1966/'69 A100 Twins Build

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the best bodyman that ever crossed by pop body shop door , had a burlap sack for a tool bag and within that sack was hard *** blocks of wood and some stones and body files . he did amazing work all by hand working the metal , ''didn't like bondo dust one bit '' as i recall him saying . and as the weather changed , he was on his way .

I am far from that good! There will be filler dust flying soon.
 
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it's the way of the world my friend , as i learned to beat n peck on body repairs through my time as son of the owner there was never enough time given to do a straight mud free repair , speed of the repair became first , and we did alot of used trucks for resale . not that i didn't get called on how much time i was spending , lol . i can remember very well telling my pop we need to replace this part , i'd hear back ''FIX IT '' the claimed he already fed me , he was not buying parts too , lol . thats a hard line but it tot me not to be afraid of tacling any part of a project .
 
i'm surprised you don't have a shrinker stretcher jim, what with all the metalwork you do. what a time saver they are and they're cheap these days too.
neil.

I have no metal tools. I do not restore cars that need metal work. :rolleyes:
 
All prepped and epoxy primer applied on all the patches and interior to the rocker where there is no access once buttoned up. Had some extra mixed so started to get the interior of the cab sealed up with primer.

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when you weld the panels on, does the epoxy burn off at the welds? if so, is the backside accessible to recoat?
Great work!
 
when you weld the panels on, does the epoxy burn off at the welds? if so, is the backside accessible to recoat?
Great work!

I need to drill some access holes in the back panel underneath but I’ll do that on the rotisserie
 
Is it perfect? Nope. Will it need some filler? Yup. Do I care? Nope, the rust and collision damage is gone though. Do the rear piece tomorrow and the inner floor extension..

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well lets talk mud , i coated this whole car nose to butt rockers to top of the hood with mud can blocked it out added the custom stuff to this 49 merc rag copped and z'd , from a sows ear to well , ..... it was 59 cad taillites , no clue what they are , 54 imp grille , ect.....

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Last patch cut and epoxy primer drying on backside. Thought the rotted bed supports would be hard to get out but an air hammer made quick work of them. The replacements are from a van. Same part but in a van they are not exposed to the weather and rarely are rusted. Never had a torch to use in the past. Things can get out of hand quickly.

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Passengers side is RUST FREE. My conscience is likely partially disappointed in how I did it but at some point you have to say this is not a seven figure or even a six figure car and it’s time to trade metal work effort for bodywork effort. It is close but more importantly there is no rust and the filler required is not out of line with a quality job. Just need to finish stripping the box side and then let it down and finish welding the inner panel lip and then the floor extension.

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Forgot I also got the first level of making the interior nice and straight. Wanted to have this done before I put the roof back on, much easier to sand.

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Hope to be stopping by your place again last weekend in Sept as we will be at the Duct Tape Drags.
 
Yes, Either the 67 Fastback or 68 Fairlane. Wont have enough time to finish the 71 Swinger and do shakedown run after No Name Nationals the weekend before.
 
I can’t believe this total disaster side is basically done. Need to fab up an end cap for then “box” and install the lower curved corner inner trim piece but other than that it is better than new. What a long journey.

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So close….. got an adapter to get my 3/8 air gun on the impact driver screwdriver bit. It hit that one too soon and the metal was too hot. Got the rest out after a fashion though. Anyone have one to spare?

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