1964 hurst shifter

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Dana

Dana

FABO Vendor
FABO Vendor
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The linkage alignment holes are a lot smaller on each end of the mechanism, and the holes for 1-2 and 3-4 are like 1/4" (normal size for later mechanisms) Is anyone familiar with this? And What is the best procedure for linkage alignment? Thanks
 
Yea, they didn't use the bushings, just fit rods directly to the shifter arms. There should be the align pin holes in the shifter body and each shifter arm. You insert a pin or a small rod to center all the shifter gates. Then attach rods as needed. Make sense?
 
OK, I knew my explanation was bad. The align pin holes are smaller on the two ends, and bigger on the 1-2 and 3-4 arms. So when you stick the align pin in it is tight on both ends and sloppy in the middle.
 
Ok I see. Those shifters can be opened. Do you think someone changed the shifter parts internally? Using parts from different shifters?
 
I don't know. I was hoping someone would say "yes that's right" or "no, something is wrong" this is my first early a 4 speed.
 
Well it shifts in all gears.This shifter has no alignment hole in the reverse arm. There is a small notch, smaller than the other two arms. And if you try to use it, it puts the reverse arm too far rearward. I lined up 1-2 and 3-4, eyeballed reverse,lining up the base of all 3 arms, then it was just a matter of fine tuning the reverse arm adjustment. I hope this helps someone in the future. But, who knows maybe someone put the wrong parts back into this shifter?
 
There are at least some differences in shifters. I can still remember "for some reason" I decided to replace the one in my 70 V code RR (440-6). It had the big pistol grip, which snapped into a socket in the shifter, and did not use rod bushings. The replacement Competition Plus used a bolt on handle, used bushings, the inner dia of which was DIFFERENT than the non bused OEM, and worse, the shifter levers DID NOT properly fit the transmission. I used to cut tiny pieces of feeler gauge and slip them in between one edge of the lever shaft and the lever to "bush" the hole tighter. When You put the nuts on, it holds the feeler piece in place.
 
The early shifters used a special tool to line up the levers you are on the right track line 1/2 and 3/4 the best you can reverse rod sets further back. The manual shows a picture of the tool never seen one in real live.
 
jimb said:
The early shifters used a special tool to line up the levers you are on the right track line 1/2 and 3/4 the best you can reverse rod sets further back. The manual shows a picture of the tool never seen one in real live.
Click to expand...
Thanks Pal. Even though it works, I still have been thinking about it. I would love to see a picture of the tool. What manual are you talking about?
 
jimb said:
The early shifters used a special tool to line up the levers you are on the right track line 1/2 and 3/4 the best you can reverse rod sets further back. The manual shows a picture of the tool never seen one in real live.
Click to expand...
I dealt with the same issue of the reverse lever not drill on my original 69 shifter.
Where do you find the alignment tool shown in the FSM?
I wish I knew...
 
694spd said:
I dealt with the same issue of the reverse lever not drill on my original 69 shifter.
Where do you find the alignment tool shown in the FSM?
I wish I knew...
Click to expand...
I think a bolt will work. A piece of round stock?
 
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