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Do an oil change and see what is in there. I bought a Jeep once that ran good at the purchase site but started acting like what you describe a few days later. Turned out the engine was toast and had a very thick oil mixture to make it through the sale.

i think you just need to remove the pilot bushing.

Could it have been a dealer display piece?

Would there be any advantage to using 273 heads on a 318? Or will it even work?

LOL, Yeah, I choose a 428 Cobra Jet cam. Now make that work.

If you painted it and the plugs were there, there will not be paint in the holes. If there is paint in the holes then it is as Rusty said and they were never installed. Never mind, I see you found them.

What do you want? The 69 will have more compression which = power and lower gas mileage. For economy, go with the 74.

Yeah, pics please. Could it be two separate bolt patterns for 727 or 904, or some other adaptability situation?

So those of you who have this magic tool, show us a picture. I've seen lots of pullers, own three or four of them, but never seen an installer tool.

:mumum:Big ole red flag:mumum:

Check the parts wanted section. I saw somebody wanting a pair recently. Maybe it was there maybe it was the post about how to keep plug wires off the exhaust manifolds.

Wrong carb? I can't remember the details but I had a bad combination of intake and carb on my 66 when I got it. The intake holes were smaller than the carb butterfly.

JMHO, I would not buy one new let alone used. The advertizing in the name is too juvenile for my taste.

I would get it out of the car and take it apart, like somebody else said, it might not be froze at all. Kroil is expensive but works quite well.

What year? engine? If it's a 318 it could be one of those 1/4" smog holes. Those are a PITA to get plugged.

Quote: Originally Posted by cuda65vpt View Post Sounds like an electrical problem for sure. A new coil doesn't always mean a good coil. Did you replace the ignition resistor? http://www.mopartsracing.com/parts/e...c/restrore.gif Where is that thing located? It's on the firewall near the...

Sounds like an electrical problem for sure. A new coil doesn't always mean a good coil. Did you replace the ignition resistor? http://www.mopartsracing.com/parts/electronic/restrore.gif

It is an 84 engine. Any ideas what would cause the valve tick? Definitely sure that is what the noise is.

But how do I make the adjustments? :read2:read the book, didn't find any answer.

Thanks, I'll double check all torque on the exhaust header just to be sure.

Exhaust leaks was the reason for the work. I had to remove the heads to plug those little smog holes. I have pinpointed the tick to one of the number 3 valves with the red-neck stethoscope (wood stick).

I didn't see any method of valve/lash adjustment in the shop manual. It is a hydraulic lifter system. Did I miss something in the book Haynes repair manual.

This may have been discussed at length before but I couldn't find an answer. I replaced my head gaskets on the 318 in my 66 barracuda. The engine is a 1984 model. Everything is perfect now except I now have a valve tick on the drivers side. Aside from proper torque on the rocker shaft I see...

if you think the noise is mechanical, you can use an old broom handle and place one end in different places on the engine and listening to the other end. careful of moving parts though.

I have all old mopars with points, condenser and coil. some of your newer type ignition systems did away with the coil. You aren't running electronic ignition through a coil that isn't supposed to be there are you? just a stab in the dark that somebody else may know more about.

you have already ruled out the ignition switch and components with the hot wire from the battery to the + side of the coil. all that's left is gas quantity or quality and correct firing order. my best guess is the latter.

mine was '90 Pioneer. great truck until it got rear-ended, then my son taped up the air leaks on the Passenger side and drove it some more.

center punch before drilling so you don't mess up the threads. those valve cover bolts should only be tightened to 15-17 ft lbs

High compression is nice, but equal in all cylinders is what you are really looking for. Low compression engines will run good if properly tuned.

It's your car, do what you want.