1966 Dart GT-it begins
- Thread starter mike240
- Start date
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rod7515
Well-Known Member
Nice work on what appears to have been a very clean car. I did a very similar dash change to my 66 Dart. It makes a very nice look. I also did the spring move and went with an 8 3/4 rear. Im considering the rear disc conversion and ebrake upgrade. Best of luck on your build. You can find my resto thread as well. I have a ton of pics.
Rod
Rod
All the metal work is done on the body!!!!
Wanted to clean the look of the engine compartment more. Since the HDK kit uses the OEM shock tower the opening is larger than needed. So I took measurements and milled spacers to tack weld to the tower top then filled the inner fender so a solid torque can be done still.
Finally completed the rear of the wheel tub to the trunk floor. Filled all the holes not needed in the frame rail since auto cars still had holes for clutch linkage etc.
Probably some finish grinding. Need a final inspection. On the dash as the two rectangular AC vent inserts should arrive today. One fender needs some work…
Wanted to clean the look of the engine compartment more. Since the HDK kit uses the OEM shock tower the opening is larger than needed. So I took measurements and milled spacers to tack weld to the tower top then filled the inner fender so a solid torque can be done still.
Finally completed the rear of the wheel tub to the trunk floor. Filled all the holes not needed in the frame rail since auto cars still had holes for clutch linkage etc.
Probably some finish grinding. Need a final inspection. On the dash as the two rectangular AC vent inserts should arrive today. One fender needs some work…
Since I guess I couldn’t stop and leave it alone, I got up and blasted and Upol copper primed the pan for sub frame connectors. They arrived from USCT late this afternoon. So I got the inside of them cleaned and primed.
I know there will be a lot of fitting involved but I think they look best….after about 18 feet of weld!
I know there will be a lot of fitting involved but I think they look best….after about 18 feet of weld!
Love the way those are designed and look once installed. Like they left the factory that way. That copper prime is a great idea.
Joe Mc
No Car Like A MoPar!
Dude, not only are you sick, but...you ain't right. I like it
Back at it after four days of fitting and welding a large dog run with and at my son’s (fit for a grizzly bear but I tend to over build).
Made a large C clamp to help hold the connector and to move along to compress the floor to it. A lot of fitting but nothing can get that floor dow to meet it spots. And since it is on the rotisserie, piling sacks of concrete or something wont feel right. That and I will do anything to avoid welding on my back. The 5” flat bar foot used on the inner floorboard is not shown.
Made a large C clamp to help hold the connector and to move along to compress the floor to it. A lot of fitting but nothing can get that floor dow to meet it spots. And since it is on the rotisserie, piling sacks of concrete or something wont feel right. That and I will do anything to avoid welding on my back. The 5” flat bar foot used on the inner floorboard is not shown.
Joe Mc
No Car Like A MoPar!
That there is on heck of a clamp
Frame connectors are complete.
Cleaning up some cosmetic stuff. Going to use gas struts so cleaning up the under the hood look. Going to drill out and plug the hole where the hood torsion bars hook through. Will re work the hinges to eliminate that too.
Cleaning up some cosmetic stuff. Going to use gas struts so cleaning up the under the hood look. Going to drill out and plug the hole where the hood torsion bars hook through. Will re work the hinges to eliminate that too.
Martythetrimmer
Well-Known Member
I've done similar to my Aussie 1967 Dodge ute. Below is a link to my build page, some of the ideas from post #263 on may be of interest! I mounted my gas struts to the hood instead of the hinge as I'm looking at boxing behind the kick panels for a speaker enclosure. So the struts can't mount in that cavity as many do.
Aussie VC 67 Dodge ute
Aussie VC 67 Dodge ute
Just done little things not worth much mention. Filled the hood torsion bar holes in and got a “mock box” from Restomod Air for the Bantam system that will go in. Needed to locate and install weld in studs. Continuing work on the hood hinges for gas struts. Blasted the dash and sprayed SPI red oxide epoxy. The color is similar to the old Cinnamon Stick…and I might like that!
Blasting and spraying….Have to do it in sections. It would take too long and leave bare metal exposed too long for me otherwise. And the more it rotated the more media falls out. Once I get it all done inside and out and bottom I can vac and blow it all out, wash, seam seal, wash, sand and wash then spray again in black epoxy. Be glad when this stage is done. Then start filler and block work.
Recommendations for body filler?
Haven’t decided between build a clean/spray booth or try an inflatable.
Recommendations for body filler?
Haven’t decided between build a clean/spray booth or try an inflatable.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
while it's like that with good access i'd paint the back of the dash and the bulkhead behind the dash white. if you've ever had to fault find up behind an installed dash you'll know why, lol. it's out of sight until you 'need' to look there and visibility is vastly improved.
neil.
neil.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
it doesn't even matter if you brush it on to prevent any overspray as it won't be seen.
neil.
neil.
Joe Mc
No Car Like A MoPar!
Thoughts on - build a clean spray booth or an inflatable.
- Inflatables look pretty cool, on TV, but they never show aftermath = how to clean it...
- I'd think if you built your own you could save $$$ for something else and when you're all done painting just throw away the plastic sheeting.
Official 110f. On concrete, no shade and reflective heat from stucco house make things tough.
Welding up other door surprises after blasting. Mini needle scaler is able to get the sound deadener out of 90% of the inner doors, working at angles through the holes. Finish with a long narrow scraper. Little stud welder work, some reblast and i to epoxy.
Hood and half the interior and trunk left!
Welding up other door surprises after blasting. Mini needle scaler is able to get the sound deadener out of 90% of the inner doors, working at angles through the holes. Finish with a long narrow scraper. Little stud welder work, some reblast and i to epoxy.
Hood and half the interior and trunk left!
Did a small metal patch n the top of a fender yesterday that was exposed when blasting. Need to find some smaller projects to work on that can be done in the air conditioned side of the shop. Things are hot!
Did get my wheels. Tires arrive today. Need them ready for when I can get some interior blasting done and the remaining epoxy laid so I can mock up suspension, measure for the new rear diff and let the car bear weight.
Did get my wheels. Tires arrive today. Need them ready for when I can get some interior blasting done and the remaining epoxy laid so I can mock up suspension, measure for the new rear diff and let the car bear weight.
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