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I think the 7 1/4 rears mount the tee with a solid brass bolt. It may be the same thread pattern. BTW too much venting is not going to hurt you unless you are trying to use a "closed" system like on later models

On most 8 3/4 rears that is a hollow vented bolt. Mopar Roadrunner Charger GTX Super Bee Rear Axle Vent Bolt Breather Brake Hose | eBay You can probably get it used from someone here cheaper

To answer your original question: If you still want power brakes, get a 73-76 A body with power brakes. All of the parts from the booster, the brackets, linkage and master cylinder will be a bolt on swap.

I sell a lot of those pushrods. I just heat the aluminum piston from the master cylinder until it melts or pops out.

here's pics of the last set I had: [SOLD] - 67-76 A body Power Brake Swivel $25

I've had several of them but I'm out.. they come on every power brake setup on 73-76 A bodies. I'm certain an FABO member can fix you up with one

The POWER disc linkage doesn't use a pushrod. It uses a swivel linkage setup. The one on the 73-76 will work just fine if you use the corresponding booster.

Thanks Steve! Good luck with the project and welcome to FABO!

This is now a live auction. Thanks! Mopar 67-76 A Body Manual Brake Pedal Pushrod & Bolt

I'll pull one tomorrow. The end is a ball fit that "pops in" to the nylon plunger in the master cylinder. I read somewhere that you need a disc brake master cylinder, but I am not certain. The rod is the same on all manual brake A bodies from the mid 60's to 76

I sell used ones cleaned and painted for $25 plus $6 for the ride. This is an old auction but it has the picture. I have one more on a parts car that I can pull and clean if you want it. Mopar 67-76 A Body Manual Brake Pedal Pushrod & Bolt | eBay

Pretty sure the booster bracket is the same on my car. Just not sure what the two braces are on the right side of your photo. The braces support the booster on the engine side. I was selling them as a package. Please disregard them for the purposes of this discussion.

Power brake cars use a swivel arrangement rather than one rod

Are you absolutely certain that the master cylinder was ordered for disc brakes? They are different and the drum brake master cylinder would cause the problems that you describe.

x2 on the 73-76 A body disc hose. That looks like it.

If they are B body then you will need the newer big ball joint upper control arms.

I've been getting $100 for the 10 inch drum spindles. Wildwood has a disc brake setup that uses the 10 inch a body spindle as the base for the conversion and people are always looking for the spindles.

To summarize and simplify what's been said here: Stock A body axles use stock a body backing plates & drums. The axles have a different offset (distance from the backing plate to the end of the hub) and the backing plates have to match that. B/C/E/F/J body and trucks use the more common axle...

The manual brakes use a straight rod from the pedal to the master cylinder. The power brakes use the same pedal but a "swivel linkage" to activate the brakes.

Sometimes the rubber lines develop internal blockages which do not allow the fluid to drain off after they are pressurized, resulting in the brakes continuing to be partially applied after you take your foot off the pedal. If they seem old and brittle you might want to replace them.

X2 on new shoes and no grooves or lips in the drums. The rubber brake line from the rear to the body can go bad and have an intermittent blockage, not allowing the brake fluid to return. I would think that it would affect both brakes, but fluid dynamics can be funny sometimes. Also, did you...

The SBP axles had a different offset than the BBP axles. The backing plates have an offset to match the axle offset. So if you use SBP axles (even redrilled) you have to use SBP backing plates. You will have to find a set of SBP drums and redrill them to BBP and use them with the correct offset...

How hard would it be to find a rear end with the sbp? Just about every 6 cyl A body made before 72 had SBP 7.25 rears. I scrap 3 or 4 a year. I'll have one here in Savannah soon. Count the bolts on the cover of your rear . if there are 9 you have a 7.25. If there are 10 it's an 8.25. As has...

I don't know if you have a 7.25 rear but you could get a sbp 7.25 rear for next to nothing and run sbp on the back

The 8 3/4 rear was also offered on all packages too. I recently took in a 72 225 slant 6 4 door Valiant with a 3 speed stick and 8 3/4 posi with 323 gears. it was all original.

A lot of guys (myself included) buy the 4 door parts cars for the disc brake setup and scrap the rest. As noted above, all of the 73 up a bodies with disc brakes will have a big bolt pattern rear even if it's 7 1/4. A 7 1/4 rear of ANY ilk is not a big seller, so I've scrapped several. You...

I have a set of 11 inch on a C body. I haven't pulled the drums yet. It's possible that they are good also.

You need to change the A body backing plates to a B/C/E body (or truck)backing plate and drums. You can use the 10 inch or the 11 inch. The factory SBP axles have a different offset which is matched by the backing plate. The Moser and most aftermarkets use the B/C/E body offset. Only...

You can get that stuff used much cheaper than Year One. I regularly sell the 67-72 proportioning valve for $25 cleaned and clear coated. (I'm out of them right now, but every parts car I get has one)

Ok..to reiterate and simplify what's been said: A BODY AXLES HAVE TO HAVE A BODY BACKING PLATES!!! The stock a body axle had a different offset than other rears. Even if you redrill to BBP, you have to use A body backing plates and redrilled drums! Otherwise the drums will hit the backing...