1968 SS Dart in progress

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Man! These SS looking darts look awesome, 132068Dodge, if I wanted to make my dart look like this, do you know the specs for the rear? How much do you have to shorten the rearend (8 3/4 in my dart) How much to cut when mini tubing? and what rear wheel and tire did they use?
 
GermzD74 said:
Man! These SS looking darts look awesome, 132068Dodge, if I wanted to make my dart look like this, do you know the specs for the rear? How much do you have to shorten the rearend (8 3/4 in my dart) How much to cut when mini tubing? and what rear wheel and tire did they use?
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well if you want to do it correct you just use a 3 pound hammer and beat the inner fenders flat with the frame rail... sounds crude but can even tell when your done...

as for the cut out i have to check the cutout i bought off ebay vs. gregs original one...

and dont rememebr housing width of the top of my head but we use a 15x10 with 5.5" BS?? and a 30x12.5 tire...
 
805moparkid said:
well if you want to do it correct you just use a 3 pound hammer and beat the inner fenders flat with the frame rail... sounds crude but can even tell when your done...
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Post some pictures of that. Are you saying you pound the inner fender well into the frame rail without taking anything out? If so I don't know about that one.
 
Mad Dart said:
Post some pictures of that. Are you saying you pound the inner fender well into the frame rail without taking anything out? If so I don't know about that one.
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its the way hurst did it and the way we do it... dont have pics but chris (1320) might be able to post them...
 
You have to beat the inner fender well even if you do the cutout on the wheel well? Didn't know that! If anyone can let me know how much to shorten the rearend housing, how much metal to weld for the mini tubing, and the backspacing for the wheels...thanks!
 
GermzD74 said:
You have to beat the inner fender well even if you do the cutout on the wheel well? Didn't know that! If anyone can let me know how much to shorten the rearend housing, how much metal to weld for the mini tubing, and the backspacing for the wheels...thanks!
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you dont have to do the mini tub "split"... and yes combine the hammer work with the cut out and you can fit a 30x 12.5 tire...
 
GermzD74 said:
You have to beat the inner fender well even if you do the cutout on the wheel well? Didn't know that! If anyone can let me know how much to shorten the rearend housing, how much metal to weld for the mini tubing, and the backspacing for the wheels...thanks!
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hey also... this is partly my fault... you need to post this under your own thread so chris can have his stuff on here...

im sorry chris for taking up part of your thread!

HemiMark said:
Oh my..... truly ugly color combo... the tail stripe needs to change.
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...i know...
 
805moparkid said:
hey also... this is partly my fault... you need to post this under your own thread so chris can have his stuff on here...

im sorry chris for taking up part of your thread!



...i know...
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I think there shouldn't be a problem since I originally targeted the question towards him, I'm pretty sure he knows.....FABO thanks you for looking out though lol.
 
GermzD74 said:
You have to beat the inner fender well even if you do the cutout on the wheel well? Didn't know that! If anyone can let me know how much to shorten the rearend housing, how much metal to weld for the mini tubing, and the backspacing for the wheels...thanks!
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I did the mini tub and still had to massage with a hammer slightly. I am running a 325/50/15 ET Street tire. That is the biggest tire I could fit.

You can see what I did in the links below. There are measurements, back space etc and alot of pics that may help you.

There is no way by just using a hammer the tires I chose would fit. That is the Butcher way to do that anyway.
 
Hurst used crude methods when they originally built the cars. 805 is correct in that the 3# sludge was used with vigor. That's just part of the magic though. The springs were moved inboard 3 inches in order to allow use of the tire sizes 805 mentioned. The quarter panel work is the tricky part and needs to be done with great attention to prep and detail because it's easy to distort the entire quarter and lose body lines. An accurate template is an absolute must and you must take enough material out at the bottom of the slope to allow for the expansion of the slicks. The quarter is cut and enough of the inner panel needs to be left in place in order to bend, tuck and weld to the outer quarter for stability. If you cut both at the same length, youv'e scr**** the pooch! As far as narrowing the rear end. If you have an original a-body 8 3/4, leave it alone and sell it to someone who won't butcher it up. Originals are hard to find (a body related). Get one out of an old E body. If you get lucky, it'll come with a posi like mine did. I don't remember the exact width dimensions but do remember I had to take 4 1/4" off of each side to obtain the correct width. Having not done one before, my Dad did it for me. I narrowed the axles which were purchased from Yukon as cut to fit and added green bearings to the package as well. Subframe connectors are easily fabbed from 2x2 boxed tubing and have to be installed before cutting of the rear frame for installation of new rear wpring boxes. The rear quarters are the most difficult part of the build in my opinion. SOOOO much fun starting with a 4' section of straight steel, bending to 90* and using the shrinker and stretcher to form the entire circumference for the inner wheel well lip. UGLY and HATEFUL INDEED!
 
No material needs to be taken out but when the inner fender is pounded it should definately be done prior to welding inner fender to outer quarter as to avoid severe concave of metal!!! Once your outer quarter is cut leave approximately 2 1/2 inches of inner fender housing (wheel housing) exposed beyond your quarter cut. That way you have enough material to trim back, heat, bend, and tack into place. Also, the use of a good 4 foot level is a must.
 
132068Dodge said:
Wow! Thanks for the encouraging thoughts everyone :). Fresh pics are attached of completed front suspension restoration including rebuilt manual steering box with 20:1 worm gear assembly, PST graphite urethane bushings, new everything including Wilwood 4 piston dynalite brakes with race length ARP screw in wheel studs, 340 torsion rods , replated hardware, etc. Rear end is SS spec, narrowed 8 3/4 with rebuilt (all new except for backing plates and parking brake levers and spanners) 11x 2 1/2" drums. The rear end will pack narrowed Yukon axles (already own and narrowed) with race length wheel studs, 4:30 gears and sure trac posi. Installed are correct, new 002/003 SS springs and new retaining hardware. Just purchased line loc, master cylinder and am soon to purchase new pre-bent brake lines. This restoration is being completed as I can afford financially as I do not want to rack up credit card debt, so it won't be done real quick. The powerplant will be a very well built 440. The period hemi's aren't exactly cheap.
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Where did you get your Brake Assembly at?? I need the same thing for my 67 TT Build.
 
805moparkid said:
its the way hurst did it and the way we do it... dont have pics but chris (1320) might be able to post them...
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Attached are some pics of the inner fender housing beatdown.
 

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  • inner wheel housing 001.JPG
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  • 68 SS wheel arch fabrication 001.JPG
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  • Mr. Norm's Dart and clearcoat 008.JPG
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  • Mr. Norm's Dart and clearcoat 019.JPG
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  • inner wheel housing 006.JPG
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