16 year old needs help with disc brake upgrade!!!!

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HighSchoolSwinger71

HighSchoolSwinger71

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Hey Guys,

Im currently a high school student that is restoring a 1971 dodge dart swinger. so i did allot of reading about the conversion out here but seems to me that everyone makes it sound way easier then it is. i ordered the exspensive poly graphite kit and what not. ended up trying to put it together with the kit(using the 73 center link) and that was an epic failure. then the pitman arm they sent has a larger shaft size then my steering gear box. so im back to 71 center link and 71 pitman and idler arm. will this work? whats the best way to align it all back up? i got the new tie rods screwed identical in lenght to the old ones and they are way off. as you can tell i dont have much automotive guidance, i am on my own with this car. and very frustrated at this point. then i figured going to power brakes would be easy instead i had to back pack all over here looking for a parts car for this little bracket to hold the booster on with. im piling up spare parts and doing allot more then what most posts said would be involved with this up grade. im wondering if my car is just the one messed up or is it me? this up grade takes allot especially doing it alone but i was wondering if theirs any tips or handy information available? and my next project is to tackle yukon axles in the rear. any advice or pics links or anything would be helpful concidering i have had the car torn apart for 3yrs now i would love to drive my senior yr to high school.

thanks - SAM
 
First off you have to decide if you are going to use 72 down sbp front end/ brake parts or 73 up lbp front end/ brakes . Not sure if 70-72 disk and drum cars use same pitman , someone here will know
Then you should download the service manual for the year you decide on , that will help .
Your car is not messed up you just have to organize and take it step by step , not easy but not impossible

page with manuals
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=132309
 
If you are interested in retaining the original wheels for the car (4" bolt pattern), you will need to find a disc brake set up for your current model. If you are going to upgrade the front to 4.5" bolt pattern (talking about the circle spacing of the lugs) then the most economical upgrade is going with the '73+ disc brake set up. Now.. if you are going to the original disc brakes, you will keep all the upper, lower arms, drag link.. ect. All you will be changing is the spindle, rotors, calipers, and master cyl/combo valve. If you go with the 73+ set up, you will need new upper arms with the larger ball joints (73+), new spindles, calipers, hoses, master cyl., etc. Much more parts. THEN you will have a mismatch wheel set up (your original wheels will no longer fit). You will have to convert the rear to the 4.5 inch bolt pattern by either swapping rears or redrilling/replacing axles.

Either way, you should be able to keep your original steering box, pitman, idler, and drag link since they will fit both the old and new lower ball joint mounting point.

Please post you overall goal for the car.
 
By the way, the pitman arm, idler, drag link, and steering box is unique to what year your car is. As you have discovered, the 73+ steering gear has a larger shaft then the 72 and below box. No mixing of parts will work here.
 
Sometimes nothing seems as simple as it should be or sounds.The people on here are really good and they will point you in the right direction.Taking on a project like this by yourself and at your age is really great.Gl. Sam
 
Project 65 said:
Sometimes nothing seems as simple as it should be or sounds.The people on here are really good and they will point you in the right direction.Taking on a project like this by yourself and at your age is really great.Gl. Sam
Click to expand...

Half the "problem" is that Chrysler changed, or improved, their specs for components over the years. You must decide whether to keep your car within original "specs" or change to the "upgraded" specs. Generally speaking, Chrysler made the changes for very good reasons. Bigger is generally better, specifically concerning ball joints and wheel stud dimensions.

For my money, I like to go with the "improvements," such as the bigger ball joints and wheel studs. This seems sensible for cars used as drivers as opposed to car show trailer queens. It is simply the evolution of engineering.
 
Hey man, I am 48 years old and been working on cars since I was 20...and I am nervous about doing my upper and lower ball joints and bushings.....

You are awesome doing this at your age....just relax and take it slow...lots of great help here. You rock dude.
 
I did the swap on my 71 dart this spring. I reused the 71 pitman arm, idler arm, centerlink, and lower control arms. If you are doing the 73+ disc brake swap you need large ball joint upper arms, 73+ disc brake lower ball joints, 73+ disc brake spindles and bearings, rotors, calipers and so on. As far as alignment set them close to the old ones, then set the steering wheel straight with the front wheels on a pile of old magazines (to help the wheels move freely). You then adjust the tires so they are straight measuring on the tread of the tire so the front and back are about even. That should be close enough the drive to an alignment shop. You'll get there I'm sure, throw up some specific questions and there are plenty of people with answers here.
 
Thanks for the feed back - I want to get to the larger bolt pattern in front and use the 73 and up front end. I will be switching the rear end out to the larger pattern at a later date.
I am using 73, rotors, spindles, upper & lower control arm, tie rods, and 71 center link, idler arm, pitman arm, I adjusted the 73 tie rods to the length of the 71 tie rods I took off and I couldn't get both sides to hook up it seems like one side was always to short. The head of the tie rod in the center link is rubbing on the passenger side torsion bar too. Does the pitman arm need to be located a certian way on the steering shaft and if so how do I know when I have it correct?

Thanks Agan for the Help
Sam
 
If you have a digital camera, a picture would be worth a 1000 words...Are the 71 tie rod ends smaller than the 73? I wouldn't think there would be a problem there. Make sure you have the steering box centered (same number of turns to the right and to the left) before attaching the pitman arm. Is everything bolted down tight and the height of the torsion bars set? Weight on wheels?
 
Hey sorry guys i have been away from a computer for a while! im will try to stay closer to the computer as i will need some help with the final touches and get this car ready for high school. i had to resort to a little help from my dad but the two of us got the tie rods set up right and the center link 95% centered i hope the alignment shop wont hate me, now im on to rear axles and brakes for the car and i have read allot on this site - like i can use ford ranger hubs on my rear brake set up? or should i start tearing the brake components from a newer 8 3/4 and hook that set up on my new axles? another question is- a guy told me i need something special in my pumpkin to make the yukon axles slide in.. if that is true does someone have a link for the part so i can purchase it? im pretty lost on this project and could use any advice out there home coming is Sept 10 and i still have to put the green bearings on the axles put in the studs and then all this brake crap....thanks so much Sam
 
hey listen here im in you same boat im 18 and in my senior year of school and i did the same conversion on my 1971 dodge demon and what i did to keep it simple was brought my new lower ball joints(small ones) to the machines had him mount them on the jig and he machined .020 out of the mounting holes to spindle to reuse the mounting bolts so all you have to realistically have to swap over is the upper control arms and the spindles and reuse the steering components and lower control arms from your dart cause there is no need in making it more complicated for your self than it has to be
 
i totally wish youy would of told me that before i tore into it! but i really like the big bolt pattern just hated the whole process of getting it. i also wish i would of had more guidance in the garage most of the time i did it alone or with buddies who actually thought i knew what i was doing. haha but now im doing YUKON axles in the rear and i think i need like an adapter piece for the pumpkin to adapt to yukons but idk where to find one so if anyone has links that would be sweet! SAm

Tawny Demon i think we should race i have the top five fastest car at school and for sure the first if you eliminate the ones whose parents paid for it all
 
Your talking about the ..block..in the 8 3/4 center section.Instead of going with Yukon axels(28 inches),go with Moser axels.you,ll beable to slide them in without removing the block.Call Moser and tell them what your doing and what you want,they,ll fix you up quick.Write down your rear brake size,you,ll need this when talking with them.Good luck.
 
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