1968 Dodge Dart GT Sleeping Beauty?

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Thanks it was going to be a rat rod Vette and as soon as it went on a lift the frame was so rusted it became a full blown restoration.

He is in NC and I am in VA so we have worked it (primarily the frame engine and all chassis in NC) back and forth.


Yes it is going back PP1. My painter has become a friend. I should get my spray kit this week. We will see how it goes. You load the paint into a bowl? and it screws on top of a recharged canister that produces 12-18 oz of paint spray. I will detail out the engine compartment and he will clear it after I do the detail work.

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The local paint shop has the ability to make real spray cans of custom paint.

I tried one of those and did not have good results. A HF touch up gun works well too.
 
They have mixed reviews. I am using it to get into the hard to detail areas of the engine compartment. My buddy will do most of the spray and clear it.
 
Back in 2008 I did my engine compartment body color with custom mixed cans of spray paint. Looks great but lacks the durability of 2k paint, chips scratches and stains easily. Since then I did a bunch of other engine compartments 2k paint and detail gun. Detail guns don't require as much air volume and atomize paint good for shiny finish. Most recent engine compartment I did, 2k paint, brake fluid leaked on it and no effect on the paint.
 
Removed the stainless drip rails without messing them up. They needed to come off to remove the traces of the vinyl top. Drip rails were in excellent shape. Having the dart stored in a garage since 1987 (37 years saved this car from extensive rust) was a positive. The top even with little paint protection did not have any surface rust after being on the road for 19 years. Taking screws and bolts off is extremely easy. The Corvette project, almost every bolt etc snapped off. I am able to save all the hardware on the dart.

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The plan is to install the rebuilt front suspension that is a complete K Member with Disc Brakes BBP.
I also have a completely rebuilt rear axle 7 1/4 drum to drum. We even replaced the pinion seal and bearing. BBP.
This rear is strong enough for the stock 318 that will be pushing it.
Get those installed and paint the engine compartment. Install the motor and transmission.
Then work on the body. I have plenty of Rock Auto and Mancini items on order for the mechanical side of things.
 
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The 7 1/4" rear absorbs less power parasitically than larger (8 1/4" or 8 3/4") offerings. To maximize power, the smallest axle housing that can handle the job is the best one for the job. I think you already know this, though.
 
RAT ROD AL said:
NOT 69
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If you look at a 67, it has rectangular front turn signals, 68 went round (very cool), 69 realized 67 was the coolest so they went back to rectangular!

See 67 is the coolest of them all!
 
mpgmike said:
The 7 1/4" rear absorbs less power parasitically than larger (8 1/4" or 8 3/4") offerings. To maximize power, the smallest axle housing that can handle the job is the best one for the job. I think you already know this, though.
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You give me too much credit. I was doing the 7 1/4 based on $. I knew it was strong enough for my use.
 
Does anyone know what the markings on these leaf springs mean? I could not find them on the net. I believe they were off a 72 Valiant
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The long number is the part number. I wonder if the other numbers are a casting or date code?

712 76 1628
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I went by my painter and his body man to have them take a look at the Driver’s side rear quarter. I was toying with the idea of picking up another full skin. After they looked at it, they felt it really is not going to be a big deal to make it right. It definitely is the easy choice.

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I cut out the bad areas and my fabricator welded in the patch panels. There is a body line I was worried would be hard to save. He can access it from inside and push it out. He noted it is one of the few flat surfaces on the side to work with.
 
7 1/4” Rear was rebuilt and when I went to pick it up he had installed 5 x 4 SBP so being a “nice” guy I tried to use adapters. It moved the tires out too far.
Now I am calling Moser to see if they can drill the axles.

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