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Adding a rear bar will really make a difference............

Are your lower control arms lowered all the way down? Have you removed the upper control arm bump stops? Have you disconnected the shocks? If not you probably still have tension on the bars. Have you removed the C-Clips at the rear of the bars on the trans. crossmember? In the past I have...

Front AND rear sway bars and good gas shocks go a long way....

I would stick with the .92 bars, shocks and both sway bars...unless you are doing some serious track work. The sway bars will stiffen the suspension-in turns-without beating you up all the time......... Diameter ** Rate ** MPP P/N *** Suggested Application A-body: .810" 100 lb/in P5249148...

Saginaw on left Federal on right Slant 6 Pulley V8 Pulley

.92 bars and front and rear sway bars will improve the handling big time. Takes away the fear of grinding off your rocker panels.

It is just so much easier to follow it and check it on both sides or do the string line.

It will show 4 tracks !! The front track is wider than the rear by almost 2 inches. Like I said before, check BOTH sides from the rear as it is driving down the road. And old Novas and Camaros had a tendency to break the centering stud in the rear spring which helped the axle move around.

See above .

In 1967, Mother Mopar widened the front frame and body to better accomodate the big block as well as a better exhaust on the small blocks. The front track went from 55.9 inches to 57.4 while the rear track stayed at 55.6. What you are seeing is the difference which makes you thing the car is...

Factory manual says 70 ft/lbs :burnout:

The shocks self-extend because they are a gas pressure shock and with no load or restrictions on them, they extend...sorta like blowing up an inner tube with no tire.

Manual or power steering ? And what specifically are you trying to do?

Greast Info !!! :cheers: Soooo..did it make a big difference in the corners ??? Car did not want to push off the road ?? Didn't feel that the rockers were going to be your suspension limiters ? Look familiar ?? Does it corner like this?? If that bar ain't big enough, a mid 80's Ford...

LCA pivot arm nut --145 ft/lbs UCA bolts---------- 70 ft/lbs strut bar --------- 45 ft/lbs upper/lower balljoint- 125/ft/lbs spindle nut---------- 240 to 300 inch/lbs while rotating disc and hub. Hope this helps !!

Lose weight, optimize suspension, stir in a bunch of torque and have fun. If all else fail, swap some modified A-Body panels onto one of these and walk away from everybody.

You can always heat the bars to fit and re-heattreat them.

Front end needs to be aligned. Too much camber.

Front and rear sway bars will really make a huge improvement. Ask any cop!!

A rear sway bar will not help with the rubbing. It will help a bunch with the handling. Takes a lot of the plow (understeer) out of the car and it will corner flatter.

Once you get it up, put a small piece of wood on top of each stand. Helps spread the load out on the rails.

Gets very complicated in 70 and even worse in 73 and newer. What year are we talking about?

What are the 3 numbers stamped on 1 end of the bars??

Mopars don't use traction bars. The axle is mounted 1/3 the way back on the springs as oppossed to the 1/2 back on GM and Fords. That way when the front of the axle tries to rotate upward on acceleration, it has a lot less leaverage on the spring. And the snubber can limit the travel on the...

Do as Mopar says....and place wood on top of stands to spread the load around so you don't bend the rails.

#3. Slant 6 has a different P/S pulley than a V8. SLANT 6 V8

It is fun !!! Esp. if you have access to a lift, engine hoist and a custom made roll-about cradle for the K-frame as well as one for the engine.

Also check that both bars are the same rate. I have seen where somebody puts a /6 bar on 1 side and a big block bar on the other.

I have seen where they take the carb off and use threaded rods from the carb bolt holes in the manifold up thru a 2 2x12 pieces of wood laid across the inner fenders. A couple of large washers and double nut all 4 rods. Diconnect everything and drop the K-Frame.