Worked on the car for a little this morning before going to the Mopars at the Motorplex. Mocked up the master cylinder and installed the front brake lines. Lines to the master needed some tweaking because the master is offset. Much easier to install lines before the engine is in the car. FedEx guy showed up with new rear rotors. Put one next to a front rotor to take a picture.
1968 Barracuda Notch - Plano, TX
- Thread starter mosleyme
- Start date
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dale_brennon
Well-Known Member
I was at the Mopar's at the Motorplex. Have to say I was really disappointed by the amount of people that were there. I traveled from Houston, and was really looking forward to the swap meet, very disappointed when I got there. What did you think about it? I enjoyed the races, but I wish there would have been more parts for sale.
I really only went to watch cars race and see a few cars. It was a relatively small showing, but a lot of things going on this weekend. I ran into a few friends caught up a little, met a few new folks. We showed up a little late, but it was worth the trip.
Looks even better in its new home! Congrats on the milestone!
clair.davis
catching up...
That wonderful green makes the orange even more orange... Can't wait to see this in the metal...
roccodart440
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2010
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Love that intake and throttle body setup
68cuda05gto
Well-Known Member
Can't wait to see the finished driving cuda! Where did you get the lip splitter that's on your valance from?
famous bob
mopar misfit
:coffee2:
been following your build. close to mine, yours is a lot nicer and a little more $$ tho.
looks outstanding! always scared me to see the intake ports left open, always stuffed paper towels in them, afraid a nut or something would find it`s way in there! ever drop a valve? about the same effect! keep on, diggin it !
I am starting to think that there are no parts made that simply bolt on to this car.
Installed the new starter... that involved an hour or more of grinding the block and fit testing. Apparently a 440 block is different in the starter area than a low deck. Starter can be clocked in any orientation you want.
Installed the steering box. Since it witnessed grinder love on the block it wanted in on the action too. I had to grind on the new steering box to clear the engine mounts.
Then fitted the Firm Feel "Sector Support Kit". Angle on the bracket did not match the angle on the K-frame lip. Grabbed the lip with a large pipe wrench and used a 3 pound hammer to adjust the angle on the lip. Lined up the bracket, punched two holes in the lip on the K, and bolted it down.
Power steering pump showed up in the mail on Saturday. Now I need a pulley for it. Shaft is the less common 0.663" which uses a roller bearing. Of course I will have to make some brackets for it...
Installed the new starter... that involved an hour or more of grinding the block and fit testing. Apparently a 440 block is different in the starter area than a low deck. Starter can be clocked in any orientation you want.
Installed the steering box. Since it witnessed grinder love on the block it wanted in on the action too. I had to grind on the new steering box to clear the engine mounts.
Then fitted the Firm Feel "Sector Support Kit". Angle on the bracket did not match the angle on the K-frame lip. Grabbed the lip with a large pipe wrench and used a 3 pound hammer to adjust the angle on the lip. Lined up the bracket, punched two holes in the lip on the K, and bolted it down.
Power steering pump showed up in the mail on Saturday. Now I need a pulley for it. Shaft is the less common 0.663" which uses a roller bearing. Of course I will have to make some brackets for it...
cuda20
Well-Known Member
It's coming together. Looks sharp.
Somehow found an hour today. Installed the idler arm, center link and tie rods. The idler uses the roller bearing conversion from Firm Feel. You use 0, 1, or 2 shims w/ the inner sleeve. Using one had some play, 2 would not fit. Touched the inner sleeve with the sander to shorten it a small amount so that the stack with 2 shims was snug.
Clean brake line install.
Yes no engine makes putting them in easy, just finished mine up today.
Why did you use Teflon tape on a flare fitting?
To me you would be tacking a chance of a small piece of Teflon getting in the brake system.
It is not tape, definitely not getting inside. Permatex® Thread Sealant with PTFE
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...ants/permatex-thread-sealant-with-ptfe-detail
"Economical general-purpose fitting sealant. Outperforms tapes and pipe dopes. Seals and resists pressure in air, oil, diesel fuel and hydraulic systems. Remains pliable at higher and lower temperatures. Temperature range -65°F to 300°F (-54°C to 149°C); resists common shop fluids. Permatex® Thread Sealants seal and secure metal pipes and fittings. By filling the space between threaded metal parts, Thread Sealants cure to a pliable seal to prevent leakage caused by vibration loosening, tape shredding, solvent evaporation, damaged threads, and temperature cycling. Designed for low and high pressure applications, Thread Sealants seal instantly for on-line low pressure testing. When fully cured, they seal to the burst strength of most piping systems. The high lubricating properties of Permatex® Thread Sealants ease assembly and prevent galling of the threads. For system repairs, parts may be disassembled with basic hand tools"
Passenger side suspension and front brakes put together. Still need to tighten things to spec, but torsion bar is in, front brakes fitted up. As usual, ran into a few little issues. Had to take a file to the spindle, it had a raised edge on the back surface that would not let the caliper bracket fit flat. Getting the t-bar in and indexed properly was a bear. I still need to knock the bar in the final 1/2", but everything is in now.
Also ran into an issue with the wheel. The wheel does not clear the hub. I would have to run about 1/8" of a spacer, or 3mm, or I would have to have the inside bore on the wheel machined at least 0.080" deeper to clear the nose of the hub. It would not sit down tight on the brake rotor! For the moment, since it will be in the garage for a while still, I put a cheap 8mm AutoZone spacer I had in my tool box behind the wheel.
Wow... that was too much work for what it was. Working on the garage floor is not pleasant.
Also ran into an issue with the wheel. The wheel does not clear the hub. I would have to run about 1/8" of a spacer, or 3mm, or I would have to have the inside bore on the wheel machined at least 0.080" deeper to clear the nose of the hub. It would not sit down tight on the brake rotor! For the moment, since it will be in the garage for a while still, I put a cheap 8mm AutoZone spacer I had in my tool box behind the wheel.
Wow... that was too much work for what it was. Working on the garage floor is not pleasant.
famous bob
mopar misfit
the threads on the brake lines don`t hold any thing but the lines themselves. about the only good a sealant would do on them would be acting like a lubricant.
383Duster
Well-Known Member
Good progress, looks great. I can't find the time to pull my gauge cluster to restore it, LOL.
Working for the weekend... this week was a little strange, for a few minutes just now I thought it was Thursday. I hope to get some time to work on it tomorrow and Sunday. A few more pictures from the garage until then.
Completed the driver's side suspension and brakes today. Set the car down... tweaked the ride height. Driver's side was so much easier than the passenger side. No second guessing or thinking. I also took a flat file to the hex on each end of the t-bar to knock down the powder coat a little, that made it a lot easier to knock the bar in.
Still a long way to go but great to be making visual progress. Nice to have the car on the floor and rolling again.
Still a long way to go but great to be making visual progress. Nice to have the car on the floor and rolling again.
famous bob
mopar misfit
going to be a head turner, that`s for sure!
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