Nice.....
1968 Barracuda Notch - Plano, TX
- Thread starter mosleyme
- Start date
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TexasDart
Well-Known Member
Looking great. Let me know if you need any assistance...I can at least come over sit in it and go varoom varoom.
ECPJT
Member
the new stance looks good!
I found a little bit of time in the garage today.
Started mocking up the front of the engine and working out some issues / ideas.
The water pump housing does not clear the crank trigger wheel on the balancer. It is not by much, I will be able to clearance it.
I installed the lifters, pushrods, and rockers.
The balancer is different than stock by about 5/8". Means I will have to get a different crank pulley. They make one that is 1" shorter than stock, so I can buy that one and space it out to line up with the water pump pulley. I could also take that opportunity to take some material off the back of the water pump housing and make more room for a radiator fan. Hmmm... I need to get the other accessories and start mocking it all up to see what room I have and if I could pull that off. Pulling the water pump housing back will also help the balancer clearance issue, guess I will stop grinding on it until I decide which way that is heading. I have removed 5/16" off the back of a water pump housing before, so I know it is no big deal, that is how you modify one when you have a motor plate and want the water pump to end up in the same spot.
Water pump housing and water pump will be painted Orange before they are bolted in place. The headers are just there for mock up, looking at how the new dipstick tube fits in and how the angle plugs work out. The angle plugs make header clearance much easier it appears! I also have a monster set of 2" CPPA headers up in the attic. If I have a chance tomorrow I will put the mounts and K-frame in place on some wood blocks and look at the headers / K-frame / steering box situation. What is unfortunate is that this engine probably wants a 1-7/8" header, so I will probably have to make my own.
Started mocking up the front of the engine and working out some issues / ideas.
The water pump housing does not clear the crank trigger wheel on the balancer. It is not by much, I will be able to clearance it.
I installed the lifters, pushrods, and rockers.
The balancer is different than stock by about 5/8". Means I will have to get a different crank pulley. They make one that is 1" shorter than stock, so I can buy that one and space it out to line up with the water pump pulley. I could also take that opportunity to take some material off the back of the water pump housing and make more room for a radiator fan. Hmmm... I need to get the other accessories and start mocking it all up to see what room I have and if I could pull that off. Pulling the water pump housing back will also help the balancer clearance issue, guess I will stop grinding on it until I decide which way that is heading. I have removed 5/16" off the back of a water pump housing before, so I know it is no big deal, that is how you modify one when you have a motor plate and want the water pump to end up in the same spot.
Water pump housing and water pump will be painted Orange before they are bolted in place. The headers are just there for mock up, looking at how the new dipstick tube fits in and how the angle plugs work out. The angle plugs make header clearance much easier it appears! I also have a monster set of 2" CPPA headers up in the attic. If I have a chance tomorrow I will put the mounts and K-frame in place on some wood blocks and look at the headers / K-frame / steering box situation. What is unfortunate is that this engine probably wants a 1-7/8" header, so I will probably have to make my own.
Working through all the issues...
Antenna is installed, radio is on order.
Engine is sitting on the K-Frame, steering box is installed. Pilot bearing and flywheel installed.
Schumaker headers do not clear the steering box as is, CPPA 2" not even close.
Bellhousing is not concentric to the flywheel. Offset dowel pins on order... want to get the engine and trans situated in the car with the radiator and then work out the accessory drive, the headers, the fan... I want to get the transmission aligned, sort out the throw out bearing depth, and install the clutch assembly. After the clutch is in I will attach the transmission to the bell housing and the whole assembly can be slid under the car.
Making headers for this is going to be an interesting exersize as well. I may buy the RobbMC starter to get some more room.
Antenna is installed, radio is on order.
Engine is sitting on the K-Frame, steering box is installed. Pilot bearing and flywheel installed.
Schumaker headers do not clear the steering box as is, CPPA 2" not even close.
Bellhousing is not concentric to the flywheel. Offset dowel pins on order... want to get the engine and trans situated in the car with the radiator and then work out the accessory drive, the headers, the fan... I want to get the transmission aligned, sort out the throw out bearing depth, and install the clutch assembly. After the clutch is in I will attach the transmission to the bell housing and the whole assembly can be slid under the car.
Making headers for this is going to be an interesting exersize as well. I may buy the RobbMC starter to get some more room.
FYI - don't know if y'all are aware of this:
Old Mopars are real easy to pre-oil. I recently was doing a lot of manual turning of the engine by hand. Since the engine has been sitting a while I pre-oiled it first.
Pull the distributor, then pull the intermediate shaft with a pair of needle nose. One 3/8" hex shaft and a 20 year old 800 rpm electric drill. Spins the oil pump faster than if the car was at idle (oil pump spins at camshaft speed). Spin the hex the same way the distributor turns. Rotate the engine slowly by hand to push oil to all the galleries. Just have to know which way the intermediate and distributor was pointing. I mark the distributor at TDC and make a note on the intermediate shaft angle.
