Ohhh those wheels are soo sexy.... I almost went with a wheel that was similar version of that for my D100.
1966 Dart GT-it begins
- Thread starter mike240
- Start date
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Mini tub I presume. 10" wide? (wheel and tread) Looks great!
Man if you can make them work they will sure be sweet!
Cley
Cley
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Those looks awesome! I love tall wide tires on these little early A's. Hopefully you can take them on/off without too much effort. That's the problem I have with 315/60's on my '66. They sure look good though.
I am about to make some rigid wheel cribs to I can set them up and check clearance for ride height so I can measure for a new 9” rear end. I have the QA1 rear coil
Over set up to mock up except for pinion angle. Figure with tall cribs I can drop it down while still on rotisserie to get weight on suspension. Same with the HDK front setup. Need to get weight on it after rebuilding the door hinges so I can hang them and fender to check body lines and start body work. Considering just seam sealing and spraying black epoxy over the red epoxy for the bottom side. Should be good enough for a fair weather street car in dry arizona.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
if you're minitubbing anyway you may as well cut the outer half free from the 1/4 panel and move it all up. then your pic could be ride height before any suspension movement 
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neil.
.neil.
Got a grill! A few small things to correct but it sure beats the one I had. The bezels are rough shape but mine are pretty good.
Altered my brake pedal for new Mopar cover. Made the curved plate for the gas pedal too but haven’t finished how I will mount to the “stem”.
Altered my brake pedal for new Mopar cover. Made the curved plate for the gas pedal too but haven’t finished how I will mount to the “stem”.
Seam sealing with 3m 8368 inside and out.
Now when it comes to panel skin over the core (doors, trunk etc), where the quarter meets the rocker behind the door and the rain gutters…what product should I be using? Thanks
Now when it comes to panel skin over the core (doors, trunk etc), where the quarter meets the rocker behind the door and the rain gutters…what product should I be using? Thanks
Joe Mc
No Car Like A MoPar!
Nice work.
I don't know how you get anything done in that heat, your lows are hotter than our high temps.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Nice work! Where do you plan on running the electrical through to the engine bay?
I will be using a Painless wiring harness. 1 1/4” hole on far driver’s side and run along the inner fender as the original was. Likely drill and grommet a hidden hole near center for the engine specific wires. Will try for a very clean look.
Wind picked up. As did swathing the field across the creek so no spraying today. Remembered I wanted to smooth out the visible frame rail tops.
Much respect to body shop guys!
Wind picked up. As did swathing the field across the creek so no spraying today. Remembered I wanted to smooth out the visible frame rail tops.
Much respect to body shop guys!
About the grill , this was my original grill it took a bird strike to the Drivers side outer section years ago . So on this redo I was able to push it out by hand to get to line up with the center section . The black paint is over etching primer , the silver paint matches the Rally wheels . I used Chrome paint around the headlight . I'm still putting it back together after paint .
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Just more random stuff. Need to clean up some things.
If someone is doing and Oem restore and wants the plastic inspection card pop riveted to the glove box door, let me know. One corner chipped but removed without further damage when I drilled the rivets.
If someone is doing and Oem restore and wants the plastic inspection card pop riveted to the glove box door, let me know. One corner chipped but removed without further damage when I drilled the rivets.
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