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There are a few options available. What are you trying to do with it?

Jacobs Nitrous Mastermind is what I use to control it. It has adjustable dial controls for the initial N2O hit, Full N2O flow, Rev Limiter, and Timing retard up to 10 degrees. The problem is that ACCEL now makes that controller, and I wouldn't trust ACCEL as far as I could throw them.

I bought a new timing cover, and accessories when I put the Magnum into my Dart. It wasn't too tough at all.

OK. I've never run across that issue. The crank snout is the same for the LA and Magnum, so any balancer will fit as far as I know.

Sure you're not talking about a "poly" 318? That's not an LA.

The crank pulleys are the same bolt pattern for the Magnum and LA.

No problem! I ran into that whole debacle when I did the swap. I had all the LA accessories for the Dart, and swapping it to a Magnum presented a few unique issues. I had to get rid of the Maggy timing cover, water pump, and accessory cradle, then I bought a March billet pulley and bracket kit...

The Magnum and LA timing coves are different, though, because of the water pump rotation being opposite from each other. (LA = Clockwise, Magnum = CCW) I am running LA accessories on my Magnum in the Dart.

390cid, 750cfm QuickFuel

The Eagle forged cranks have that radius back cut a little bit to solve that problem.

Thanks! Yeah. I put him away by more than .3, and I let out of the throttle at the 1000' mark. I was just making shakedown passes, and he wanted to make a few alongside me. I have changed the gears, and wheels/tires since then too. It should run 11's this season.

I had that motor in a Dakota before the Dart, and it ran power brakes fine. I love the idle of it. 1970 Dart HD Walk around after polishing - YouTube

The poly motors had thicker walls, but the LA and Magnum blocks aren't going to have as much cylinder wall thickness.

Especially in a street application. I wouldn't hesitate to run a .090" bore in a siamese block, or in a race only application, though. (As long as it was sonic checked). The smaller bore will live longer in a street/strip build, though.

Here's the crank for it: http://www.campbellenterprises.com/Chrysler-Dodge-Mopar-Crankshaft-318-340-Crankshafts-340-4125EA6F-Molnar-Crankshafts_6755.prt

Guys...a 318 bored .030 over, and with a 4.125 stroke is also a 402 CID.

My 390 combo is as follows: 318 Magnum block 4" Eagle forged crank Eagle Forged H-beam rods Diamond Forged 11:1 pistons Magnum R/T 1.92 heads pocket ported RPM Air-Gap manifold Flow Tech Headers Quick Fuel 750-AN carb Cam: .588/.588 lift, 236/242 @ .050" (1.6:1 Magnum roller rockers)

Very good point, Rick. Mine pulls about 11" of vacuum at idle, but I have manual brakes, so I don't care.

I run my 390 at 14 initial, and 34 total. All in by 2500.

I've replaced a seal in a 318 without removing the crank more than once. You have to break the mains loose, but you don't have to completely remove them to do it. Pull the rear main and oil pump, loosen the other main caps, and then take a small screwdriver and push the upper seal out from the...

The bore sizes should be bigger for a 750 vs. a 650.

He should be able to run it with pump 93. I'm running an 11:1 390 with a slight race gas mix, and it's perfectly happy.

I'd rather see him take a look at the existing power valve instead of just swapping carbs. There could be a bunch of things that are off on the carb, and he would never know what it was if the different one works right.

Thanks! That should at least get it somewhere in the ballpark. Not my first rodeo with these beasts. LOL!!

1) Adjust the valves 2) set fuel pressure to 6 psi 3) start with the idle mix screws 2 turns out from completely closed 4) set base timing to 10-14* btdc with no vacuum advance hooked up Start with those things, and report back.

I'm also on board with the air bleeds or bowl level being too high. I had to set the level quite a bit lower than expected on my Quick Fuel.

Reason #8007 why I like Quick Fuel carbs. Sight glass on the bowls, and adjustable air bleed sizes on all 4 barrels. They screw in like the fuel jets do. No more drilling or spilling fuel to set float bowl levels.

Check to see that your wires are on the right terminals on the cap. The cylinders are only 45 degrees apart on the distributor cap.

Exactly. It may be running fat because there isn't enough timing to burn what's there.

Agreed.