PS…..if you get a repop pivot bracket put it in a vice and give it a few light hits with a hammer before you install it. Mine broke while I was installing it and many other people had problems as well. See photo above.
Thank you for the reply and insight (insight based on experience is the best kind).
In Schild's book he claims that the factory used 64-65 Race Hemi bellhousings. Is this another instance where the book isn't accurate?
I'm not sure how the early units differ from the later ones, besides the markings and part numbers. Ironically, I spent a lot of time and no small amount of money finding a complete 64-5 bellhousing and inspection cover, and all the while I had a 1970 aluminum bellhousing/clutch fork/etc sitting on the shelf.
Did you modify the pivot bracket per the factory drawing in order to keep it parallel with the frame mounted pivot? I will certainly check for poor weld penetration prior to installation. I'm glad your bracket fell apart upon installation, vice hammering down the track!
I'll probably give the 'correct' set-up a go, and if I can't make it work I won't hesitate to swap in the aluminum bellhousing. I really appreciate your help and recommendations. Would you mind if I PMed you from time to time as I build this thing?
Not yet. I bought the modified TTI Z-bar. What are these notes that you have? Originals?Very, very nice!!
Have you mocked up this combo in your car yet?
Those bell housing are based on B body’s. This means that your Z bar will not line up between your B body bell housing and you A body car.View attachment 1715787062View attachment 1715787063View attachment 1715787064
…sorry, one more thing. That bell housing comes real close to the pinch weld between fire wall and floor pan. Keep an eye on it when installing your trans cross member.
Keep us all posted, looks real good!
Not yet. I bought the modified TTI Z-bar. What are these notes that you have? Originals?
That is fantastic. If we run into any issues I’ll be sure to reach out. I’m not going for 100% perfect as far isn’t original but it’s going to be a fair bit closer than many I would say.This are original notes from Bob Tarozzi when he was designing and building these cars. Here is Bob in my car at Spring Fling a few years backView attachment 1715787070
Not bad for moving on its own power for very first time.
This is amazing!Very good, anything I can do or if you have any question maybe I can help. Here is a picture of my two clones. Dart is auto with 8 3/4 and the Barracuda is a 4 speed and a Dana so I got things covered. View attachment 1715787072
Tribe of Dan: I believe I have the same bellhousing/inspection cover as you. What flywheel are you using? It appears that a std 10.5" 130 tooth flywheel fits our bell housings. Is this correct?
Troy: thanks for the pictures of the mounting bracket drawings; those are very helpful because Schild's guide does not have the corrected ball stud height (book shows 3.04" from centerline of the mounting hole to centerline of the ball stud). Your drawing appears to have the 3.04" dimension lined out and 3.17" written below it.
Also: what a magnificent pair of cars! I love the license plates.
I believe 130 is correct but I can’t prove it. I have the 130 based on Brewers advice.[/QUOTE
They are on the trans picture above on post #5...Did Hurst sell the HD linkage over the counter? Do you have a picture of it?
I just have stock A-body shift rods and tabs.