1971 Scamp limited....

[Dartnut]

Holy cow!
You're on fire George!
I leave you alone for a week and this is what you are doing?
I do have some marker light bezels for you, i'll see you on Sunday.
Anything to speed up the progress.
I don't know why you aren't motivated to get stuff done.
When are you going to have the 8 3/4 out?
I might have a buyer.

 

[gdrill]

Well I got the brakes lines replaced today. That's about it. Gotta wait for parts, including a master cylinder and all the rubber under the front end, brake hoses, ball joints and bushings. I picked up gaskets for the valve covers and pan. I also got a filter and gasket for the trans. Maybe tomorrow. I will have to pick between two used trans. Tom suggested removing both pans and deciding based upon appearance. Sounds like a plan to me, it's a gamble either way. No late night working on the Scamp tonight....it's beer night!

 

[Dartnut]

Beer and a break is always good!

 

[Captain Canuck]

Ok George.... we need some updates here! Or are you still drinking beer? lol

 

[gdrill]

I do too Andy. I am away at work, been near two weeks now. I am going through withdrawals! I will be headed back to the South country 2moro. All my brake and front suspension hardware should be in. I also ordered the headliner and carpet. The headliner is there...the carpet?? So the next step will be dictated by the parts I received. I'll get some more pics up soon.

 

[Dartnut]

He's still drinkin' beer.

 

[gdrill]

Ok, ok. No pics because everybody knows what an engine looks like. I have cleaned up and compression tested my other 318. I adjusted the bands in the trans and put a new filter and gasket on it. They are now bolted together with the headers and starter attached. I used threadlock on the flex plate and torque converter bolts at the suggestion of some buddies. I am going to mount them to the k member and install them in the car without the control arms etc. Then I will assemble the rest onto the k member. It's been a few days of scraping and cleaning.

P.S. Tom...............any pics????..........well..........

 

[MoparDemon]

Sweet! looks like a really solid car i like it, you have a nice selection of mopars to play with now i think i have to get another one too! ;) good job so far bud. :happy1:

 

[340sFastback]

Very cool car with the V8, console/buckets, and 8 3/4" rear. Definitely a unique combo for sure. You got real lucky with those floors and trunk too. I recommend a 15/16" master cylinder for reduced leg effort. Order one for a '73 340 Duster with power disc brakes. It will bolt right in to a manual brake car. 7/8" rear wheel cylinders help to balance the brake system too along with a proportioning valve.

 

[gdrill]

Thanx guys. Yes I am still amazed at the general condition. Unfortunately...I already have a new master. I believe it is 1 1/32"...the one called for in the books. But, I can always save it for another project! I have installed a proportioning valve, but didn't know about the 7/8" cylinders...good tip. Thanx.

 

[Dartnut]

Pics?
Oh yeah, here's some pics out of my Scamp parts car that you wanted to see.

 

[340sFastback]

I already have a new master. I believe it is 1 1/32"...the one called for in the books. But, I can always save it for another project! I have installed a proportioning valve, but didn't know about the 7/8" cylinders...good tip. Thanx.

With that big bore you will need two feet pushing as hard as you can on that brake pedal just for normal stopping. It won't be fun. Those KH brakes in stock form are pretty crappy that is why you need the 15/16" master cylinder, 7/8" rear wheel cylinder, and proportioning valve. I run the Red EBC front pads too. Once I got all the brake mods in place the braking is really good with minimum leg effort. Here is the write up I put up on my web site:

http://www.billsgarage.info/BarracudaBrakes.shtml

The same KH front disc brake system was used on the first gen Mustangs; different rotors but same calipers and same brake pads as a-body mopars. Surf around those first gen Mustang sites and you hear the same complaints about weak poor performing disc brakes.

