Search results for query: *

I used a large sheet of that cork gasket material and it worked fine. Ten years later during the restoration I still could have re-used it (if I had wanted to).

See thru carb and high speed video.

Just found photos of a recently sold 3854S AFB on Ebay which is pictured with the choke pull-off valve (choke vacuum diaphragm) connected to the port I use for distributor vacuum advance which is on the front of the carb right alongside the passenger side idle mixture screw. My 3854S AFB...

I found what I believe to be a Carter AVS 4966S carb on the hodgepodge 340 I purchased a few years ago (kind of hard to read the model number see photo). Anyway, did a search on the carb number and found fellow forums members believe it to be 625-630 CFM and came on low-performance 1971 440's...

A previous owner replaced the factory gas cap with a push on locking one that is marked "non-vented". Is that the correct application for a '65 Plymouth Signet convertible? Thank you.

Just got my throttle cable wrapped around the drill attachment used to remove rust when I ventured too close. Now I would like to verify that two-barrel and four-barrel cables are identical so I don't purchase the wrong item. Thank you!

Dad had a IH TD-6 (1940's edition) that had a hand crank and a Ford wheel tractor from the 1950's.

I thought only BBodies had that clip, thank you.

Before re-installing the fuel tank that was purchased ten years ago (and painted a RustOleum John Deere green) I performed an inspection and test. The paint held up well. The new tank had an oily film when it was shipped. I was surprised the paint adhered so well, I must have worked had...

I started to gather the gas tank stuff for the '65 Formula S and then clean things up. I grabbed a large diameter filler pipe and tried to stuff the smaller diameter pipe inside (silly me). I was soon to find out they don't belong together. The large pipe must have been in among some of the...

We have come full-circle, previous owner omitted factory vacuum choke-pull off. That would explain the plugged port on the back of the carb!

I found and reamed out 3 old insulators and one reproduction for the larger 8 mm wire. The reproduction does not snap in nice and tight to the valve cover bracket like the three factory originals. The PCV is on the "wrong" side, but since I use it as kind of a wire separator, I'm going to keep...

OK, it's just the fast idle setting that keeps it going, forgot about that aspect.

I understand a choke pull off keeps the engine from running too rich at initial cold start-up. So I was wondering how a '65 carb without a choke pull off can do the same thing, or can it? Thank you.

The link in post #14 from Dan is working for me now, thank you.

Has anyone found the carbsonly website Dan recommended for electric choke purchase, my search shows page not found? I did find a mikes carb youtube video, not sure if the parts are the same:

It looks like a wire goes to the electric choke, you might want to check voltage there to make sure it is correctly wired and functions.

Are we talking about "well plug o-rings"? Ninja sent me an email and they are asking me that. Thank you.

FYI: I just watched a video yesterday where the carb rebuilder said that soaking the carb in carb cleaner and compressed air may not clean out the idle passages, thus many "failed" rebuilds. He suggested busting off one wire from a wire brush to use to "ramrod" clean out those tiny passages by hand.

I will someday install a factory 340 intake manifold and 340 Thermoquad on my Mopar two-barrel small block. I find I have purchased (on-line) installation fasteners for the thermoquad, one package has bolts, another has threaded studs. Is there any rule of thumb the factory used when installing...

Are they discontinued or might their be a superceded part number? Thank you.

I thought "dry" meant mounted on dash with no risk of fuel leaking into the cabin, but the article describes "wet" as oil filled and "dry" as without fill: Fuel Pressure Gauges: Liquid Filled vs. Dry

I read where cfm ratings are calculated using different criteria for two-barrel and four-barrel carbs. I wonder is that because it is assumed that the two barrel flows at a higher velocity because of the smaller cross section? Thank you.

Granted, the testing may be flawed, I think they found data they already had decided to prove a point with. Let's see some quarter mile ET's regular vs premium.

Just for us, they should have included a carb/non-computer controlled vehicle as well:

This video may answer the question:

Could be anything, in my case it was the old float (brass) began to take on gasoline and would not float correctly any more.

i installed a Holley 600 CFM Double Pumper back in the day. First time I tried a full throttle run down a country road from a stop, the engine shut down without warning. I was worried until I found the choke plate had closed on its own (the choke was not hooked up to anything). I removed the...

Just curious. I would prefer having a manual choke if I had the choice. The fast idle often does not kick off soon enough for my preference.

Some of the Mopar under hood factory tune-up decals recommend a lower idle speed for the first 300 miles during break-in. I wonder why?