Search results for query: *

A&A will have them. Like Locomotion said, they're mostly found in '78-up 904s but not all units have them. The info below is cut and pasted from this thread; Differences in 904 sun shells Something to be aware of is the later ('78-up) low gear sun shells are different than earlier models. You...

No, it won’t. Build sheet would but not the fender tag. And even then, you’d need to know what the code was. Trust me, its a 904. And again, even if it was a 998, big deal. If you want a performance trans, build one. A 998 isn‘t really going to offer a better starting point than any other 904.

What kind of car is it? If it's an A body, it's not a 998, it's a garden variety 904. If it's a heavier vehicle it's possible it's a 998 but even then it's not likely. AFAIK, Plymouth didn't make many trucks in 1974 (if any) so that makes the possibility of it being a 998 even less likely. In...

Yes on saving the side adjusters and caps. Save the pinion shims too. Are you planning on checking pinion depth/backlash/gear mesh pattern with the new Sure Grip? (you should be) Are you replacing the pinion and carrier bearings? (you should be) What tools do you have to do all this stuff...

What exactly are you trying to do?

Take the caps iff and take while thing out.

And down the toilet. Goodbye!

Hope those snarky comments weren't directed at me... never said the guy needs a fully-prepped race trans, just citing it because it illustrates the 904 is an inherently strong design that can handle most anything you throw at it. Everything has a breaking point, throw enough power at it, you'll...

OP, do you know what year your 904 is? They're all basically the same but there are slight internal differences between earlier and later years, especially after 1978 when they became lockup style. The lockup are generally less desirable for performance applications but like the video posted...

400 hp won't kill it.

No, definitely not. It’s not even a 904. Like I said, this is a modern, electronically controlled transmission, way different than the older units. I don’t even know how it fits in a ‘70s A body.

So I was almost right about the number. Not sure on the '94 model year but pretty sure it will have electronic programming controls in it since that's when OBD II started appearing in vehicles. Frankly, I don't think many out there would have thought to put those two specific pieces together...

No idea dude but it's possible. Does it vibrate all the time in all gears/speeds/loads or just at idle? Kinda hard to diagnose a vibration over the interwebs, we can only guess. Could be a misfire, bad engine or trans mount... too many possibilities to guess at without more detailed and specific...

Going by that number one would presume the unit is at least a late '80s-later variant. Definitely a lockup style converter. Not sure what it could be out of, maybe a cop car or van? What's the tail shaft look like?

What is the PK number on the driver's side pan rail? Here is a trans number ID reference. https://www.mymopar.com/downloads/transguide.pdf Except for a few rare instances, all 904's were basically the same and are externally indistinguishable from one another so you can't tell much just by...

May not like this answer but the truth is whatever someone is willing to pay for it. Not sure what you have in it but I can’t imagine getting much for it. Not too many people out there clamoring for a garden-variety 904. Even if it’s in perfect condition most guys don’t hold them in high regard...

Whoa, way old thread! I use an older version of this one. Not cheap but I will say with 100% confidence it works better than the cheaper ones out there. Some may have good luck with other tools and yes, it's expensive if you only do the job every so often but it is is a really nice tool.

Right angle fittings won't work. When I did my cooler lines, I tried 90 degree fittings on both the front and back cooler taps with the unit out of the car, no dice. There's not enough room to be able to swing the fitting around when you tighten it down, it hits the case before it bottoms...

Russell -6AN Push-Lok from the case to the frame, 3/8" aluminum tubing along the frame rail then back to the Push-Lok between the radiator support and frame. B&M cooler up front, bulkhead fittings through the radiator support.

Cool, glad to hear that it was useful. Funny how stuff like this can drift off into oblivion until one day someone stumbles across it and uses the info in it to their advantage. That right there is Pure Internet Gold. The 999 was used in 80s Jeeps for sure but bolting a mail Jeep trans into...

Paul Forte is the owner of Turbo Action. Nice guy, he will help you. So will Rick Allison or one of his guys from A&A or John Cope. Or Lenny from Ultimate or Dynamic Converters in Delaware or.... Read through some of these posts on Moparts, might give a clearer understanding. Or not...

Read up on the vagaries of the ever-mysterious 999 transmission here.

A different transmission. If you don't want lock up, don't even bother with that 1988 unit. I've said this many times and 360duster knows - trying to make a 1978-up lock-up unit into a non lockup trans. is really difficult if not impossible because of the intricacies of particular parts involved...

Nope, not without a huge hassle. Tracking down all the correct parts, including the pump and non-lockup drum that fits that particular pump is essentially impossible to do here in the US, can't fathom trying to do that in Germany! You actually posted a reply in my old thread here, might help to...

Yes, the pics are still on Photobucket, I can see them with my browser. I use Firefox, there is an add-on to be able to view Photobucket files. photobucket embed fix

Common issue, it's not fun. I want to figure out how to route the cable so it comes from the back of the case. It would need some sort of bell crank arrangement because the cable action would be reversed. Aerospace Components makes something like that. It's part of a kit they have for a Glide...

We can only do so much on the old interwebs, right? At least our OP here is trying... What AJ is saying here is that your TOTAL timing (centrifugal + mechanical) NEEDS TO BE CHECKED AND VERIFIED. Please do that and report back as to what it is. This is a BASIC task and should be verified on...

I would say leave it alone.

Where did your timing wind up? I would recommend not to touch the carb until your are 100% certain the timing is correct. 9 times out of 10 guys will start fiddling with the carb and get way out of whack with it when the problem was usually with the ignition timing.... (me included). Carb...

Mine is relocated, there is a passageway that you have to drill into. You have to plug the vent in the front. DAMHIK. Read about trans. vents here. I used a parts store vent from a Turbo 350, looks like a little green mushroom.