10.5 to 1 pistons

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trapster said:
ok I was confused I thought the wrist pins went through the rods.
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Sorry I will clarify. The hole in the rod and piston is the same size on both sets. The difference is in the center hole in the pin. On the flat top it is 1/2 the size hole in the pin meaning the pin is thicker but on the inner diameter is where it is made up. Hope that helps.
 
chryslerfat said:
Sorry I will clarify. The hole in the rod and piston is the same size on both sets. The difference is in the center hole in the pin. On the flat top it is 1/2 the size hole in the pin meaning the pin is thicker but on the inner diameter is where it is made up. Hope that helps.
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Ah, thanks

learn something new every day.
 
I have not tried to flip the pistons from right to left but after looking close can see why that may have been done to boost compression. I just looked at the new set and originals I have and noticed the wrist pin is not centered and is offset to one side of the piston. Flipping from right to left might put them further up the bore and bringing them closer to the top.
 
Looking at the pictures from the links posted earlier I can not tell but it appears the wrist pin is more to the center of the piston. I am not sure they are left and right as originals were.
 
Still Looking !! said:
Chryslerfat ,Would the wrist pins come with the pistons from Kanter ? Or would I have to buy them separate??
Kanter also lists only one connecting rod for both the 2bbl and the 4bbl so no problems with the new pistons to the old con rods ?? The same as the push rods (7.50")

Thanks everyone for your help. Would still like to find a book that would answer all my questions.
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Pushrods are different length for solid lifters than hydraulic.
 
The factory pistons had offset but the replacements don't. The low compression pistons were the only ones that could be reversed to make a difference. The domed pistons can't be reversed in their own bores and if you put them on the other bank the offset remains the same. tmm
 
toolmanmike said:
The factory pistons had offset but the replacements don't. The low compression pistons were the only ones that could be reversed to make a difference. The domed pistons can't be reversed in their own bores and if you put them on the other bank the offset remains the same. tmm
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Thanks for the info now I dont need to try flipping them.
 
the reason for switching pistons L to R is to take advantage of the .015 offset on the piston wrist pin by switching them they will make about 10/15 more hp ,but the reason for the offset is to keep the piston from making that slapping noise when you start to get cylinder wear, most aftermarket pistons for performance have no offset ,and if you set up too much piston clearance they will knock (KB).(trw forged)
 
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