there an adjusting bolt right under your seat you can back off.......why not just cut the cable and install new ones.....I hope you have the interior out ....are you tying these to the floor pans or just welding them to the front and rear frames.....

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I know body else likes them but I have done them allot and never had any trouble.......good ole shackle extenders...

shocks will not lift car up....they only control the spring and keep tires on the road.....you may need new rear springs...which can be rearched for the height that you want

engine already out??????jack up and support properly, remove tires..undue torsion bar tension under lower control arm...remove spring clip at the back of torsion bar and pull torsion bar back 2ft or so...remove upper ball joint nuts and seperate, undue calipers or brake lines, remove front metal...

get in the car and just shake steering wheel back and forth....you will notice 3 inches or so of play in steering wheel....it will handle like crap....ask me how I know LOL.....not sure if the pressure from pump takes up the slack or what it is.....if you want it to steer right go manual or you...

you call that welding....Helen keller could weld better than that

cool just throwing a few things out their.....same rims on all four corners.....maybe you put rear rim ( wider off set }, on the front making it sit out farthur and would hit fender when turning.....Just thinking out loud

Hey now if you all are going to fight over parts....Just hand them to me LOL....the front tires are the same size right....

did you measure from the center of the rear wheel to the center of the front wheels each side......That will tell you if it is off or not.....could just be a fender adjustment

yea thats what they do here also, set the toe and go......theys don't want to take the time amd measure frame height and so on.....Hopefully the upper control arms bolts move freely....If not you will have to replace them...Which isn't cheap if you have a shop do it....

I love those Steering wheels

Just went and looked at my 70 dust 340....yep has an ugly azz washer their...I have owned this car since 93 and never paid attention to that.....Thanks small block

impact is fine to tighten obviously....do you have a torque wrench...if not run them up with a impact and tighten by hand....

I am assuming you....checked the fliud level and belt adjustment...if not I would have to guess your pump in smoked....they make a few diff kinds..put some pics on here what it looks like and I am sure someone has one cheap..