Only takes 5 minutes, a 1/2" wrench, and a pair of needle nose to set up. Only thing I had to buy was the hex shaft. I wrapped the hex shaft with masking tape in the area where it passes through the bushing in case it happens to touch. This will be really handy for prefilling Accusump, oil cooler, and remote filter set-up.
Old Mopars are real easy to pre-oil. I recently was doing a lot of manual turning of the engine by hand. Since the engine has been sitting a while I pre-oiled it first.
Pull the distributor, then pull the intermediate shaft with a pair of needle nose. One 3/8" hex shaft and a 20 year old 800 rpm electric drill. Spins the oil pump faster than if the car was at idle (oil pump spins at camshaft speed). Spin the hex the same way the distributor turns. Rotate the engine slowly by hand to push oil to all the galleries. Just have to know which way the intermediate and distributor was pointing. I mark the distributor at TDC and make a note on the intermediate shaft angle.
Only takes 5 minutes, a 1/2" wrench, and a pair of needle nose to set up. Only thing I had to buy was the hex shaft. I wrapped the hex shaft with masking tape in the area where it passes through the bushing in case it happens to touch. This will be really handy for prefilling Accusump, oil cooler, and remote filter set-up.
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
NICE BUILD!!!
Let me know if and when you sell your doctor diff brake kit, i am interested.
Did some more measuring, the bellhousing face was out of parallel by quite a bit, 0.006" from left to right across the 4" sweep of the machined face around the transmission input bearing. At 16" across the mounting surface that adds up to a difference of 0.024". I experimented with shims on the left, and came up with a combination that gave me a runout of just over 0.001". I then remeasured TIR on the bearing bore. It was about 0.042" before and 0.006" after. Spec is 0.010". So one way to think about it, if I was looking down on the transmission the tailshaft would have been off to the left. Now, it is pretty straight.
Another issue I ran into, the factory dowels are 0.496", the Quicktime bellhousing is set up for 0.500". I had to drill out, tap, and use a slide hammer to pull one of them. I bought some 0.500" dowel tooling pins, sanded the OD of the end down a little and smacked them with a hammer and a drift a few times. The bellhousing fits over the dowels snugly now.
I installed the twin disc clutch assembly today. That went pretty easy. Next I will re-install the bellhousing to measure, set-up, and install the throw out bearing. Once that is done I will attach the transmission and roll it under the car.
Another issue I ran into, the factory dowels are 0.496", the Quicktime bellhousing is set up for 0.500". I had to drill out, tap, and use a slide hammer to pull one of them. I bought some 0.500" dowel tooling pins, sanded the OD of the end down a little and smacked them with a hammer and a drift a few times. The bellhousing fits over the dowels snugly now.
I installed the twin disc clutch assembly today. That went pretty easy. Next I will re-install the bellhousing to measure, set-up, and install the throw out bearing. Once that is done I will attach the transmission and roll it under the car.
SNKEBIT
Spending $$ on Mopars
Who made the twin disc?rayer:
rayer:Who made the twin disc?
It is the "Atomic Twin" clutch, American Powertrain sells it as their house brand "Science Friction". It is a twin disc ceramic progressive that is supposed to be able to handle over 1000 ft-lb of torque. The progressive part gives it a softer initial bite, it engages one disc slightly before the other.
My car falls into this no mans land where the single disc clutches that can handle the torque are very stiff and have a harsh engagement. This clutch does not require as stiff a pressure plate because the holding force is spread across two clutch discs. It is also not a "typical" button style circle track multi-disc that is on/off like a light switch.
I guess we will see.
68cuda05gto
Well-Known Member
That ricks tank! is it a tank you had them build for you? Or is it for some other vehicle?
I had them make it for me.
68cuda05gto
Well-Known Member
what gallon is it?
I estimate it is close to 32 gallons.
Tim Grainger had one made for his car, I talked to Hector and made a few changes for mine. Tim's tank comes up into the trunk 2" and is 29" wide. His tank is roughly 28 gallons. His is shown starting on post #66: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=112873
I had them use the same profile under the floor, but changed two key things. I had it come up 4" into the trunk so it sits about level with the floor where it comes up over the rear axle, and I had them narrow it to 24". I plan to make a raised floor 4" tall that will be flat across the trunk from side to side front to rear. Under the floor I will run all the electronics and anything else I wish to hide. So, once the floor is in place the only thing visible will be the filler neck. This is why I had the tank come up 4". The width I had narrowed to make room for the exhaust between the frame and the tank. Between the frame rails in the back the space is 34" wide. My springs mount into the frame. So the only place left to run exhaust is between the tank and the frame if I want the exhaust to come out the rear. 29" would have only left me with 2-1/2" clearance on either side of the tank, not enough room for a 3" pipe. 24" gives me 5" between the tank and the frame. Now I have room to tuck the pipes between the frame, springs, and the tank. The pictures below show my mock up of a "Accurate Exhaust" 3" stainless Barracuda exhaust tip between the frame, spring and tank looking from the rear and from the front.
