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Should be the same, which pieces don't look right?

Got the flexplate changed without pulling the tranny. Then woke up from my dream and spent most of the day Sat changing it out. Three of the ears were cracked, one broke all the way off, good thing I didn't wait any longer to do it. Tried to save a little time and propped the starter up on the...

Whats the difference and which one is best for a street car, raced maybe 10 times per year? Thanks Bruce

Looking for someone in the Austin/San Antonio area to do my 904. Thanks Bruce

Thanks Fishy I met a Mopar guy at Pinks all out in San Antonio, races a 63 Ply with 440. He has a shop so Ill get ahold of him. So should the sprag always be replaced? Which one should I get bolt in or weld in? Do those kits you get have all the thrust washers and sprag? I'm sure this tranny...

Yea checked them praying that was all it was, I'm going under it tomorrow and look things over with it running and maybe a timing light. The strobe will show any movement from the converter/flexplate. Thanks Mike

I was planning on having the tranny gone thru and beefed up for the 360 so now seems to be a good time to let a shop do the trans and flexplate. Has anyone used the kit from Mancini? It has all the clutches steels and cheetah shift kit and a deep pan that holds 2 more quarts of fluid, under...

Sounds like it's broken, major noise coming from there and major vibration in park when revved up, and in gear at about the same rpm in all gears. It has had a slight vibration for a while but when I revved it pretty high the other day it really got worse, and is steadily getting worse

Can the flexplate be replaced without pulling the trans? Will the converter slide back far enough to get to the bolts? 318/904 Thanks Bruce

Mine was the same way, pulled it out to check joints and could push the joint back and forth about 1/8', Makes for a bad vibration, hopefully it will hold out long enough to get the 8 1/4 in with new driveshaft.

Re-read Longgones post he explained it very clearly

Hey Larry that motor looks very lonely sitting there all by itself, you should send it down here so I can break it in for you LOL Bruce

On 5 bolt you measure from the outside of one bolt to the center of one across from it, yours is 41/2 as I have looked into these rear ends before. Are you using this in an A-Body? If so I think the spring perch measurement is slightly wider Hope this helps Bruce

Do a search there was a chart posted last week listing most all a-bodies.

You need to cut it down 1.6 inches the difference is the 81/4 pinion shaft is longer which means the driveshaft has to be shortened. The u-joints are also different, you will need one for an 81/4. I have a driveline that came out of a car with a 81/4 if you need measurements from the ujoints Was...

Is this what your looking for? http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip,78666/initialAction,partTypeResultSet/initialN,11200098/initialNtt,/initialNo,/shopping/selectZip.htm Or were you wanting something more performance oriented.

You could make it work without changing the perches but the problem is you are going out with the springs which means less tire clearance. Bruce

Thanks for al the info guys I just like to do all this stuff myself, not really about the money, accu has a video but I think I'll take it to San Antonio, met a mopar guy with a shop at the pinks all out, watch him do it and learn how. Thanks again Bruce

I thought that was a little high as that is only the install, they said 3 hrs shop time, no parts included. I would like to do it myself, I need a good dial indicator for the engine build anyway, so I will need? torque wrench inch lbs, what tool sets pinion depth? Found a book for $29, supposed...

Was this an a-body rear end to begin with or a cut down B body? What is the flange to flange measurement now? Bruce

Got a quote of $265 to install a ring and pinion, is that about what it goes for now days? It's a 8 1/4 suregrip. Thanks Bruce

Did you measure the spring perch ctr-ctr the # on that rear is the same as the one I got and it is 44+, if it's going in an A Body you need 43. Mine came out of a 70 Charger. Bruce

Yes as TopHat said it's not something you should attempt without help from someone who knows how to rebuild the cross member top half after you cut most of it out. This is the torsion bar mounting point and an important structural point of the frame. You also have to build a lower cross member...

Looks to be a 518,46rh has a 14 bolt pan with 3 pin elec plug Thanks for the info Bruce

I have the numbers off my trans they are 4461036H with 09104 under that. Is this a 518 or 500? Came out of a 91 1/2 ton PU Thanks and God Bless Bruce

Can the low gear in a a-518 be changed? I will be using a 3.55 rr so a lower gear for launch would be nice. Thanks and God Bless Bruce

If you go to this site they have everything you need for the swap, it comes with all the hydraulic and electrical and vacuum hook ups so the trans works on its own. http://www.transmissioncenter.net/highperflist.htm Hope this helps Bruce

I took the car up to 45-50 in 2nd vibration there but minimal, at 70-75 very bad, put car in neutral at 75 vibration gone. When the vibration is bad you can feel it in the gas pedal and very strong from the shift lever. Local guy said it might be the pinion, possible? Thanks ya'll (been in TX...

Thanks for the input all, I'll try more tests tomorrow, it's always had a slight high speed vibration but this just started the other day. Thanks again Bruce

I left work the other night, short ramp fast accel, and when I got on the freeway developed a sudden vibration at about 65-70mph, not steady but on off at about 1 second intervals, almost a shudder. Pulled the driveline no bad joints, tried high rpm in second and it's still there,so is it coming...