Search results for query: *

DoctorDiff recommends 85-140, with a bottle of the additive you've got. That's what I always use.

I would recommend trying to find one from a late 60's lighter duty truck. If it has a limited slip carrier in it, it will be a Powr Lok. And the housing itself is significantly lighter than the larger and later trucks have. It won't weigh down your car so much, be plenty strong, and have a...

That big thing is a fill plug, and yes, a ratchet is all that is needed. It is an 8 point, but you only need to use 4. You can probably drain most of it by removing the lowest cover bolt. Most differentials don't have drains. The Dana 60s used in the cars had drains on the bottom, so yes...

Prices vary a lot depending on where you live. Around here, it would be $600-$800, depending on condition. Usually closer to the $600. Damn. I should sell some of my axles if they bring $200. I usually see $75 for axles, $250 for a sure grip carrier. The most valuable part is the housing.

You think the 518s are weak, try playing with a stock 545RFE. What a hunk of poo. When you press the button to put it in tow mode, it just turns off fifth gear. You're still in overdrive, and it hunts back and forth between 3rd and 4th. It's obnoxious. The dealership rebuilt mine at...

They pulled your chain because the bellhousings are different.

That's what I was going to say.

Well, I was being optimistic... Anyway, a 7290 and a 1350 joint are the same length, but the 1350 cap is .062" larger. It's probably not a huge difference in strength. I'd personally make my decision on which pinion yoke is cheaper for a good quality yoke with u-bolt attachment instead of the...

It could be 10 spline or 29 spline. You won't know for certain until you pull it apart. Are the gears aftermarket? I think Richmond gears are usually 10 spline, but I'm not 100%. If you're changing the yoke, you'll want to replace the crush sleeve with a new one, or an eliminator, unless it...

And neither do most 8.75" rears. Only the 489 cases have the crush sleeves.

I had one out of a 73-76 A Body at one time. They aren't super unusual.

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p924_904_auto__a833_manual_chrome_moly_1350_series_26_spline.html http://www.aandatrans.com/Products/904-Forged-1350-Series-Transmission-Slip-Yoke-with-Quick-Disconnect-Straps__12904-1350.aspx

On a 489 case, you either need to replace the crush sleeve and torque to specs, or replace the crush sleeve with a special spacer and tighten to spec.

Cass can hook you up. www.doctordiff.com. His website is out of date, but go to the contact page and email or call him.

I spent a couple minutes looking, and I didn't find a 1350 to 7260 joint. They are quite different. I wonder if anyone makes one. It could possibly bind?

So, you need a 7260/1350 combo joint?

I was amazed at how well oven cleaner cleaned up a tranny of mine back in the 80s. I doubt oven cleaner is as harsh as it was back then, though.

I wonder about those, myself. I understand that it's good to keep the engine in it's power band, etc, but what about the transmissions themselves? They're like some sort of snowmobile "transmission". A few years ago, they were the wave of the future, and everyone was going to be using them...

I've never had an issue with a stock disc valve.

Te shoe is wider, yes, but the offset is different, too. The distance between the bearing and the wheel flange is different on the small bolt pattern axles than it is for the big bolt axles. Some people make big bolt pattern axles with the A Body offset so that they can reuse the redrilled A...

Look up Doctor Diff. He'll get you what you need. (406) 883-4772 http://www.doctordiff.com/ His name is Cass. He might be able to sell you the gears, too.

I've got a 742 case 2.94 third member with the clutch style suregrip laying around.

Can you support the engine from below with a jack and a block of wood so you don't damage the pan, and remove the engine mounting brackets so that you can actually lower the engine some, to get you more open access to the bolt?

The people that I've know that did this needed to use custom length axles. We switched to big bolt pattern and B Body brakes.

Some people cut them a little shorter than stock, so when they add big bolt shafts that use the B/E body brakes, they end up closer to the normal full rear-end width of the stock A Body axle with its narrower brakes.

Yes, I just measured a couple of housings I had, and they matched that list. The A body is 52 5/8", bare.

I've run his stuff in a few cars. Cass knows his poo.

The fill plug on the back of the cover? It should be a square 3/8" or 1/2" socket extention, shouldn't it? It'll look like an 8 point situation, but a square will fit. That's how the one in my 70 is, anyway. You'll need to pull the cover to drain it, clean it all up well, and use a gasket...

I've been hearing it for years, originally from Greg Moser back in 1991.

I think a 27 spline shaft will be 29.5 mm (1.16") and a 30 spline shaft will be 33.3mm (1.31").