DionR
Well-Known Member
I wish!! I just watched online.
Bucket list to do what you did.
I will go watch the video. Thanks!
1970 Duster AlterKtion, 4 Link, LS/T56/Turbo and Minitub
- Thread starter 70DusterDev
- Start date
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I wish!! I just watched online.
Bucket list to do what you did.
I will go watch the video. Thanks!
70DusterDev
Well-Known Member
Ah you'll do it one day! Though being in WA rocky mountain race week may be a better option! haha thats much closer! I'd love to do that one one day as well.
ALSO, I'm surprised you recognized the car well enough from the live streams to know it was the same car here!
DionR
Well-Known Member
Watched the video, even subscribed.
Your reason for the build and comment when you beat the Hellcat rings true with me as well. Rather than spend money to buy a Scat Pack I decided to build my Duster. Well, originally it was going to be my '74, but my son's '73 made more sense when he decided he didn't want it. And I just want to keep up with a 6.4 car, don't really care if I am faster. Difference for me is I am sticking to a stock style TB front suspension with a 5.7 G3 Hemi with a 6.4 cam and intake. Should be enough HP when combined with the lighter chassis to run with a stock Scat Pack.
Your second run and watching your rear view mirror flop around actually made me laugh out loud. Had to use my '74 for some errands that morning and mine has the same problem. Hate it, but I guess not enough to make it a priority to fix it either.
Love how you kept thinking you were going to get put out but went and did your business and kept winning. That was fun to watch. Nice job!!
DionR
Well-Known Member
If I did one, I would really want to do Drag Week, or maybe Sick Week. Rocky Mountain would be a decent option, just that my heart goes towards the first two.
Don't see it happening, but I thought the same thing about getting to go to SEMA and I am headed there for the second time in a month. So never say never.
To be honest, it wasn't the live feed that tipped me off. I followed the Drag Week 2024 FB group and saw a post you made from one of the checkpoints and the light when on that I knew the car. Followed your build and I have an affinity for Mopar A-Bodies with wheels bigger than 14".
Add that I have been gathering info for some time for my T56 swap so I have been in this thread multiple times to review.
70DusterDev
Well-Known Member
Ha awesome! I've never been to SEMA! Its a ways from Vermont haha. Thats awesome that the 17s did the trick! lmao I'm also glad the build thread could be of help some how! Definitely go with the Malwood under dash hydraulic master! Its 100% a pain in the *** and without modification of the stock mounting location you can't use the factory ebrake handle anymore, however it takes all the stress off the firewall.
DionR
Well-Known Member
I bought one of these before the Malwood kit came out.
Clutch Master Cylinder Mounting
Got some of my engineering friends to help me print out a clutch master cylinder mount. Looking to get it machined now.
www.forabodiesonly.com
Did you use a Malwood master? My brother is using one in his '71 Demon build and had to go to an electric e-brake kit.
70DusterDev
Well-Known Member
Ahhh that should help being on that part of the firewall!
Yeah I did. Can you send me a link to the electric ebrake kit he got!? That would be great haha.
DionR
Well-Known Member
Pretty sure it is this one:
E-Stopp Corp. ESK001 E-Stopp Push-Button Electric Emergency Brakes | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - E-Stopp Push-Button Electric Emergency Brakes with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Parking Brakes, Electric at Summit Racing.
He built a bracket and welded it to his floor.
70DusterDev
Well-Known Member
Yeesh! I guess I'll just keep putting it in 1st gear for now lmao expensive!
DionR
Well-Known Member
Yeah, $1200 or so between the 2 kits is too rich for my blood. I know people have been able to make it work with the factory e-brake, so not exactly sure why some interfere and others fit fine.
Malwood underdash hydraulic kit for A-Bodies
My brother bought one of these for his Demon project, but he is a long while from installing it. But I figured someone might find it insteresting, supposed to be pretty new to the market...
www.forabodiesonly.com
70DusterDev
Well-Known Member
Figured it was time for an update, since I was just busting a buddies balls about an update!
I've been working on building a garage over the summer and still through the winter so that's where most of my focus has been, but the car has seen and is scheduled for a few updates!
I'm going to get a different master cylinder with a little larger bore to make my pedal feel like I'm not pushing the clutch of a 66' Mack.
CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER 13/16 "BORE X 1-3/8 " STROKE - MalWood USA
I found a pretty cheap and simple handheld E Brake lever that I think may mount next to my seat that I can use instead of the under-dash lever. The under-dash lever is super cool, but I can't use it with the under-dash clutch master, and that is more important to me.
After Market Parking Brake Center Pull Handle, Lay Down Ratchet Style Lever
I also bit the bullet and ordered a strange 60 housing for the car. Everything else on the car has been replaced or upgraded so I figured she did great last year and deserves the upgrade. We've fooled with the original 60 3 different times, and we could never get the whining to go away. Every time we took the cover off and pulled the caps, the center section would fall out, even though we pressed it in. And its not the setup guy, I 100% trust his work and when I first get the axle back from him its quiet until I really start to push it. Using OEM Spicer gears and Timken bearings, so I'm not 100% sure what's going on with it, as I'm certainly not a gear setup master. However, I may sell it to someone with less HP with full disclosure of the symptoms. I'm around 800whp, so someone with a 500hp engine may never have a problem with it and its all narrowed to A body width and has all the stuff welded on it for the Reilly motorsports 4 link.
Here's the new one!
A friend of mine has one of those super cool handheld 3D scanners that then imports it to your computer to use in a CAD program. Since the car worked so well last year I reallllyy wanted all the brackets setup the same way as they were previously, so I brought it up to his shop last Sunday and we built a jig from the old axle to build the new one. We scanned the old axle and then used his plasma table to cut out a piece of steel and weld some gussets on the back so it can't flex. Then we welded tabs onto the jig that held the upper link tabs with spacers bolted in between them in the correct location and angle. We also welded on plates that the perches bolted to, to set them correctly. The Reilly 4 link setup uses perches on the bottom still that mounts the lower link and coil over bracket. This was the finish product. We used the two center bolts on each side of the diff housing where the cover bolts as our locating datums.
Here's the new axle all welded up and painted, ready for install!
I also ordered a load diff cover per recommendation from my buddy who setup the axle. It has 2 set screws that apply tension to the top of the caps in the housing to help prevent them from flexing under load. Pretty neat!
I had called Bill Reilly up last year after drag week and told him that when doing drag week, my coilovers are cranked all the way up and I have twist in spacers to make the tires not rub from the weight of the trailer, luggage and 2 people. He told me to upgrade from 180lb to 300lb springs, so I bought those and they're waiting to be installed along with the new rear axle. Once it gets a bit warmer and we have a lot less snow I'll probably get it all back together!
Some other exciting news is this bad boy finally came in the mail! The championship jacket!
Hopefully I'll see some of you there this year! I still need to get my dad his ticket this Saturday with the normal signup chaos, but I got my early registration done!
The last task at hand for the summer is to install another clutch switch of some sort that I can use for no lift shifting to apply my 2 step rpm limiter of 4500rpm while I'm shifting gears without letting off the pedal and blowing the boost out the blow off valve. My same buddy who did the regear also does tuning and he gave me a new tune that's a bit hotter than my current tune after taking a look at it. He said the current tune is incredibly safe and with my safeties I have setup in the Holley program as well as the forged internals, I should be alright with his changes. However, I'm still going to slowly turn it up 1 degree at a time this summer instead of just loading his new tune to try to get into the 9's and hopefully not blow it up. The #1 unkown is how much the 93 pump octane fluctuates and that makes it difficult and dangerous.
I've been working on building a garage over the summer and still through the winter so that's where most of my focus has been, but the car has seen and is scheduled for a few updates!
I'm going to get a different master cylinder with a little larger bore to make my pedal feel like I'm not pushing the clutch of a 66' Mack.
CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER 13/16 "BORE X 1-3/8 " STROKE - MalWood USA
I found a pretty cheap and simple handheld E Brake lever that I think may mount next to my seat that I can use instead of the under-dash lever. The under-dash lever is super cool, but I can't use it with the under-dash clutch master, and that is more important to me.
