‘67 barracuda heat soak and timing issues

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crackedback said:
If you have the hood up and a nosy hoa'er comes around tell them a neighbors cat, snake, rare butterfly/animal got trapped and you were trying to get it out safely.

I primed an engine compartment in a tyvex suit in my driveway. HOA person asked.. I was fumigating for black widows! LOL
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that’s such a good idea haha, there are a ton of cats roaming around so it’s a good excuse!
 
crackedback said:
Anything under 10* initial is going to be a mess

I run stock 340's in the 14-16 range.

That alone should help with the temps as fuel will burn where it is supposed to a not still be burning in the exhaust port, heating things up. Late timing is rough on exh valves too...
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i’m really hoping fixing the timing brings everything together maybe even so the electric fans are redundant!
 
AJ/FormS said:
No, 750 is not too slow for a V8 that has 4 power-pulses per revolution. It may be too slow for a 4-banger that only has half that.
I used to run my 292/292/108 even slower.
The limit of slowness is when your rocker arms gall for lack of oil volume. or the engine stalls, lol. To that end, I installed a High volume pump, and re-engineered my top-end oiling system, to live, down at 500/550, in gear (manual trans), and idling down the road .
Now, if your engine does not like idling that slow, and has good even cylinder pressure; that will be either a tuning issue or possibly tight rings/tight pistons.
If you have an automatic, and YOUR engine won't idle in gear at 650, or will but won't take throttle, then I'd bet money that the transfer slots are closed too far. That's a tuning issue.
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once we get the timing sorted out i’ll check how low it can go and if it’s having an issue at 650 like you said, i’m going to check the transfer slots, thank you!
 
Transfer slots you can use the .020 to .040 rule of thumb IF its a Holley.

Fan should be OK. Looks to be a later one from the tips that are visible.
The fact that I can see a substantial part of the blade has me wondering if its close enough to the core. Don't want it too close of course, it can flex and the engine torques up and then the blade hits the tank or the core. :(

if its a fixed fan (as opposed to a clutch fan) there are various spacers to get the fan where it will be effective.

Here's one diagram from an aftermarket manufacturer.
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So they say 1" minimum from the core. Direct Connection advised .75 " minimum to the clutch unit if running one. Of the top of my head I'd say if the blades are 2" away and no shroud, probably losing effectiveness.
Edit. Dana wrote factroy cars are as much as 3" away.
Dana67Dart said:
My stock 67 Dart has no fan shroud and the fan sits 3-4 inches from the radiator (stock distance) and It can idle all day long without issue on the hottest day.

My 67 273 has 6 1/4 Dia crank pulley and a 6 1/2 Dia water pump pulley
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The second point he makes there is really important. The pulleys need to be turning the water pump (and fan) at similar or faster speed than the crank. A/.C equiped cars got a different water pump and IIRC they all got a clutch fan.
 
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we just took an old box end wrench and heated it up a bit and bent it in a vise. Now we have a cal custom dedicated distributor wrench. But it works perfectly
 

I skimmed through this thread, I do agree initial timing needs to be addressed. Didn’t see if the carb was discussed. I solved my heat soak issue with a 1/2” phenolic carb spacer. You are probably boiling the fuel out the float bowls. Get the carb up off that hot *** intake that will help big time. I would drive my barracuda around, would start fine and run fine cold. If I got it to operating temperature and shut it off let it sit for more than 10minutes it wouldn’t start. Had to wait until it completely cooled down. It’s was boiling fuel out the carb.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/_nex...a-2b32-47e4-807c-77a06f60bb8b.jpg&w=1280&q=75
 
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