1969 Dart power steering valve assembly

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ConfusedMuchOfTheTime

ConfusedMuchOfTheTime

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Hi everyone

Pretty sure I've not posted to this forum before. An easy question hopefully.

Car:
1969 Dart Conv
225 /6 auto

So, I need to replace a few missing parts to get the car to at least a running and driving type of state. I'm at the PS core now and am missing the valve assembly which sits on top of the PS core as per the below photo. You can see the pressure and return lines hanging out.

Dart power steering.jpg


My question is this. Am I able to take the following VA from a B-body PS core and bolt it on to my core ? This is what I'm after, circled in red. The 2 x 5/16" bolt pattern looks correct for my Dart PS core from what I can make out. This PS core is advertised from a B-body so just want to make sure there are no geometrical differences between the A and B-body PS cores.

power steering valve assembly 1.png


I think that's all.

Thanks in advance as usual everyone.

Chris
 
Yes. Did you download yourself a FSM from "MyMopar?" There is an adjustment you must do there to "center" the box, otherwise the wheel will "waltz" around to one side
 
67Dart273 said:
Yes. Did you download yourself a FSM from "MyMopar?" There is an adjustment you must do there to "center" the box, otherwise the wheel will "waltz" around to one side
Click to expand...

The FSM means more to me than my family if this is permitted. Seriously though (and I love my family btw), it's more useful than any other tool I have in the garage. I'm keen to retain my PS box as is and simply need to bolt the valve assembly on assuming there are zero differences in the valve assembly blocks across the manufacture years and chassis platforms. I have a guy willing to remove the VA from the box (red circle above) and if it will bolt straight on to my Dart PS box then I'm keen.
 
I just did my P/S gear. If the top of that has been open, I certainly would consider tearing it down to clean and re seal it. Mine was totally gross inside, and it was sealed. If you buy that valve, you should tear it down to clean as there is a spool valve inside.

The FSM walks you through the tear down and re-assembly. Rock auto has a Gates kit that has most of the seals and O rings you'll need to do the job. It's pretty straight forward. The only tricky part is setting the inside bearing pre-load, but you can do it with a digital fish scale and some patience.

BTW....That B body valve LOOKS like the one that was on my A body box.
 
CFD244 said:
I just did my P/S gear. If the top of that has been open, I certainly would consider tearing it down to clean and re seal it. Mine was totally gross inside, and it was sealed. If you buy that valve, you should tear it down to clean as there is a spool valve inside.

The FSM walks you through the tear down and re-assembly. Rock auto has a Gates kit that has most of the seals and O rings you'll need to do the job. It's pretty straight forward. The only tricky part is setting the inside bearing pre-load, but you can do it with a digital fish scale and some patience.

BTW....That B body valve LOOKS like the one that was on my A body box.
Click to expand...

I think I'll be tearing the engine bay down once I coral the bits I'm missing. I found the cook book steps in the FSM and yes it reads straight forward until you open something up and springs fly everywhere. I've hunted around the web and the valve assembly does look the same on both platforms so I'll likely take a punt. Thanks for the Rockauto suggestion too.

***Update***
Just jumped under the motor to read the PS box p/n 2267262 which matches the p/n on the for sale ad so I'm happy with this that there's compatibility.
 
Last edited:
ConfusedMuchOfTheTime said:
I think I'll be tearing the engine bay down once I coral the bits I'm missing. I found the cook book steps in the FSM and yes it reads straight forward until you open something up and springs fly everywhere. I've hunted around the web and the valve assembly does look the same on both platforms so I'll likely take a punt. Thanks for the Rockauto suggestion too.

***Update***
Just jumped under the motor to read the PS box p/n 2267262 which matches the p/n on the for sale ad so I'm happy with this that there's compatibility.
Click to expand...
Springs don't fly everywhere. Tear it down as the manual states, and keep the components together. There are only two major components initially. The sector shaft and the piston/worm assy. The piston is the only thing that comes apart as it is separated from the worm assy. Stand the thing up, and disassemble one piece at a time laying it out on a large work space in the same config. as you took it off. It will look like an exploded diagram if yo do it that way. You'll figure it out. Take your time.
 
CFD244 said:
Springs don't fly everywhere. Tear it down as the manual states, and keep the components together. There are only two major components initially. The sector shaft and the piston/worm assy. The piston is the only thing that comes apart as it is separated from the worm assy. Stand the thing up, and disassemble one piece at a time laying it out on a large work space in the same config. as you took it off. It will look like an exploded diagram if yo do it that way. You'll figure it out. Take your time.
Click to expand...

Yeah man. Am looking forward to ripping into some teardown proper. Removing fenders and rocker arm covers doesn't really do it. Good to know about no flying components. I've had that before where two sprung loaded components go in different directions and it's anyone's guess how to replace them. No such drama with my Mopar FSM I hope.
 
BTW...The manual says to insert a tool into the end where the sector shaft attaches to the pitman arm to hold case bearings in place. My gear did not have these bearings. Instead, it was a slip fit between the shaft and the case.
 
Looks like both boxes have been sitting around for a while without being sealed. I'd be worried about contaminates inside which can cause damage to the innerds of the box. If you don't tear it down and clean everything, at least blow it out with some compressed air to remove some of it. Make sure the spool valve you're buying moves freely and isn't rusty. Good Luck!
 
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