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At this point, I can't tell if my old rotors are the machined type or the same as the new C-Tek rotors. I'll have to compare them to my old old rotors. If I am running the machined rotors now, and those are the rotors I took a grinder to, it was fairly easy and there is no negative impacts...

Summit, more than 10 available, $29.99 each. Centric Parts 121.63005 Centric C-Tek Standard Brake Rotors | Summit Racing

I bought a few a year or two ago.

Another pic. I recall cleaning up the entire hat because it either rubbed a seal slightly in a spot or two, and/or that's how my brain works and I went overboard, thought any rustacles that develop in the future could/would rub my new seals, or at some point in the pad wear it may, might, could...

Before/After. It's not even the visible ridge that is the issue, it's right above that. If left alone, as the rotor hat is tapered, it only rubs the caliper seals when the pads are worn down.

I just hit it with a grinder to take off the excess casting that rubs the caliper piston seals. It was such a small amount, took all of a minute, no negative impacts.

Fwiw I use a 1.032 in. bore on manual brakes, stops perfectly.

New mc installed, bled the brakes completely until ran with new fluid. Rears bled fine, front right was a bunch of foamy fluid for a while, but after that the pedal came back to normal and the front left was normal. Also, both front right caliper bolts were loose, and the front left caliper was...

I have a new mc in stock, so I'll try that, bleed everything. Thank you fabo!

Pedal travel does not appear to have changed. Both really, the pedal always felt like it was pushing the fluid, but I could put the pedal down farther and it would slow down more as I went. Now the pedal is the same all the way with no stopping power at all until the very end, and it still will...

I've been driving this car with no issue for years. Rebuilt years ago, stock sbp manual KH disc, rear drum, proportioning valve, I did upgrade to a newer style master cylinder, and a few years ago I rebuilt the calipers again for the heck of it. Brake pedal has always been firm at the top, and...

I'm betting if you order them from Classic an email will follow stating they're backordered.

My KH bolts matched the brackets: [WANTED] - 1 Kelsey Hayes Caliper Bolt

Yup, I have a similar kit to bleed the mc, should work no problemo.

I heard you could not do this as the pedal rod may not fully seat inside the mc. I have no idea if this is accurate, but I need to bleed a completely new brake system and I'm reading all kinds of opinions, from bench bleed out of the car, in the car, open all calipers/cylinders and let gravity...

That Dorman should bolt right up. When I replaced mine, iirc, I looked up a 76 master as it was what was in stock at the time. Looks identical, bolts in no problem, factory KH manual discs.

Sweet 67 S! 4 speed? I must say, I don't have a dog in this fight, but when I first did KH brakes I brought the hub/rotor to a mechanic friend to separate as I had no clue at the time. He tried to press apart, using an actual press, and they wouldn't come out. He ended up cutting the studs off...

Brackets are different side to side. Pic of my brackets off with the corresponding side is the best I have at the moment: '67 Fry Fix No washer on mine, my brackets have a raised groove, and the bolt has an inset groove under the head. '67 Fry Fix

Getting back to our regularly scheduled program, any input on whether the tapered axle 65 drum swap method could be modified and applied to KH?

Agree on the method. Borrowed tool from an older mopar fanatic who schooled me, many times. Can't explain it, shoes were loose, brakes free beforehand. I searched for an aftermath pic, as I took many, unable to find one. One side on my 62 took slightly more effort, but no big deal.

I've used that on 2 cars, a 62 and a 64. One side of my 64 the drum was destroyed, it would not come off, puller, heat, bfh, nothing worked. Someone suggested I put it back together with the nut loose and drive around. I wouldn't do that, but it didn't run at the time and the drum was already...

I have a 64 Fury with the tapered axle. The wheel studs are pressed through the back of the hub and brake drum, and it is attached to the axle with one nut. To r&r the rear brakes, one has to pull the entire hub/drum assembly off. Although the bolt comes off with ease, getting the hub off the...

DMT lists 2 backing plate gaskets, both round, both with the same spindle/drum pic. Both listed as having different size spindle holes, but outer diameter is not listed. Original is that odd shape above. I noticed on my spindle the surface shows circles from the machining process, as well as...

If anyone ever pinched the front soft lines to swap a caliper and/or prevent fluid from draining, the hoses will be collapsed inside but still look fine on the outside. It will act like a check valve and prevent the calipers from releasing. Ask me how I know, and you'll know you don't have to ask.

I replaced mine 10 years ago and it seeped fluid all around for weeks. Sanded as described, learned that from fabo, zero fluid has leaked out, zip, nadda.

Take master off, take cover and gasket off, take a flat surface, like a flat piece of sheet metal, put a piece of sandpaper on it, flip mc over and sand until it's flat, then sand some more.

On a flat surface, metal table top or sheet of steel, lay sandpaper down face up. Take master off, flip over, rub over sandpaper like it's your job. When you think it's enough, do it some more. Mine leaked day 1, day 2 until 11 years later not a drop.

I have a non a-body, 64 Fury, with power drum brakes. No one carries a power booster for a 64, a 65 yes. 64: CARDONE 503547 65: CARDONE 5473546 Anyone know if a 65 will interchange with a 64? Are the brakes difficult if the booster does not work? This car needs to move to a friend's to get...

Does this information apply to power brakes as well?

Jim's Auto Parts and Peps Parts on eBag lists the struts with springs. I have been unable to find a pic or diagram that shows how the cable attaches to the brakes, and how the struts are placed. Peps ad: This is a set of parking brake strut levers for 1965-72 A-body applications with 10"...