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I have the 6al-2 and I use the first stage wired in combination with my line lock, set at 3000rpms. Allows me to set the linelock, push the accelerator to the floor with out pushing thru the linelock and release it when I want to launch. I am running a 4500 stall converter. As previously...

I love Mopars but the worst designed part they ever installed on an a body was the bulkhead connector. I'm constantly loosing connections, tightening connections! Does anyone make a suitable replacement? Help!

My speedo is electric, which required in stalling a transducer on the transmisson, pretty easy to do.

Heres a couple more pics. I kept the cast part of the dash cluster, and used a band saw to remove the rear back of it so I still maintained some structual integrity. The gauges on the right were mounted with off set gauge spacers on a piece of aluminumn I fabed and attached to the face of the dash.

I put the fuel gauge in the center, attached are a couple pics of my converted ralley dash.

Something to try, I had a similar problem. Hit the key, nothing. There is one wire that runs thru the bulk head connector that I bumped and every thing went dead. Try holding the key in the start pos and reach under the dash and wiggle the group of wires going thru the bulkhead. Worth a try...

You should be able to replace it without removing the dash. Just plugs into the back of the instrument cluster.

If you go with a MSD distributor,coil, and control box, the things you mentioned like the box and the ballast resitor go away. All the MSD parts plug together and to a single power source and a ground.

bump

I have a 12.5 to 1 comp 440 with full MSD and eddy heads. I just installed new plugs (a real pain in the a$$) and set the gap at .045 is that gap ok? Engine now seem to run very rough until it warms up. Any input.

Duster383 the set of gauges with the trans sender cost close to $700. I plan to mount the tach and speedo in the factory bezel and the gauges in a line on the dash panel where normally you would see the heater controls, since I have deleted the heater.

Maybe some one else could jump in here, but I think if the gauge and sending unit ohms didnt match, you would still get readings but they would not be accuate.

Your right full is full. Provided you purchased the right ohm gauge to match your sending unit. They make like 4 different gauges. If your sure they match I would make sure you have a good ground on the tank and sending unit.

The store I went to was near Akron, OH. As for the fuel gauge I had to purchase a new fuel cell as well, one with a sending unit, so I think the hardest problem is going to be getting these all mounted in the dash. And yes they are all back lit. Speedo is also electric, so I had to get a send...

I took a 2 hour drive (1 way) today to exchange some gauges I purchased from Summit. If you ever get a chance to go into one of their outlet do it. WHAT a candy store for gearheads. Can you picture 20 plus intakes, half dozen blowers, 40 carbs, 20 different nitrous systems, and the list goes on...

My bad see your running a 318. Man its terrible to get old, first thing to goes the eyes. Try a spot on the firewall.

You didnt say if you have a big or small block. Thats the coil I'm using on my big block,you can see in the photo where I mounted it.

Forgot to mention, if after doing what I suggested and gauge works, before you condem the tank sending unit make sure you have a good ground to the tank and sending unit. Ive seen many gauges not work because the ground at the tank unit was faulty.

Fuel gauge: unhook the wire at the tank, use a jumper wire and ground the wire, with ignition on the gauge should read FULL, if not problem is in wiring between gauge or the gauge. Same thing to do with temp gauge.

mullinax95 that exactly what I'm wanting to do, 68 Rat Rod your dash is way cool, but I'm in no way capable of the aluminum work I see you've done. Almost looks like one of those Rockymountian dashes.

I'm thinking of removing the factory speedo and guage cluster in my 67 Barracuda and replacing them with a 5" electric speedo and tach from Auto meter using the existing bezel. Has anyone done this and if so how about a picture or two and a brief discription of what you had to do? Also thought...

I mounted the battery cable ground to the trunk floor making sure it was to bare metal. The engine ground I ran from one of the motor mount to engine bolts and then to the frame rail.

If the lights come on but dont blink, try a new flasher

Thanks guys, This site you all are great!!

anybody with insite on this?

I had a MSD 6AL ignition box that died, I bought a 6AL-2 with dual rev control. My question is this, if I set the rev limit at lets say 6000rpms, will the engine rev normally to that 6000rpms and then just flatten, or does the limiter roll into that 6000rpms say starting around lets say 5700...

If you look at the switch where the key goes in you will see a ring around it with little square notches all around. Use those notches to turn the ring counter clock wise to remove it. Once the ring is off the switch just slides out the back of the dash. I have found a snap ring pliers works...

One more thing to try, pull the dist cap and rotor off the distributor. Make sure the points are closed, turn the key on and manually open the points with a screw driver, you should see the point arc. If you dont, fold a piece of sand paper over and insert it between the point contacts and sand...

Ok all you wiring geniusis, and I know your out there, I've seen your posts with wiring diagrams and all, HELP! My MSD 6AL took a dump and I'm installing a 6AL2. I want the lower rev stage to work with my line lock for converter loading, you know tie it into the line lock switch. But I dont want...

Just a guess but from the type of end on it check and see if it might connect to the amp guage on the back of the instrument panel. KO