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i guess that makes sense.. makes for alot of pissed off people if they are misinformed.

why does everyone grade their transmissions by hp? doesnt torque actually kill a trans/rearend?

i think a 9 inch is a good idea over a certain level, i would lower that level if you were using a manual, since they are alot harder on the rears than autos are. i honestly think you would be ok with a 8 3/4 if you have an auto, there are plenty of guys making big hp with the ford 8.8s too...

i used the 3/8 aluminum line (used for fuel) from i think it was mancini. 20ish bucks for 25 ft roll.

what year trans is it? and is the output shaft going into the convertor beveled on the end (first quarter or 1/8th inch missing the splines?)

try moparts.com they have alot more traffic there which is good if you need a quick answer.

i just ordered the hurst v-matic 2 is both ratchet or gate shifter.. it was between that and b&m pro ratchet.. that means ill have a lokar floor mount shifter for 727 up for sale soon..

ok need a new shifter, have a lokar but due to tunnel clearance i want to go with a ratchet/gate shifter question is can i use a ratchet shifter with a stock 727 valve body? just shift it into "d" and go?

changed it today, was a pain in the ***. the tool didnt work after about 5 mins of trying. so i dropped pan, and valve body and did it that way. to get the seal back in i used 2 big washers and a bolt/nut and just tightened them down til it sealed the gap. havent filled it up yet but it had...

thanks, i did some research and thats it. wish i knew that before i put trans in car..i ordered the tool, hopefully its not as much of a pain in the *** as i fear. the seal was like 7 bucks with tax.

ok i put my 727 in and put some fluid in it..i noticed it was dripping slowly, figured it was the flare fitting i had to modify..but after closer inspection it is coming from under the shifter arm. is this normal? whats the easiest way to fix this? i really really dont wanna pull the trans out...

red, i meant that there will be power to one of the switches at one time or another? and the shifter thing, on mancini it shows there is a required "bracket" that goes on the gear selector on the trans where the shifter linkage goes.. do even aftermarket floor shifters require those? it says...

does it matter what goes to what? im assuming one is a constant 12v the other isnt?

anyone have a wiring diagram for the 3 prong switch? i need to find which one is neutral and which one is reverse. id test it in park/neutral but i cant, as shifter is not hookekd up yet.. also do i need a special shifter connector fora floor mount lokar shifter?

ok i bought the lokar floor shifter and am running into some mounting issues..well clearance issues i should say.. (its not going in a mopar, but i am using a 727/360 combo) there are 2 threaded rods that come in the kit, do those have to stay the same length, or can they be shortened/lenghtened...

also, is there any advantages of getting an aluminum driveshaft over the DOM other than weight?

its about time for me to figure out where to buy my driveshaft from. i need a custom one, prefer an aluminum one, but will settle for a good DOM one, ive looked online at a few places, but dont know who is better/faster. it will be 30inches long at most, and the ujoint going to the rear HAS to...

ok thanks. ill go check it in a bit, i may have to wait til i pull it out when i finish my motor/trans mockup.

how can i tell which one i have? its a 727 out of an 85 dodge truck behind a 360.

do they make a conversion ujoint that takes the 7260 to the 1350? if they do know who sells them?

i called transtar and they said it wasnt their model number..anyone have any other ideas?

ok bought a 360/727 combo pulled the trans off to make it easier to move around and the converter doesnt look stock..partly because it has the date of 01 on a tag on it and it is balanced. the other numbers on tag were 5423ls i searched for that number and it brought me to transtar website.. but...

i have one i was going to use for a project, it was a hassle to find it, i will try and get a pic of it this week. i even have the bolt on shaft too.

this is the setup made for my car with a ford 8.8 so it would be similiar to that..i am sorta starting one, but its a slow process.. im still test fitting parts.. so far its been harder to mock up since there are fewer mounting points on the differential..

has anyone seen one of these? this sounds like the best setup for my project, id go with a 4 link but i would have to back half the car and thats more than i want to do now.. ive started on the mounts already but want to see if anyone already has done it or tried it.

yeah the 904 is kind of a tight fit now. its the linkage that is is sticking out the most. ive also thought of a manual trans, that would probably give me the most room/desireable gear ratios (most rx7 guys use the ls1 with t56)

i would like to keep the 904. it is compact enough and i will be looking to save weight, i dont like the extra 80lbs with the 518. i guess that will be a good reason to invest in some taller gears and put the solid rear in. and when i said put in a solid rear i have an IRS in there now, only 2...

i entered info on this website, my rear will be 4.10 (for a while until i swap in solid rear), 24.5 tires, and the 4 gear ratios of the 518. that looks more like what i am looking for. now how would i mate the 518 to the 360 la? just like a 904 trans or do i need a special convertor? RPM...

ok so im working on a project, i will be using a mopar 360 engine, not sure of year yet but not a magnum. anyway, i was going to use the 904, but after putting in my rear gear ration at 4.1 and tire size 25" i realized that my gas mileage will be horrible and i will have high rpms at cruising...

i uploaded photos to my gallery on here. i hope its a neutral balance, makes my life easier. i looked at it again and didnt see any weights other than that little one.