‘65 cable-shift 904 replacement advice

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azaustin

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I’m getting ready to swap out the cable-shift 904 in my ‘65 Dart GT convertible. It’s an original 235hp car. The new tranny is one that was rebuilt by a large outfit in Phoenix and comes with a new (rebuilt) torque converter. I’ve read the FSM as much as I can, but I still have some questions, especially about releasing the shift cable, etc. The only automatics I’ve r&r’d in the past were Fords, and they were pretty easy. My FSM is a reprint, and the pages in the index don’t match with the topics, so getting the correct info is kind of a treasure hunt. Does anyone have any advice for me on where I could find a step-by-step procedure on how to do this? The cable-operated 904’s were ‘64-‘65 only according to what I’ve read, and I want to make sure I get it right. I have a lift and hydraulic transmission jack, so I won’t be doing this on the floor.

The existing transmission works ok, but leaks like a sieve just about everywhere except the dipstick tube. Also, is there anyway to see if the torque converter has a different stall speed than stock? Are they stamped or marked when modified? I bought this transmission from a guy who decided to go to a built 727 because he was going to run a high-horsepower motor.Thanks.
 
The FSM should show you how to release the two cables, the rest is standard auto tranny stuff, cooler lines, crossmember. You will be changing driveshafts. Be sure to have the correct size torque convertor snout and crankshaft diameters.
 
The transmission I’m installing came out of a cable-shift ‘65 Dart coupe should be the same as the one being removed. Both driveshafts use trunnion-style joints at the transmission end. The photos in the FSM are very poor quality and didn’t really help, and the written instructions aren’t all that good either. Pretty common for many FSM’s I have used over the years. I did find a couple of videos on youtube that were helpful. The FSM also mentions flex plate alignment and marking, so that’s another area of concern. I do plan to check the diameter of the TQ snout, but it should also be the same. The dual-cable 904’s are kind of their own creature, so I’m just reaching out for anything I need to be aware of on this particular job. All the other automatic transmissions I’ve swapped/removed/replaced were pretty simple. Just linkages, lines, and electrical connections. Thanks again for your response.
 

As stated previously, The TSM explains releasing the cable. If you're pulling the transmission anyhow, you may find it easier to just drop the pan first and gain access to the release versus going in from the point of entry or pulling the neutral safety.

Good luck
 
I believe I have some photos of how they are attached in my thread. Once the pan is off if I recall correctly you can figure it out easily. The new one you just push the cables in and they snap in place.

1963 Dodge Dart 270 Convertible for the Wife
Thanks I appreciate the link. The shift cable doesn’t worry me, but the park cable is a real booger. A couple of years ago I tried to pull it according the FSM but didn’t have much luck, so I just left it as it was. At the time I was just trying to replace the 0-ring on the cable. After a couple of unsuccessful tries I just left it as it was. Also, it appears the flex plate is indexed to the converter, so I want to get that right as well. Thanks.
 
Thanks I appreciate the link. The shift cable doesn’t worry me, but the park cable is a real booger. A couple of years ago I tried to pull it according the FSM but didn’t have much luck, so I just left it as it was. At the time I was just trying to replace the 0-ring on the cable. After a couple of unsuccessful tries I just left it as it was. Also, it appears the flex plate is indexed to the converter, so I want to get that right as well. Thanks.

Did you take the pan off? Much easier.
 
Thanks, Jim. Going to pull the pan first thing. BTW, your car is a push button. I think the shift and park cable setup may be a little different from mine. Nice car. There must be something about women and these early A’s. My wife referred to my BMW convetible as “the white” car when we met. When I brought the Dart convertible home, the first thing she said was “that’s mine!”
 
I reached thru the neutral switch hole and released the holder with a thin screwdriver, can't remember ever removing pan to release cable.
Unfortunately I'm old enuff to have had to replace many cables in vehicle .
 
I reached thru the neutral switch hole and released the holder with a thin screwdriver, can't remember ever removing pan to release cable.
Unfortunately I'm old enuff to have had to replace many cables in vehicle .

That is suppose to work but I have never tried it...
 
Thanks. I saw a reference to doing that. I’m going to take the pan off anyway to drain it, but that’s a good trick to know. I’m not real experienced on Mopar stuff, so I try to reach out for advice when I venture into new territory. This website has been a huge help with my learning process.
 
That is suppose to work but I have never tried it...
It's a pretty easy way to do it short of dropping the pan.

I've tried all three

For the park cable, the biggest thing to understand is the orientation of the spring and where the slot is in relation to the drain hole

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20220806_192831.jpg
 
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It's one of those things that once you actually see it, doh, lol
Kinda like un-doing brake adjusters thru the slot, once you see it, understand it .
 
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Thanks. I saw a reference to doing that. I’m going to take the pan off anyway to drain it, but that’s a good trick to know. I’m not real experienced on Mopar stuff, so I try to reach out for advice when I venture into new territory. This website has been a huge help with my learning process.

It's sometimes dangerous to pass on these old "tricks", easy to get flamed by . . .
 
Great pix.
In the 3rd pic, with the switch out, you just reach thru hole with a thin tool, then lift and hold that wire/spring sticking outta the "receiver/tube", and pull out the cable from the front.

Good luck .
 
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