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Turbo Action. These guys deal with mopars ! Call them and tell them your engine, cars weight, gearing etc. etc. and they will build you a converter that works. Don't waste your money on those cheap off the shelf converters.

Is your 340 a forged, or cast crank? That determines if you need a weighted converter or not.

year one, or classic industries, or a host of other suppliers. I know year-one had a chart in their older catalouges to help you deterimine which speedo. gear to buy, depending on gear ratio, tire size, etc.

I run a pro stick in my duster, but with forward pattern. The reverse lockout is a bit of a pain on the street, so I drilled and install a pin I made to dis-able it, and when I go to the drag strip I'll just simply pull the pin out and reverse lockout is fully functional. If you do this, you...

maybe this will help some....Rani, I think you will find that if your going from a 904 to a b body 4 speed, you will also need to shorten the drive shaft 4 inches.

I just went from a 4 speed to a 727, and the drive shaft is 4 inches shorter for the 727.

it's very close, to where the pattern should be.

yup 904

ya gear vendors makes a bolt on unit to give you an overdrive, but it's not cheap....

it does not matter what engine you have, because a 727 trans mount is in the same place on a big block or small block 727, so you need a drive shaft for a Valiant with an 8 3/4 rear. My duster has a 727 and an 8 3/4 rear and the drive shaft is 44.9 inches from center to center of u-joint. I...

Have one custom built for your combo, from a place like Turbo Action or ATI. it may cost a little more but you will be happier in the end. Those off the shelf converters, like B&M don't always do what there advertised to do ( stall wise). Just my opinion though...

there are two different splines....course spline, and fine spline, and of course there is the small yoke and the large yoke. Both large and small yokes can have either the course or fine spline. I don't think you can really tell without removing the yokes.

I would say your going to want to be around 2800 to 3000 stall for that combo, ( as its very simular to mine which is also a street strip car with 4:30 gears), and still have it liveable on the street. The best thing to do though is contact a good converter builder such as turbo action, or ATI...

I think you can get one from " Randy's ring and Pinion" ..........just google it

Yes a 727 will fit in your car just fine, as barracudas came with 727s ( 340 automatic equipped cars) your trans guy is correct the 727 is a beefier unit, but a 904 can be built to be strong as well, but it will cost a little more, as 904 have smaller weaker stock shafts and can break and...

have you tried "six pack performance" ? I bought some peices from them several years ago.

I would not use copper...it does not take vibration very well, and will eventually fatigue and crack ( usally near the fittings) and is not meant for higher PSI applications.

you could use an 8-1/4 rear, and it will be fine on a mild built 360.....

Ya I'm sure the Cheeta works fine, but I'm very paticular how things look on my vehicles, that all.

I was trying to decied the same thing....what shifter to use, and I agree the cheeta shifter looks cheesy to me. I'v narrowed it down to the B&M pro stick, as I like how you can change the gate plate if you want to. My second choice would have been the hurst quarter stick, which is very simular...

Thats the same kit I like to use in my torqueflites....I also use a 3.8 lever, and a nice deep pan.

They should never turn hard.... sounds like its worn, possibly carrier or pinion bearings, need replaced.

Ya, I'v seen different length yokes as well, and your right, as long as you leave some room for travel, for the slip yoke to move, you would be ok, but to simply use a longer than factory specified drive shaft, to make up for a shorter yoke is a bad idea.

Now think about that....if your using an incorrect slip-yoke (to short), that simply means that yoke is not on as much spline on the tailshaft. Buy using a slightly longer drive shaft, ( like your suggesting) to try and compensate, is not the proper way to correct this, as your making the yoke...

The proper drive shaft length for a duster with a 727 and an 8 3/4 rear would be 45 inches center to center of the u-joints.

well I paid 200.00 last year for a housing and axels, no center chunk, and it was only an hour away from me so I went and picked it up. I'm guessing that was a good deal by what I see the prices are on ebay.....

PM sent

is there a throttle pressure rod/cable hooked up on it?

How far do you drive the car? how often? 3:55s are a good all around gear, 3:91s would make the car a little quicker at the track. I'd say either one of those is a good choice.

hmmmm...never heard of him, Here in New England if you want a good trans builder we go to L J torqueflite specialites.