1965 Dodge Dart Charger

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grimreaper said:
Ya, sounds great! If you haven't been able to contact Pat Blais he has changed his e-mail. It is now: [email protected]
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Great news grimreaper! I've been sending them 5 emails and all of them got back. Thank you so much.

Dan! I just used the FRAM filter for breaking in the camshaft. It's trashed now. I have a assembly line correct filter that will go on there after the paint is applayed.
 
Yup! Your week-41/1964 item looks to be a perfect candidate for restoration. It does not appear to have been sandblasted or "remanufactured" in the past; the P/N 2098830 indicates a 35-amp unit with single pulley.
 
slantsixdan said:
Yup! Your week-41/1964 item looks to be a perfect candidate for restoration. It does not appear to have been sandblasted or "remanufactured" in the past; the P/N 2098830 indicates a 35-amp unit with single pulley.
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Dan! Is that standard with 273 HP?
 
Yep. Two alternator options and four pulley options in '65. Alternators were
35A or 40-46A. All the 35A alternators with pulleys, no matter which pulley, were stamped 2098830. 35A service alternator without pulley was 2098525. All the 40-46A alternators with pulleys, no matter which pulley, were stamped 2098850; service unit without pulley was 2098535.

Pulleys were single 2¾" (2444 478 ) or 3" (2095 430 ), double 3" (2095 059 ) or 3½" (2095 662 ). Find the pulley P/N stamped on the front face of the pulley hub.

'65 FPC lists alternator 2098 830 with single pulley 2095 430 as "35A with single pulley, all models",
alternator 2098 850 with 40-46A with double 3" pulley as "all 8-cylinder models with A/C",
alternator 2098 830 with double 3½" pulley as "with 426 cu in Hemispherical engine", and
alternator 2098 850 with single 2¾" pulley as "All models except Imperial".

So yes, 2098 830 w/single pulley as standard equipment, 2098 850 w/single pulley as optional equipment, on your '65 273 car.
 
slantsixdan said:
Yep. Two alternator options and four pulley options in '65. Alternators were
35A or 40-46A. All the 35A alternators with pulleys, no matter which pulley, were stamped 2098830. 35A service alternator without pulley was 2098525. All the 40-46A alternators with pulleys, no matter which pulley, were stamped 2098850; service unit without pulley was 2098535.

Pulleys were single 2¾" (2444 478 ) or 3" (2095 430 ), double 3" (2095 059 ) or 3½" (2095 662 ). Find the pulley P/N stamped on the front face of the pulley hub.

'65 FPC lists alternator 2098 830 with single pulley 2095 430 as "35A with single pulley, all models",
alternator 2098 850 with 40-46A with double 3" pulley as "all 8-cylinder models with A/C",
alternator 2098 830 with double 3½" pulley as "with 426 cu in Hemispherical engine", and
alternator 2098 850 with single 2¾" pulley as "All models except Imperial".

So yes, 2098 830 w/single pulley as standard equipment, 2098 850 w/single pulley as optional equipment, on your '65 273 car.
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Dan! Any suggestions on a good restoration shop where I can get it in "factory condition" ? I also do have alot of parts for the restoration.
 
After some wondering about the factory procedure of painting the torsion bars I set them up and sprayed them richly back and forth. A lot of drip marks showed up so I hope it has dried tomorrow.

The starter got some paint too. One thin layer of black paint should do it.

The exhaust manifolds has two brackets towards the engine. One on the cylinder head and one on the engine block/transmission. I just need to find the right bolts. Somewhere........!

The front bushings for the rear leaf springs showed up today. Mint condition. They have the partnumber molded on one side. On the other side is some small dots and a paint mark. Can that paint mark be which side to mount the bushing from? Any leads is appriciated.