 

[gdrill]

I took your advice. The 1 1/32" is going back and the 15/16" is on the way with 7/8" cylinders. Thanx. I also read about Police cars getting 13/16" cylinders to prevent lockup under hard braking. Hummed and hawed and went with your original suggestion. I don't know how to tell but the pads that came with my calipers are red. They are both new as well. Thanks for the link...I'll be reading!
Cool site...good info, and nice car!
Edit: The pads look normal to me just painted red. The numbering on them is:
BPI 709 FF
1126ON

 

[340sFastback]

I bought my car in '79 from original owner and it was all original and it had no proportioning valve, not on the frame rail and not built into the distribution block either, it didn't have one. The original owner filled the spare tire well, trunk drop downs, and area under 1/4 windows with sand to try to counter the rear wheel lock up problem. I spent over 20 years replacing parts, bleeding the system, and scratching my head. Then the internet was invented, I joined forums, did a lot of research, and I finally figure out how to get the brakes to work. So I want to save others from the grief I went through.

 

[Dartnut]

Pics as of yesterday......
Looking good! :cheers:

 

[emnestor]

What is that extra pipe for under the gas fill neck? Great progress!!!

 

[gdrill]

It is a vent system of some sort. Apparently it is 71 only. I know nothing about it......yet.

 

[emnestor]

Interesting. I have never seen, or noticed one of those before.

 

[gdrill]

I removed and replaced the upper control arm bushings in a press. Simple. I am now at the point where I have to remove the LCA bushings. I searched here and got many different ideas. Then I "Googled" it and came up with this link. Looks quite simple and effective. I will most likely use this method.

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/t.../photo_01.html

Well it was 20 minutes to the point of welding. Went perfect! Then.......well I aint the best welder, but I just kept breaking the washers off. I think I'm going to chisel them. :banghead:

 

[gdrill]

Ok, Dartnut, Tom, and RJ, Rob arrived and showed me the way. rayer: My welds of the washer to the sleeve broke and I was going to chisel them out. But, Tom welded 4 strips on the inside and 4 knobs at the top to hit with a punch from the other side. We turned them over and they tapped out like nothing. Tom will likely put the pics up later.

 

[memike]

Having fun yet :cheers: Your 71 is looking better and better everytime I visit your build :coffee2:
Stay safe and Happy birthday George, having friends around you as things pop up that
make us scratch our heads is sure a blessing ain't it =D>
Did your LCA's come with sway bar attachment brackets ? I would think so but in 71 it's hard to say, but it being a V8 car it could have. If not now would be a good time to put some on, I know you will want a front sway bar Very nizze engine hoist :glasses7: I can say I have never seen one like that
Have a cold one for me this evening if your work permits it :glasses7:, 47 wow my son and I used #47 or 77, 7 and one 247 on our dirt racers back in the day, always racing to #7 :coffee2:

I bet you can guess where our/my banner is now =D>

 

[gdrill]

Thanx very much Mike. Yes friends are an amazing thing. Couldn't get by without them. Actually the Scamp didn't have a swaybar or the tabs on the LCA's, but the Demon parts are what I'm using. I have to use the LCA's from it for the tabs. I learn more and more about these cars every day. All the same but yet tiny differences between years....just enough to make the specific parts necessary!

 

[Dartnut]

Here's some pics.
Who's this Tom dude?
All i know is that he's an awesome welder. Never met him until yesterday, he don't talk much. Boy, i sure wish i had his money. rayer:
So am i the official photographer on this thread now?

 

[Dartnut]

Actually, how it works is the radial welds will actually shrink the sleeve and break it free of any sealant, rust, etc. in the hole. Use a mig welder and go fairly fast, the idea is to get the heat in there and not weld it to the inner part!
Wait for a couple of minutes after welding and it taps right out using the little nubs tacked in there.
At least that's what Tom told me. What an intelligent man he is.
I'm just the official photographer here.

 

[gdrill]

Well today was my birthday, so of course, I spent it working on the Scamp! My official photographer will probably show up with pics. We, "paparazzi" and I put the motor and trans back in. It's a good feeling to be on the way to starting it up. Thanx for the help again Tom. rayer: