1966 dart convertible

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Any idea where this little fella goes? I thought the trans linkage but it's not shown in the book??
Thanks
 

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Having trouble with the doors. Seems the star wheel on the rotors are worn out or have a flat spot. Doors close good every second or third try. If you manually turn the rotor before closing, it works good more or less. I have adjusted the crap out of the doors and the strikers? So, the question is, "is there any way to rebuild the rotor/door mechanism? I haven't really looked, but can't believe that anyone would repop them. I'm afraid to buy a used set, install them and have them be worse than the set that's on there now.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Jim
 

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Try to get a new set on eBay (NOS) they arn't so expensive. Otherwise a set of good used one. Requires just a picture from the side so you can see if there is a gap on the rotor!
 
I'm having a hell of a time closing the doors with the windlace in place. Specifically the top 4 or 5 inches on the B pillar. Any one else have this problem? When I peel it back a bit, the door closes fine. The end is open to let air escape. Has any one had this problem? Please help if you have.
Thanks.
Jim
 
pyrojim said:
I'm having a hell of a time closing the doors with the windlace in place. Specifically the top 4 or 5 inches on the B pillar. Any one else have this problem? When I peel it back a bit, the door closes fine. The end is open to let air escape. Has any one had this problem? Please help if you have.
Thanks.
Jim
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good to hear your back and working on the dart.. me, well I'm still in Michigan. The new windlace is going to take time to crush enough to conform to the opening. mine took over 6 months to fit right. My top b pillar was out a bit and when I adjusted for that the bottom was out! On the next dart I do I'm going to take a cinder block Or 2 and place it over the last foot on the B pillar side BEFORE I even take the car apart. hopefully it should be crushed enough to let the doo close by the time I get to assembly.

can't help with the clip in the first pic , I had the wife go out look at her dart.. the steering box coupling is the only place the steering wheel shaft is grounded. every where else on the steering column is gasketed or isolated.

I'm wondering if the rear strikers from a 4 door would work for you latch problem they don't get used that much but they probably are a different shape and I'm 12 hundred miles from my cars right now . :banghead: and the wife is taking classes for Tax time all week.
 
Thanks guys. Was taking a break Kurt. I went to berlin, Prague and Paris on vacation. It was nice except for Paris, that was a dump.
That's the exact problem, when I adjust the latches the bottom if the door sticks out. Wonder if..... I glued the top 5 or 6 inches flat and drilled some small (1/8") holes in the bottom of the wind lace for air to escape?? Other than that. Getting closer.
Best way to adjust the windows? I'm guessing wing window, door glass then quarter glass??? That's giving me fits too!
Next time, it'll be a hardtop!!
Don't forget to swing by if you have time. After all this time in Michigan I'm sure you're ready to get home!!
Jim
 
pyrojim said:
Thanks guys. Was taking a break Kurt. I went to berlin, Prague and Paris on vacation. It was nice except for Paris, that was a dump. That's the exact problem, when I adjust the latches the bottom if the door sticks out. Wonder if..... I glued the top 5 or 6 inches flat and drilled some small (1/8") holes in the bottom of the wind lace for air to escape?? Other than that. Getting closer. Best way to adjust the windows? I'm guessing wing window, door glass then quarter glass??? That's giving me fits too! Next time, it'll be a hardtop!! Don't forget to swing by if you have time. After all this time in Michigan I'm sure you're ready to get home!! Jim
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Nice vacation. I've been to England(saw family for a week and was ready to go home,they think I'm weird and are probably right.) and Paris for a day so I didn't get to see much there(paris). England Ale was AWESOME. but their coffee sucked. Tea is an afternoon or night thing for me NOT breakfast. but I had fun. Prague sounded nice but the time and money didn't work out for me maybe one day.
I know about taking a break, but going to Michigan SUCKS (as a break from car work)this time of year for me.. I don't like cold and am feeling it here. If the doors are not right you are not going to get your windows right. (don't ask me how I know):D you could try the squish method BUT it might let in water when it rains. I just waited mine out and then adjusted the doors a little bit each week till they were flush. My windows are not adjusted to the top yet since I haven't put on the top yet. but on the wife's car that I need to restore still I did have to adjust the glass on the passengers side door since I put on a new door. I adjusted wing vent to A- pillar,door glass to top and wing vent (pain in the behind) and finally the rear quarter window to door glass and top. if they have been out then you have a long process ahead of you to align them up. Lots of trial and error even with the service manual to go from. A friend of mine swears by the hair drier or heat gun method, but I'd be worried about the paint bubbling due to heat. I plan on stopping by for a visit if I can ever get this house done hopefully before snow flies :shaking: hardtop ain't no easier since you have to adjust the same either way except to the top section being removable..
 
Thanks Kurt. Got em pretty close, not perfect, but pretty close. Started at the vent and worked backwards. Tired of that. Going yo finish the wiring and get it running. Then the interior. Still lots to do but coming along. Again, thanks for all your help!
 

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Ok. While dressing pout the engine, I found out I have two radiators, both for 273 engines? So, I'm tired of digging stuff up, does anyone know what radiator I need for a 318 that is a direct fit for the 66 dart??? Running a five blade clutch fan.
Thanks.
 
So I stopped hemmin and hawin and came up with this for the rear speakers.
 

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pyrojim said:
So I stopped hemmin and hawin and came up with this for the rear speakers.
Click to expand...

That looks like a great place for convertible speakers!
Took a bit to figure out it was the rear seat cushion with the speakers facing forward.
 
How do I identify parts???? I googled the mopar parts search, drew a blank. Trying to figure out if this is the correct shroud? Part #s say.
3869812
78071
Nothing comes up???????
It's a 22" radiator I think for a 273. Had the lower hose inlet placed on the correct side. Bolts up, but fan and shroud aren't working out?
Thanks
 

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Partnumber starting with 38 xx *** started in the early 70ies. At that time the 273 was replaced with the 318,340 or 360.
 
pyrojim said:
A look from the inside.
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Those look Good! I had to adjust mine since I went with the 97 sebring rear seat also. I'm still tweaking my rear seat mounting in order to get some bigger speakers in there. You do know that the front kickpanel speakers are slim line ones about 1.9 or so deep? Most department store speakers will fit(boss, alpine and pioneer 4 inch'rs from target, walmart and sears work). 2" from the mounting base to the bottom of the magnet just clears the inner metal wall.


I'm making a mold,(if I can ever get home) that is a bit deeper for 2.5 to 2.9 deep 4 inch speakers. these deep ones look a bit different and a 4x6 speaker (again slimline only for right now). let me know if you need either one of those kick panels in place of the slimline 4" rounds. it might take a bit but they will be done.

Car looks GREAT! I wish mine comes out close to as nice as yours is.
 
66Dvert said:
Those look Good! I had to adjust mine since I went with the 97 sebring rear seat also. I'm still tweaking my rear seat mounting in order to get some bigger speakers in there. You do know that the front kickpanel speakers are slim line ones about 1.9 or so deep? Most department store speakers will fit(boss, alpine and pioneer 4 inch'rs from target, walmart and sears work). 2" from the mounting base to the bottom of the magnet just clears the inner metal wall. I'm making a mold,(if I can ever get home) that is a bit deeper for 2.5 to 2.9 deep 4 inch speakers. these deep ones look a bit different and a 4x6 speaker (again slimline only for right now). let me know if you need either one of those kick panels in place of the slimline 4" rounds. it might take a bit but they will be done. Car looks GREAT! I wish mine comes out close to as nice as yours is.
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LOL.
I do, I do. I gad a set of polk audio I wanted to use, cut a spacer because the magnet was too deep! But, If you get around to it, I would be in for a set!!
 
pyrojim said:
LOL. I do, I do. I gad a set of polk audio I wanted to use, cut a spacer because the magnet was too deep! But, If you get around to it, I would be in for a set!!
Click to expand...
How was the fit to the door jamb? did they line up right for you? send PIC"S PLEASE yours was the first set out and I'd like to see em. Can you give me a measurement from the bottom mounting face to the magnet and when I get home I'll setup the molds and see what happens. View attachment !!!mounting location depth for speakers.jpg .. . if they are more than 3.5 deep they'll look funny since the angle of the cone mounting pod will be way too steep.(been thinking about a fix for that problem too!:D) since our kick panels are smaller than the later model cars. I'm already working on a 3 incher so that might be what you need. . as you can sortof see the base for this will be 3.something or other add 1/8 for the abs and it's over 3 inches in depth. View attachment DSCF4542.jpg . the cone shape goes all the way from fromt to back using this angle. I tried steeper ones and they looked "wrong" .View attachment DSCF4538.jpg.. . I did realise that you could put in those small remote speakers that come with some setups in the cone section since now at 3 inches tall, they would fit and not hit the main speaker. View attachment DSCF4543.jpg. this might be the setup I end up going with since I already have one mold almost done.
 
pyrojim said:
Any idea where this little fella goes? I thought the trans linkage but it's not shown in the book??Thanks
Click to expand...

I was thinking that this goes over a ear on the transmission, drivers side. Something to do with one of the linkages. Is your car a floor shift? I was thinking it was to keep the linkage from moving around and rubbing on the aluminum housing.
 
B-onefan said:
I was thinking that this goes over a ear on the transmission, drivers side. Something to do with one of the linkages. Is your car a floor shift? I was thinking it was to keep the linkage from moving around and rubbing on the aluminum housing.
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Nah, there's an ear under the trans that a bracket bolts to. That's what keeps the torque shaft straight. It may not even be for the car? I bought it as a basket case and had LOTS of extra stuff. Very confusing for my first (and probably last) project!
 
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