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buy a core motor. you'll go crazy trying to find all the little pieces. brackets, clip and correct BOLTS.

ok. it took me a while to find it but I had a FB post saved about these heads. supposedly KG engines in Kansas, Ohio has a CNC program for these heads. 419-806-5870, 419-986-5117, 1-866-986-5115.

i went with these because they were the step up from max .500 lift springs. with my .508 cam i didnt want to take a chance with coil bind or maxing out the springs and having premature failure.

used stock replacements for a '69 340.

should get my adjustable rocker set tomorrow. ordered a PRW stainless steel set. need to get it on then measure for the pushrods.

it sounds like a solid lifter cam.

guess I am going to bite the bullet and swap to an adjustable setup. have to wait till I get it to measure for the pushrods.

the thread was started by a guy who didn't know. all I did was point him to a site where all the info was compiled into one spot where the explanation is without sarcasm for not knowing better. he's asking questions, so he wants to learn. we are here to further the hobby and share information...

Magnumswap.com - Your source for Dodge Magnum and Mopar engine swap tech. really good website with alot of magnum related info for head swap and whole motor installs.

block and heads haven't been cut so didn't think of preload.

non adjustable the HD MP ones. thicker than stock with new shafts.

1969 dated 340 fresh rebuild. 508 lift 292 duration purple shaft cam with matching lifters. P3412068 dual valve springs good to 620 lift. removed inner springs and started motor to break in cam. (oil with break-in additive used) immediately brought RPM up to 3000 and varied down to 2000 RPM and...

just slowly rotate over the engine as you prime. 2 revolutions to come back to TDC #1. this will prime all passages.

i would just pressure test the water jacket. use the biggest drill bit not to get into the valve seat and drill down to the bottom of the void and weld it. clean it up with a long file and not look back. out a little time and alot fewer dollars. they really milled the poop out of those heads...

just because the block is a '70 block doesn't mean a thing i've been to machine shops and professional motor building shops where they have racks of cranks. they buy cores, split them up and part them out. they could have got in the motor and swapped the crank with another instead of messing...

340? cast or steel crank? internal or externally balanced? start with casting #'s on block ( date code ) i have seen the inner hub spin in the balancer. is it really strange when you check the timing? ok stupid question time have you doubled checked the plug wires to make sure you don't have one...

found a guy who regrinds roller cams for about 110$ my question is how much will the stock lifters take as far as lift. i'm looking at a street engine so less than .500 lift with 1.5 rockers is a given. just thinking about a cheap roller motor that would be fun to drive.

why not? big cam= low or erratic vacuum signal at lower rpm's

what about the roller motors that came out in the late 80's and early 90's roller hyd cams and spider type lifter retention. i've always wondered what would be the max that they would take.

there's no replacement for dislpacement! you get free power just from the differences in c.i. between 318 and a 360. might take more effort to find a 360 but the price difference is small. parts are generic until pan,crank, or pistons. reuse oil pan, grind crank, and pistons are a little more...

pass side = dipstick tube adjustment, don't know about filter adapter. driverside = mini starter is a big help, and running pipe around linkage.