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I had mine recored by a local radiator shop. You get nice new straight fins and fresh paint that way, but it isn't necessarily cheap. Oh, and tell them NOT to put the order number on it with yellow paint pen... LOL.

2 inches is "too far" to be effective. 1/2" is "too close" — you won't be able to get the bolts in and it may contact the radiator when the engine mounts flex. I think somewhere around 3/4" to 1" is the sweet spot. BTW, it looks to me that you really can't move that particular fan any closer to...

Note that using a lower temperature thermostat does absolutely nothing to cool the engine in high ambient temperature conditions. All it does is open the thermostat earlier. After that it is up to the fan or road speed to keep the temperature under control. Combustion is more efficient at...

Yeah, 3/4" seems like a sweet spot. 5/8" is good if you can get the bolts in. 1" is fine. When I see more gap than that I start looking for a spacer. Installing the clutch fans is easy compared to a standard fan with spacer because the bolts are way in the back, behind the blades, with plenty...

The 4 blade fan is a "fuel economy" special. Low blade pitch, doesn't move a lot of air. A/C and HD models got more blades, but the effect was mostly from the higher blade pitch. You probably can't detect the noise difference on the highway, but they will be noisier at idle. As you would expect...

On my 67s there were clips at the top end. They clipped around the edge of the hose and just kind of dug into the plastic and made them harder to pull off. They don't fit at all on the replacement ducts you can buy now — the rubber is too thick.

I just had a 2-core factory radiator recored as a 3-row for my 67 fastback. No clearance problems with a clutch fan. Cost was ...well, a lot.

Depends on the pitch of the blades, temperature range of the clutch thermostat, diameter, blade count, all sorts of factors. Usually the flex fans have a more aggressive pitch, meaning they move more air at low engine speeds, then they flatten out at high engine speeds. Note that engine speed...

The fact that it has one of those thermostatic spring coils on the front makes me think it's thermal...

The 19" radiator should be fine with a good fan (I just added a Texas Twister flex fan and that keeps the temp dead stable). It's probably partly clogged. To me, it would be simpler to have it tested and cored than to solve the swap problem, but it's your choice.

It shouldn't be that hard to find the correct fan, if that flex fan turns out not to fit. But the standard 4-blade base fan would probably not be as effective.

Impossible to say, but note that by running without a hood, the fan is not necessarily effective at pulling air through the radiator — the air can much more easily just go over the top. The hood will tend to trap ambient heat, so the question is can the water pump and radiator remove heat fast...

Usually, the only bad part of the radiator is the core. Recoring keeps your top and bottom tanks so the hoses line up, and your outer frame so the bolts line up. I see very little point in ever buying a "new" radiator, if you have any choice in the matter. Even if you feel you need an upgrade...

Incomplete combustion may affect O2 in the exhaust, but that is not measuring rich or lean. Rich or lean refers to the mixture in the cylinder at the time of combustion, which is entirely controlled by the fuel system. The composition of the exhaust gases is only an indicator of this. Based on...

You said you adjusted the ignition from "very rich to lean" -- that doesn't make sense. The ignition controls advance and retard -- the carburetor controls rich to lean. So what exactly did you adjust? Both extreme advance and extreme retard conditions can cause overheating, for different...

Is your scoop connected to a sealed air cleaner (like the 6 Pack hood)? I'm guessing it's not, or you wouldn't be asking. I really don't think the opening in the scoop is large enough to create enough positive pressure to offset the much larger radiator opening. Plus, the hood is a low pressure...

IIRC it looks like a 6x9 speaker grill. Unless somebody re pops it, I'm afraid that could be tough to find.

I can't see why it wouldn't. The radiators didn't change size.

Someone else was just telling me about an aluminum radiator that sat too high and he couldn't close the hood. Wound up drilling new mounting holes to drop it down a bit.

I really doubt that they had a fan shroud. They were never intended for street use, and there would not be a production part available for an A-body Hemi fan shroud. Not to mention they were totally stripped down for light weight.

195 is more thermodynamically efficient than 160 or 180. Many cars won't maintain 160, anyway, so it's the same as running without a thermostat -- it would be wide open all the time in the summer. Timing definitely can affect the running temp, as does low oil level. The solid fan will pull more...

I can recall kludging up some kind of fix. But that was 25 years ago, and I haven't looked at it since. So all I can say is, it's doable. In the picture above, it doesn't look like the plastic broke -- it looks like the cable end broke. On mine it was the plastic stud part of the circular...

Yes. 1967 273 AC in CA: 17" 7-blade thermal clutch PN 2658973 But most clutch fans were 18" or larger.

.44 is less than a half-inch -- why even bother with a spacer at that point? Seems dubious to me.

It's hard to say if it will be adequate for your stroker, but it's probably worth trying. The idea of the clutch fan is that the fan spins slower than the pulley is turning. This means it moves less air at high RPMs, so it doesn't use up as much HP. This is all good, but the thing is, there are...

Like many features of automotive design, it's a trade-off, based on packaging considerations. Computers embody similar compromises. You want the radiator where it gets lots of cool airflow -- obviously, the easiest way to do that is to place it at the very front of the car. Airflow in the...

My 67 Commando has never had overheating problems. It has a factory 68 340 radiator (due to an accident, but that's basically the same as the 273 3-row), and a 7 blade fan, with no shroud. I have taken it to track days and run mountain rallies. So you seem to have something else going on. Start...

Just FYI, Rock Auto sent me that same pump body for a 67 273 w/o air. The extra inlet isn't in the way, but it doesn't have the machined face around the alternator bracket holes, so I can't use it either. I think that must be the only new casting Gates is working with now. Which rules them out, IMO.

Ha, I just found this thread: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=211139 67 Valiant 273 with AC... and a fan shroud!

I know that some 383-S Barracudas had shrouds, because I pulled the rad out of one in Seattle in 1979, and my helper "helped" me by busting out the shroud before I could tell him to save it. 49-state 273 Commandos and 225 slants w/o air did not have shrouds, as I have original cars to look at...