After Market Parking Brake Center Pull Handle, Lay Down Ratchet Style Lever
I also bit the bullet and ordered a strange 60 housing for the car. Everything else on the car has been replaced or upgraded so I figured she did great last year and deserves the upgrade. We've fooled with the original 60 3 different times, and we could never get the whining to go away. Every time we took the cover off and pulled the caps, the center section would fall out, even though we pressed it in. And its not the setup guy, I 100% trust his work and when I first get the axle back from him its quiet until I really start to push it. Using OEM Spicer gears and Timken bearings, so I'm not 100% sure what's going on with it, as I'm certainly not a gear setup master. However, I may sell it to someone with less HP with full disclosure of the symptoms. I'm around 800whp, so someone with a 500hp engine may never have a problem with it and its all narrowed to A body width and has all the stuff welded on it for the Reilly motorsports 4 link.
Here's the new one!
A friend of mine has one of those super cool handheld 3D scanners that then imports it to your computer to use in a CAD program. Since the car worked so well last year I reallllyy wanted all the brackets setup the same way as they were previously, so I brought it up to his shop last Sunday and we built a jig from the old axle to build the new one. We scanned the old axle and then used his plasma table to cut out a piece of steel and weld some gussets on the back so it can't flex. Then we welded tabs onto the jig that held the upper link tabs with spacers bolted in between them in the correct location and angle. We also welded on plates that the perches bolted to, to set them correctly. The Reilly 4 link setup uses perches on the bottom still that mounts the lower link and coil over bracket. This was the finish product. We used the two center bolts on each side of the diff housing where the cover bolts as our locating datums.
Here's the new axle all welded up and painted, ready for install!
I also ordered a load diff cover per recommendation from my buddy who setup the axle. It has 2 set screws that apply tension to the top of the caps in the housing to help prevent them from flexing under load. Pretty neat!
I had called Bill Reilly up last year after drag week and told him that when doing drag week, my coilovers are cranked all the way up and I have twist in spacers to make the tires not rub from the weight of the trailer, luggage and 2 people. He told me to upgrade from 180lb to 300lb springs, so I bought those and they're waiting to be installed along with the new rear axle. Once it gets a bit warmer and we have a lot less snow I'll probably get it all back together!
Some other exciting news is this bad boy finally came in the mail! The championship jacket!
Hopefully I'll see some of you there this year! I still need to get my dad his ticket this Saturday with the normal signup chaos, but I got my early registration done!
The last task at hand for the summer is to install another clutch switch of some sort that I can use for no lift shifting to apply my 2 step rpm limiter of 4500rpm while I'm shifting gears without letting off the pedal and blowing the boost out the blow off valve. My same buddy who did the regear also does tuning and he gave me a new tune that's a bit hotter than my current tune after taking a look at it. He said the current tune is incredibly safe and with my safeties I have setup in the Holley program as well as the forged internals, I should be alright with his changes. However, I'm still going to slowly turn it up 1 degree at a time this summer instead of just loading his new tune to try to get into the 9's and hopefully not blow it up. The #1 unkown is how much the 93 pump octane fluctuates and that makes it difficult and dangerous.
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racerjoe
Well-Known Member
Not hating, but curious of your decision to use a Dana rear end. I always want to ask this question, but usually its the purists doing it, so they would cry about using a Ford part in their Mopar. Clearly, you're not a purist. Dana's are known for being very heavy, then the obvious setup challenges. I feel like a 9" would be a better choice. Again, not hating, just curious. One last thing, do those upper arm mounts on the housing get any type of lateral support? Looks like they could deflect under load fairly easy.
70DusterDev
Well-Known Member
I had the same concern coming from the offroad world with the tabs like that and being so tall, but Bill said he's never had an issue with them. I will say I have given the car its fair share of hardships and they've never been an issue! Now, if you were to put a camera on the rear frame and watched a launch, I'm sure you'd see some deflection, but not enough to bend or break the tabs above the welds. I thought about gusseting them this time, but I wanted to see if I ever had an issue. Of course now that you and I have talked about it, I'll rip one off at drag week lmao.
As far as the rear ends go, once you pull all the brake crap off and its just a housing WITH the diff in it, the Dana 60 was barely heavier than a 9in in the same configuration from what I found. I had done so much research on the weight differences when I started, but you know everything on the internet must be true! Id love to weigh them both myself. HOWEVER, the real reason I went 60 originally simply was because I had a housing already and I knew 60s since thats whats in the front of my buggy. I've never used a 9" before so it was all new territory and I'd have had to track one down or buy new. So I bought all the 60 upgrade parts and stuff for that axle, cut it down, welded the ends on put it together with my buddy gearing it. Then when I started having the whining issue since I already had the 35 spline locker and chromo shafts, it made sense to get the strange housing instead of going 9" at that point. If I was starting from a blank slate and had neither, I'd probably try the 9" honestly.
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SwingerLSX75
Well-Known Member
Man oh man its about time.
Glad to see you're getting the shop built. Im in the middle of building mine too. Hopefully have the walls up next month. I hope to see you on the 2025 drag week.
Glad to see you're getting the shop built. Im in the middle of building mine too. Hopefully have the walls up next month. I hope to see you on the 2025 drag week.
racerjoe
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the no BS answer. Makes sense to me since you already had experience with them in your off-road hobby. Honestly, I'd go with an 8.8 if I were to build something else, but likely the 9" if it had big HP. Mostly because there's a plethora of used parts for them.
70DusterDev
Well-Known Member
Agreed. I would 100% go 8.8 if it would take it since every single rusted explorer up here has them with disk brakes and 3.73 or 4.10 gears for like $100 to $200
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
I’ve seen 8.8s in 4 second mustangs and I always want to know how many passes they get out of em. Welcome back btw
SwingerLSX75
Well-Known Member
I have my 8.8 and its been holding over 1000whp for over 7 years in mine. Came out of a junkyard 2001 ford explorer. I narrowed the long end to fit two short side axles, not fancy bracing or anything on mine either. I started with 31 splines and now it has 35 splines in it now and full spool.
70DusterDev
Well-Known Member
Thats good to hear Rich! I have one of those laying around already. Good to know it can take the power! I'd probably do that then instead of a 9" lol. I was told the reason they're so strong from the guy who did my gearing is because the pinion has SO much support the way the center section is casted.
mygasser
Well-Known Member
re the clutch master cylinder, a smaller bore (not bigger) will give a lighter pedal with slightly increased travel. if you meant a bigger bore slave cylinder then ignore me, lol. 
neil.
neil.
70DusterDev
Well-Known Member
Ah thanks! I guess I had that backwards!re the clutch master cylinder, a smaller bore (not bigger) will give a lighter pedal with slightly increased travel. if you meant a bigger bore slave cylinder then ignore me, lol.
neil.
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
The Strange S-60 is supposed to be much lighter then the original Dana 60 due to different type of cast iron used on center section per Strange web site. Also older Dana 60s vary in weight due to differences in tube thicknesses. Some Dana 60s said to be much heavier then others.
Strange S-60 has threaded adjusters for diff bearing preload backlash adjustment. Old Dana 60 uses shims. Doctor Diff said I could not get a Power Lock diff cause that only fits Dana 60 not Strange S-60? He made it sound like differentials not interchangable?
Dana 60 supposed to be lowest parasitic drag rear diff due to gear design from what I read. 9 inch Ford is said to be very high parasitic drag.
My buddy ran 9s with full interior '87 Mustang C4 auto trans slicks 8.8 rear 35 spline axles. He never had any issues with that rear taking that abuse.
Strange S-60 has threaded adjusters for diff bearing preload backlash adjustment. Old Dana 60 uses shims. Doctor Diff said I could not get a Power Lock diff cause that only fits Dana 60 not Strange S-60? He made it sound like differentials not interchangable?
Dana 60 supposed to be lowest parasitic drag rear diff due to gear design from what I read. 9 inch Ford is said to be very high parasitic drag.
My buddy ran 9s with full interior '87 Mustang C4 auto trans slicks 8.8 rear 35 spline axles. He never had any issues with that rear taking that abuse.
SwingerLSX75
Well-Known Member
You can always add more bracing than i did. Obviously I have the tubes welded, and 9" ends with c-clip eliminators because if you're doing the work you may as well make sure its good to go. If you call yukon gear and want a set oft heir 31 splines, narrow it 2 7/8s on the long side they will sell you the kit with two short side axles like they did for me a few years ago.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
What size tire? Gear ratio? Weight of your car? And how fast have you been on that rear end? Sorry about asking so may questions but I’m seriously considering using an 8.8 and I HAVE a 9” housing and a completely finished mopar 8-3/4
70DusterDev
Well-Known Member
Ahh I used my same center section on the S-60 but it's a suretrac style locker
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