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[FOR SALE] - Complete 67 273 HP Engine & 904 trans

I have a '64 Fury, 318 poly, TTI headers. Engine runs fantastic, just a 2 barrel, spark plug placement is ideal, headers fit very well, except one bolt on the driver's side is near impossible to get to. I say go for it, different is more better.

Chrysler red, not spray paint. Same engine, same day, taken within a minute of each other. Orange, red, or both?

I have a poly 2 barrel with headers. Great on gas. Best part, spark plugs are easily accessible, but it runs so well I can't see myself pulling plugs.

I have bolts through both my mounts. Driver's side has plenty of room, original bb car, here is a reference: Best Place to Buy Motor Mounts For my 383 Formula S. I'm sure the countersunk bolt head helps. I used the same method for the passenger side, iirc the only issue was I had to shave off...

Buy standard rubber, drill a hole through it and the steel mounts, stick a bolt through it, screw a lock nut down right before it's tight, done. A number of members have done this, some use a flat head countersunk bolt.

Imo, do not use poly-loc engine mounts. I've stated it many times, poor design, each side within the poly can easily slide past each other, that's why some versions have external braces built into each side. Braces or not, torque strap or not, the poly gets pummeled, destroyed inside and...

Thoughts on adding a regulator and a return line. My understanding is you can set the psi where you want it and it helps keep fuel cool under the hood.

Bent

First set bought in March of 2012, I know I got another set in 2014 and bought their brackets with rubber mounts in Jan of 2018. So somewhere in there they sent me a 3rd set of poly locs. Timeframes were dictated by availability, whether in stock or not, r&r, heat shields, weather, etc. I never...

Got them directly from Schumacher. Their customer service was very good, replaced them twice, so three sets. They asked me to build a heat shield, done, two different versions, but also agreed one should not be needed at all, especially on the driver's side. They wanted a torque strap installed...

Mine is a 4 speed, but I don't do burnouts or drive like a jackass. When I pulled mine the mounts didn't budge or move. The engine was slanted to one side, and when installed the mounts looked screwed up, as in pics.

Here's mount #2, same side, same result. Bought the powder coated brackets with rubber mounts and the passenger bracket bent within 23 seconds. Went back to stock, real steel, brackets, with a bolt drilled through each side and a loose lock nut.

Poly mounts are garbage, inherent in the design. They slide apart. The two metal sides within the poly that don't touch are vertical, so when the engine torques they slide apart. Went through a few sets under warranty, built heat shields, chain on engine, etc. They're just designed wrong. Check...

Ditto on the Wagner. I noticed my engine isn't pushing oil out all over the place anymore as well. It used to right at the pcv and annoy the heck out of me. I realized that I spent all my hard earned $ on fancy this, and expensive that, then continued to buy cheap pcvs and wondered where was...

Baffles? We don't need no stinking baffles!

Rebuilt the 2 barrel carb on my 318, kit had a new base gasket so I was very happy as I had to make one at first. After a few weeks, milky oil, oil pushing out of dipstick at regular intervals, wth? Ran a little crappy too. New base gasket was not cut out in center where the pcv port came into...

PCVs work but they also can suck. The one on my stock 318 works well, the one on my mild bb sucked. I went with that wagner one, yes more expensive than the parts store one but it has worked extremely well. I'm no expert on pcvs, but I spent some coin on everything else, and the parts store pcv...

I run a TR for years on a 383 4 speed. First with 390 vacuum secondaries, always ran rich, but ran very well with a slight hesitation at initial throttle. Switched to 600s, ran better and seemed faster. Switched to dual quad FiTech, very happy with how tunable it is from the driver's seat. It...

Here's one to get everyone going, I had NGK plugs in my 67 when I changed the intake manifold and because I am a dummy, or the stupid high rise doesn't allow any tool whatsoever to get on the bolts to tighten them, take your pick, oil got into the rear cylinders and fouled the plugs. Once I...

Minor improvement:

I heard in some cases it works so well, it causes leaks- removes all of the crud that was built up and the gaskets/seals fail.

I hear this alot from Duster guys. Maybe they are screwing with you. Start pulling up to Novas and telling them "That's one awesome Duster man!" The way I see it there are plenty of morons out there, but most just genuinely like the old cars. Unfortunately all they know is 454, or Nova.

Yeah, get rid of it. I put an Accel distributor in mine and took the ballast resistor and took the guts out of it, put a wire in it with a connector on each side and hooked the same wires back to it. It still looks like the ballast resistor.

The latest I was asked, "Is that the Windsor engine?"

Casting numbers are, well, cast into the block. And many times blocks are cast well before the car and engine are assembled, and don't forget 68s actually came out in late 67, same as today's new cars. My block was cast in January, and the assembly stamp is May. I believe VINs are stamped in...

Also, from my experience if there is no pcv you may get some engine odors in the car.

Is there a 7 under the F on the fender tag? on the drivers side: 2806030 appears to be a 318 casting. Could it be 2658920? I'm not sure what the - 273 - 2 are. 10-13-66 clock at midnight/ noon: that is the casting date/time, (time is really the shift I think). C273 is year displacement...

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=69983

I am not sure if this is relevant, but are the bolts chrome? Over the years I've tossed many bolts and parts due to the chrome, could never get it to seal.