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I have no experience with them, but this outfit seems to present accurate info without BS. Their service is on the pricey side, but their website gives the appearance of meticulous attention to correct detail. If you have (or buy) the necessary parts for the restoration, it seems to me you ought to be able to accomplish it locally as long as you are very particular about the cosmetic aspects (no abrasive/blast cleaning, etc.).

I don't know if either of the linked outfits sells it, but you'll need the output stud insulator. The linked one looks used; I am pretty sure I have some new ones on the shelf.
 
Thanks Dan! That compay could do the work and they could even make a better deal since I had a bunch of stuff.

I checked out the dripping and they could be better so I added two more coats . The drips was great.

The starter turned out great. Looks like stock.

I put together the exhaust valve. Now it turns free and works great. It should be there before the paint process. Note the black phosphated bolt and nut.

The paint showed up today. International red engine paint. This will get interesting.........

BTW, should the fuel pump be there before paint?

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The bottom one is pretty much a standard fitting also used on the cooler ports on the radiator. I'd say the other one should be readily available as well.
 
The paint process has started. Oboy what a lot of work. Found all the information I have written down during the 5 year resto on the engine!

Something I didn't know was that the bolt that holds the oil filter angle was loose when the paint was applayed.

According to the service manual the spark plugs should read Champion N14Y. In my partsmanual it reads N9Y. Was there a change? My parts manual is from May 1966.

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I'll take a look and see; I've got a little voice at the back of my head saying I might have some NOS N9Ys (I can usually shut the sumbitch up with loud music
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Dan! thanks forthe help.

Today I did the paint job on the engine. It turned out very well. International red and I did all the over spray and also one spot where the paint dripped!! I doubble checked with some old parts and the color seems to be pretty close due to 45 years of running, heat, oil etc. The Chrysler red is much lighter in color compare to this one.

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I compare the color to the thread tmm has about his testoration. He had a test piece with IH red and that was much blood red than this color is.

I can't get why they dont do one color that was factory that kills all the discussion. But I know from a man who used to to work at the engine plant that the paint wadifferent from time to time when they did the mixing.

Anyway tonight I started to assemble the engine. I guess this is the fun stuff!

I took a picture of how the masking of the engine size and cast date was masked off during the paint process.

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THAT LOOKS AWESOME! The IHC red appears to be about perfect. It's almost unbelievable how orange or pink some of the parts turn in a mere 48 years isn't it??
 
65dartcharger said:
I can't get why they dont do one color that was factory that kills all the discussion.
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Because engine paint wasn't important enough for Chrysler to spend a lot of money on. There was no reason why the engine in this car should have to be exactly the same colour as the engine in that car; the paint was purchased on a low-bid basis and one of the ways the paint companies saved money was by going ahead and shipping paint that wasn't quite the same colour as the previous batch. It's not like Chrysler was going to stop the production line because the engine paint colour changed a little.

Me, when I was restoring a 1965 Canadian-built slant-6, I found that the Mopar Performance red wasn't even slightly close to correct, but "International Harvester Red" spray paint made by Martin-Senour and bought at NAPA was an ideal, exact match. It was a deeper red than this what you show us in the photos.
 
Assembled the front engine support tonight. Talk about difference from start!

The kick-down linkage has been redone but the lower "what-the-name-is" needs to be replaced. I'm willing to trade my redone piece to a mint used but with no pitting if someone have one to trade with of cause!

I stopped by an old wrecking yard the have a supersale. I found a working 65Dart radio for a usd 25 fee! This one have a clamp on the backside for the cables. Probably for the speaker.

The sliver scale in the front seems to be very good condition. I will compare to the new gauges. I want the aluminum to have the same color.

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Correct assembly line oil filter for the car. Bought years ago from a assembly worker at the Hamtramck plant. I have seen these ones in magazines but there were also the Mopar Multi Purpose Line filters some times. Any other models found?

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Yup, there was a factory option for a replaceable-element type oil filter p/n 2532 756, see for example here (the decal on this one is not in excellent condition, but you get the idea).
 
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