You could leave the tank the same way Tim did it, then narrow it for exhaust clearance, it would still be over 20 gallons. I wanted the extra capacity for long road trips and the possibility I would run E-85. If you run E-85 you will use more fuel, and there are fewer gas stations with E-85 so you have to know where they are and plan accordingly.
68cuda05gto
Well-Known Member
Thank you, I run E85 in my turbo GTO so I would also like a big tank to carry the fuel for my E85 barracuda turbo build also! Thanks for the info. You have really thought ahead, I would have never thought about raising the floor to hide electronics
If you measure the hump where the rear shocks bolt in it is about 4" taller than the floor behind it. The in tank fuel pump sits in a recess that sits flush with the existing floor, that makes it 4" lower than the surrounding tank. Now I can make aluminum panels held in place with dzus fasteners to create a floor with several compartments. Use some simple aluminum C-channel bolted to the floor around the perimeter and a few other spots to act as supports. Put some dynamat on top and some carpet. Simple, clean, and will also function as a firewall between the fuel system and the passenger compartment. I have not decided yet where I will put the fuel filter, but it may not be an issue for it to be between the tank and the shock mounts.
The trunk will still be plenty big enough that I can put a spare. I will get a reasonably sized "space saver" make a mount for it, and put a cover on it.
A battery is about 8" tall. So I would make a pocket for it to sit in on the far right. May or may not hide it.
I was planning on installing the transmission today and putting the engine and trans under the car tomorrow. The best laid schemes of mice and men / Often go awry.
Depth of clutch plate from transmission mounting surface was 3". From the transmission to the throw out bearing was 1.7". That is a difference of 1.3". The required clearance is 0.15" to 0.2". The kit comes with 10 spacers of 0.090" each, using all ten I would still have 0.400" of clearance, or about 0.250" too much. I called the tech support line. Apparently I need the 0.500" spacer behind the "bearing retainer" which will ship Monday.
Depth of clutch plate from transmission mounting surface was 3". From the transmission to the throw out bearing was 1.7". That is a difference of 1.3". The required clearance is 0.15" to 0.2". The kit comes with 10 spacers of 0.090" each, using all ten I would still have 0.400" of clearance, or about 0.250" too much. I called the tech support line. Apparently I need the 0.500" spacer behind the "bearing retainer" which will ship Monday.
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
You mentioned that you liked the dark green metallic paint you found behind the splash pan.
That is very likely the F8 Dark Metallic green (or Ivy Green Poly depending on whether it was a Dodge or a Plymouth)that was on a LOT of Mopars in 68-70. You also said you might use a GM color because it was 'Readily Available'. I recently painted my 69 FB in the F8 Dark metallic green and I got my paint from a place called TCP Global (Tri Cities Paint. Look them up on the internet. They will mix any color from any car/year you want, and their prices are very Reasonable. I have used Dupont, PPG and other name brand paints, and I would compare their house brand (I bet it is a PPG product, since they are PPG dealers) to any paint I have ever used. Check out the results:
That is very likely the F8 Dark Metallic green (or Ivy Green Poly depending on whether it was a Dodge or a Plymouth)that was on a LOT of Mopars in 68-70. You also said you might use a GM color because it was 'Readily Available'. I recently painted my 69 FB in the F8 Dark metallic green and I got my paint from a place called TCP Global (Tri Cities Paint. Look them up on the internet. They will mix any color from any car/year you want, and their prices are very Reasonable. I have used Dupont, PPG and other name brand paints, and I would compare their house brand (I bet it is a PPG product, since they are PPG dealers) to any paint I have ever used. Check out the results:
The car has been painted for almost 9 months now... too late! Mine is '68. The color code is GG1; F8, F9 etcetera did not come on cars until '69. The paint I went with is WA9529. The old paint was an Enamel. The car is not a restoration project. I wanted a base coat / clear coat polyurethane paint job. When you change to the base coat / clear coat the colors look different. This GM paint code looks very close to the original. If you put them side by side you probably would not be able to tell the difference. I also have the benefit of being able to pick up a touch up pen from the auto parts store if needed.
Check out the results: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=1970471762&postcount=296
76orangewagon
Well-Known Member
Can't wait to see everything sitting between the fenders, the EFI six pack set-up is awesome.
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