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Little if any... The angle of the impellers is the same only the reinforcement is different.

As stated slants are pretty hard to kill and often tossed aside for the V-8 swaps. Scan CL and also post up in parts wanted and I bet you will get some hits..... A good used slant usually only needs a set of valve stem seals, timing chain and some TLC to be a good driver.

5/16 NC in the manifold side and the carb side are 5/16 NF. Sometimes the manifold gets stripped out and a dual size stud is used, usually a 3/8 NC to 5/16 NF. Bolts are also an option but wear the manifold threads prematurely.

Any moisture in the distributor cap or rotor phasing a little off perhaps? Also low voltage to ignition will cause that. Try running a hot wire to coil + and see if it changes anything.

Fuel starvation or really bad fuel?

Either a magnet or the flex fingers.....

On another note, one cause of overheating on a slant is too much vacuum advance at cruise. If your total timing is exceeding 45 degrees at part throttle cruise (maybe less on non EGR applications) you can have heating issues.

Really? All the clowns we have on this site and nobody pops up and says, "Here I am!" :lol:

My 66 polys used the type shown and they are listed as 64-69 for "some" applications so I wasn't sure in the early slant. I was thinking if a chrome aftermarket cover was used it may not have the baffle box....

Original valve cover?

A picture would sure help. I know what the original 66 setup is supposed to look like but am having a hard time envisioning what you are using.

Looks like Moon backed out of the idea. Probably better to get a 4bbl intake.

I have not seen a 1bbl TBI but check out the Stromberg 97 type TBI clones. Something like that could work on a Super Six intake.

I made the bracket and welded it to the other side of the carb's throttle shaft. Used an inverted natural gas carb adapter with countersunk holes on the manifold side. Was even able to use the stock choke-stat. Kick down linkage stays in place with no clip.

I have seen new coils bad out of the box..... Tried the old one again?

Advance the timing..... Reset carb adjustments.

That should be fairly common to a lot of slant engines. Any salvage yards close by? A side by side comparison should tell you what you want to know.

If you don't try the dual carb setup you will always wonder what it would do. Give it a shot. Well matched CFM provides better driveability than over carbed and then there is the cool factor of dual carbs.

Check the EFE valve under the intake (flap type valve on the exhaust) make sure it isn't stuck if equipped. Sounds like you are boiling the fuel in the carb and supply line to the carb. Make sure you have the fairly thick insulator gasket between the carb and intake, you may also slide a section...

A quote from BBBCUDA in a different thread. "Well, for a brief moment, I'll try to stick to the origional question. Cheapest way, 1: gears. Slants come with lousy gears for acceleration, 2.94's in the ones I had. If you are really cheap, (like me), a 60's International Scout (model 80) has...

Oil sending unit will not affect the no start issue. Even the best engine must have oil and oil pressure to survive. You may have a loose cable somewhere besides the battery posts. Either at the starter or starter relay or a bad engine or chassis ground.

The oil pressure gauge install kit will have a fitting to screw in where the switch is now. If you want both you can also get a "T" fitting to do that. Get a 3 gauge bracket to go where the two are now....

If you are in the lower range of comfortable pressure readings then I would get thicker oil or bump the idle a little.

Is it possible you have a restriction in the exhaust? Something loose in the muffler that may be blocking flow?

Since 3 and six are sequential in the firing order the possibility of the exhaust not opening (or opening very little) on 3 and polluting the intake charge on 6 could explain this.

You may have to bump up your timing a bit to give it some help....

I wonder if you are getting a voltage drop through the bulkhead connector in the ignition circuit. Might try hot wiring the coil to the battery and test drive it. Is your coil an E core setup for straight 12 volts?

Plus the timing advance increases RPM so you can close the throttle plate more which is often the main cure for run on.

That slant should gain more pep with around 10-12 degrees timing.