1971 Swinger Build \6-V8 Swap

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Howdy friends I come bearing good news on this build so far, After recent enquiries from listings of availability of parts. I have upgraded with soon pictures to come from a Hooker $120 headers to Doug's D453 headers for 380$. I am in the process of trying to conundrum how to get a scare bird backing plate to match with a aftermarket rear disk brake kit, and also with good news a friend of mine will be bringing his mandrel Bender. So we can get the exhaust connected and group with a few friends to get the car turning over with any luck hopefully before the end of August.
 
Now trying to be current the Doug's headers are now installed, 2.5" exhaust has been cut, welded,& clean prepped and mock up fitted successfully.
In waiting atm for engine wiring harness from year one, which has been a several month delay to say the least. Also finally caved, threw in the wrench and git me a pair of 72 demon rear drum brake system. Making my new rear axle complete.

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What are the gosh Shartin odds I sign in the almost exact year in different from where I was. I am excited to tell you that I am completely able to do engine start up tomorrow and by the end of this month be able to go drive it to get it registered at the DMV Wish me the best,
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help post any information for 1st time start up for a open 7 ¼ rear axle A904 transmission and 318 from 1986 Van, all crammed into a 71 Swinger. It has been a long time. Please understand and be able to help me get to the checkered end mark tp make this a darn daily.
 
Need to also patch a tear in the exhaust outlet, during mockup fitting. But good news is I needed to shorten both by a few inches, at least I have a starting. May splurge on 2.5" 15° or 45° elbows. Dare I say it? Any tips? Or advice?
 
Currently from the back-to-front the 7¼ to 8 3/4 swap was relatively simple as well as upgrading from the 10" to 11" drum brakes. Originally wanted this to be all around disc but for originality's sake and conversion sake this is much easier to get down the road at a earlier date. Hardware swaped over, brake cables also worked, and down to the lines swapped over with little to 4" of cutting and flaring. Hotchkis springs, urethayne, and rubber mix bushings. Stock perches for stock ride height " possibly upside down perch install".
 
Fighting currently driveshaft lengths, own one 52 ⅜" and 2 other longer 7¼ drive shafts. One is short and other 2 are too long. Short one when installed makes a clicking type noise before park gear attemps to engage. Did I do something wrong? Missing something? Sticks out of the 904 tail cone more then original marking show.

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SBP A-Body Axles with green bearings, going up to current news. 904 Is leaking from pan, engine leaks coolant from driver side head, and power steering needs to come out regardless due to leak. Need to set lokar linkage on trans kickdown. Shifter now obstrucing driveshaft clearance. Solder header in a pin hole due from fittament setting in bolt to block. Found scrap steel on road now fabricated a circular plate to cover heater box hole in meantime.
 

Past events in the few years made me fortunate to aquire a 1998 5.9 Magnum. It has now been machine cleaned. Is stock bore, heads to my uncles eyes recognized the heads have been already fixed from any cracking. To assure this, it was magnafluxed. Crankshaft is to be measured, the journals looks to not be damaged or worn. All parts have been tagged and bagged. The block, heads, and crank are awaiting assembly. In immediate search for answers to the putting back together the right way. The previous block is sad to look back on. Regardless now into moving forward.
 
FunnyOldMan said:
Past events in the few years made me fortunate to aquire a 1998 5.9 Magnum. It has now been machine cleaned. Is stock bore, heads to my uncles eyes recognized the heads have been already fixed from any cracking. To assure this, it was magnafluxed. Crankshaft is to be measured, the journals looks to not be damaged or worn. All parts have been tagged and bagged. The block, heads, and crank are awaiting assembly. In immediate search for answers to the putting back together the right way. The previous block is sad to look back on. Regardless now into moving forward.
Click to expand...
Oh, thats great news about moving forward on your build. There are no rules about time limits and your young enough to build another 100 of em. The car looks great man.
 
Update-

So I have been fortunate enough to say first off a many big thank yous to you guys here and all around the CA LA areas for giving me the parts to make this dream of a ride...

Now to thank David Watson for selling me his magizine 340 1971 Truck Block with stock bore cylinders. 6/15/71 Tje build if possible depending on who will want to asselmble will be top down.
- 3 Holley Carb 625-750
- 1 Inch Carb Spacer
- Edlebrock Airgap 7577
- Mopar Performance Raw Valve Covers
- 5.9 Magnum Heads stock NO Crackz
- Engine Tech Replacment 5.9 Valves
- Isky Camshaft 3901 270/455
- Dougs Headers
-1971 340 Truck Block
- 1971 5.9 360 Truck Crankshaft turned down to 340 small bearing journals

This all would need a local shop willing to assemble and test for turn key installation. Can it be done? What piston/conncting rod/push rod combo? Let me know what any member could advise or who for best result.

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As of late been measuring and determining appropriate parts for application. So far in my findings.
Keith Black #107 0.040
Thank you for the possible 340 connecting rods
TQC would now be a boss hog nightstalker
Added to the list above would make a stout build if possible and machining after mock up and measurment. Anyone with similar or pointers would be great to hear out. Thank you FABO
 
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I know its been a month since you mentioned that boss hog converter. But, BEWARE my friend. I bought a custom built BOSS HOG converter and it was JUNK. It cost me $900 plus triple shipping charges to repair it - and it still wouldn't bolt up to flex plate. I spoke w/the owner and he was bragging that he cut his teeth on Chryslers - yet the flex plate bolt holes wouldn't line up with converter on my bench. He paid/sent me return shipping label and said to include my new SFI flex plate which by the way - fit 3 other Chrysler torque converters perfectly. He said he wanted to use it to fix his "jig" for bolt placement on his Chrysler converters. After he got it- he drilled out my flex plate holes extra large to fit his crooked off-center converter. Then he sent it all back to me w/damaged unusable flex plate and a torque converter that was still off-centered with the bolt holes. So, it cost me over $900 for a junk converter, and the cost of a new flex plate $150 or so, And he had the balls to charge my credit card again for the shipping back to him and back to me again. Something he said he'd pay for to get me to agree to let him repair the converter instead of returning it for a refund. He broke off all contact after I called him out on his crap. By the way the new flex plate I had to buy still fit all of my other converters but NOT his crap converter. He's a first class liar and a crook. ACC is bad mojo.
 
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