1971 dart replacing igniton need help!!

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gzdart

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hi, im new to this site. i have a 71 dart that i accidentally put the wrong key into the ignition, and it became stuck. upon removal the switch was damaged and it wont turn. so i decided to replace it.

anyhow, im stuck. ive removed the steering wheel and the electrical fixture, but there seems to be a ball bearing that is preventing the bearing housing from coming off. so i cant exactly get to the switch. i am almost to it, and i dont want to force anything (moreso than i already have... the shaft moves around and even slides back a couple of inches... i dont know if this is normal.).

how exactly do i remove this bearing to get the housing off? the haynes manual i have doesnt have the correct diagram and isnt very descriptive. ive already removed a retaining ring, which was a pain.

ive attached a couple pics so you can see where im at. any help is appreciated.


steering wheel off
IMG_0543.jpg


gap between bearing housing and lock housing (i think thats what its called? lol) this is on the column.
IMG_0544.jpg
 
Did you ever figure the problem out? I've hit the same snag on a 1971 Plymouth Scamp. I've looked around but still haven't found any help.
 
metalslug said:
Did you ever figure the problem out? I've hit the same snag on a 1971 Plymouth Scamp. I've looked around but still haven't found any help.
Click to expand...
Follow the steps that 67dart273 posted. Once you get past fig.7, the upper bowl should come off with a little lube and hammer. Run the nut back onto the shaft until it's flush with the end. While you lift up on the bowl, tap lightly on the end of the shaft. Once it comes loose, follow the rest of the steps up to fig.12. You won't need a special tool for the lock plate shown in fig.9. You can just use a drift or punch to get the pin out after you've removed the sleeve covering it. If you have trouble finding a lock cylinder, let me know and I'll check to see what I have.
 
One other option is to take the whole steering column to a guy that specializes only in steering columns. I usually find them around those pick-a-part places.
 
Little snap ring needs removed right above the bearing on the shaft. Hard to see, you will find it.
 
Yep, snap ring removal is all it'll take. Stuff shouldn't need to be hammered or otherwise abused to come apart. If you find yourself feeling the need to do so, stop and think what you might be overlooking (like a snap ring). My own account of doing this job on a '71 is here.
 
here is how i did it on my 71 dart..


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pull steering wheel..

DSC_0105.jpg



pull the turn signal switch...

DSC_0107.jpg



pull the clip

DSC_0110.jpg



then remove the screws holding things together..

DSC_0109.jpg




separate the upper part of the column.

DSC_0112.jpg




remove the plate that covers the roll pin...

DSC_0115.jpg



remove the roll pin

DSC_0117.jpg



remove the plate

DSC_0119.jpg




insert ign key ( never had to use the proper key. just one that slides all the way in). then push clip thats inside this hole down while pulling key cyl. out.

DSC09811.jpg
 
Those upper bearings aren't made of much. I've seen several that had already lost balls or fall apart on the way out. If it's worn out it can cause problems with the signal switch.
 
thanks guys. i try to get pics of everything i do like that. figure it may help someone one day.. plus there are some things i did on cars i had years ago that i wish i took pictures of.. :)
 
I'm glad you put this up there, Joe! I just pulled my column apart tonight for this exact reason!
 
This question of how to remove a lock cylinder comes up regularly. That excellent photo array detailing disassembly of an early column should be made a sticky for easy access to those in need.

Years ago I had a lock smith business, and did a lot of automotive work. The wrong key stick in a Chrysler ignition problem would occasionally pop up. The problem these ignition cylinders is there is a trap that captures a broken or wrong key that has to be pushed up and out of the way before the offending key or chunk can be removed. Same goes for a key jammed into the key way upside down. When an upside down, wrong, or broken stub is pulled out, the trap digs in more as more pulling force is exerted. What can happen is the trap gets distorted, and won’t allow the correct key to be inserted fully into the key way. When this happens the tumblers won’t properly orientate to line up the shear line that allowing the key to be rotated.

The fix is to replace the Chrysler lock cylinder which is a lot of work requiring special tools. GM and Ford ignition locks of the seventies don’t have these trap problems, and are a lot easier to remove from the steering column if needed.

Just be thankful you don’t have an early nineties BMW, there aren’t hammers big enough to hit you head with to deal with those damn things…LOL
 
I agree. :sign3:

Thanks, Joe. Lot easier for me to understand than my FSM. The illustrations in my .pdf version of the FSM are not nearly as crisp and clear as those 67Dart273 posted.
 
sorry for the late reply, i appreciate all the help. it was the retaining ring that was stopping me, i was worried about breaking it so i didnt want to force anything, but with a little muscle i ended up getting it off and got the new ignition lock in fine. thanks again!
 
The horn switch is mounted onto the steering wheel right under the horn button or ring. The brush or roller (depending on year) is under the steering wheel and part of the turn signal switch. The contact ring for the brush or roller is mounted to the under side of the steering wheel and held on by a big metal ring that also serves as the turn signal cancel post.
 
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