1992 5.2 Magnum

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traviss224

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My first post on the forum!!!!!!:newb:

I have a 1963 Dodge Dart in which my Slant six blew up. I am debating between rebuilding that or putting my 5.2 Magnum in it. The 5.2 is in a Dodge Dakota. I have the whole truck from top to bottom. The only thing wrong with the Dakota is that the transmission is bad. I also have a small block 727 transmission.

Question 1- Can I put the 727 behind the 318 FI?

Question 2- What problems would I encounter with that?

Thank You!
 
Yes the 727 will bolt up to the 5.2.

Now are you going to try and keep it fuel injected? Cause there you will run into a problem. The bellhousing on the transmission that is in the dak has a notch for the crankshaft position sensor the 727 will not. So you would have to cut the notch in the bell on the 727.
 
Yes the 727 will bolt up to the 5.2.

Now are you going to try and keep it fuel injected? Cause there you will run into a problem. The bellhousing on the transmission that is in the dak has a notch for the crankshaft position sensor the 727 will not. So you would have to cut the notch in the bell on the 727.
:cheers:x2
 
Also the oil pan is different from the 5.2 and the v8s they used in the 63-66 a-bodies (273). I believe the 5.2 and 5.9 engines used the same pan, with the larger rear seal for the oil pan (like a la360). So you'll need a la360 passenger car oil pan also.
 
Also the oil pan is different from the 5.2 and the v8s they used in the 63-66 a-bodies (273). I believe the 5.2 and 5.9 engines used the same pan, with the larger rear seal for the oil pan (like a la360). So you'll need a la360 passenger car oil pan also.

you can use an LA 360 oil pan for a 1978 plymouth volare with 360, dealership said they didn't stock pans for our car anymore but soon as we mentioned volare they happened to have one and it fit perfectly
 
Yes I plan on keeping it fuel injected. Since the 727 isnt electronic per se, will the engine be affected by this? Bad code reads? The notch in bell housing. Does anyone have a picture and is it hard?
 
How are you planning on controlling the EFI?

I'm running a 318 Magnum stroker in my Dart, and I swapped it over to a carb for my own sanity.
 
I have everything out of a dakota to use.

Would it be better to go to a carb engine? How much do intakes cost?
 
I found a Air-Gap knockoff on Ebay for around $150, and it has a dual bolt pattern. (LA and Magnum). It works well, and I'm very happy with it.

I chose to go the carbed route because it's easier to tune than the Mopar EFI systems are, and in your case, the '92 is an OBD 1 setup, so tuning it is pretty much non-existant unless you go to a full stand alone system to control the engine.

You could use a newer truck as a donor for the wiring harness and PCM, then you could use SCT or even MegaSquirt to tune things.
 
I have everything out of a dakota to use.

Would it be better to go to a carb engine? How much do intakes cost?


well most of the reason for going with a magnum engine is for the EFI it has, to remove that would be stupid. no need to tune it, its quite adaptable to most cams and even stroker kits. there are company's that also tune OBD-I computers also

it would be much cheaper to stay efi

you tube dodge Dakota with stroker and see for yourself
 
well most of the reason for going with a magnum engine is for the EFI it has, to remove that would be stupid. no need to tune it, its quite adaptable to most cams and even stroker kits. there are company's that also tune OBD-I computers also

it would be much cheaper to stay efi

you tube dodge Dakota with stroker and see for yourself

Adapt to a stroker kit? That's a good one. I've built more than 1 Magnum that stayed EFI, and they don't adapt to anywhere near as much as you think.

They can't give it nearly the proper amount of timing or fuel with the JTEC controlling it unless you go with a custom tune.

The best reason to swap to a Magnum is for the better heads, and roller cam setup.
 
They can't give it nearly the proper amount of timing or fuel with the JTEC controlling it unless you go with a custom tune.

Well I'm running a stroked 360 on the stock OBD-I PCM in my 1995 Grand Cherokee. It runs well, am I leaving power on the table by not being able to tune you bet. But it still works. There are a couple ways to trick the PCM.

My best run was 13.344 @ 101.44mph. And thats in a 4x4 with a 3" lift and 31" tires with stock gearing.
 
So do you know whats wrong with the trans ? Is it a 2 wheel drive A-500 ?
 
Well I'm running a stroked 360 on the stock OBD-I PCM in my 1995 Grand Cherokee. It runs well, am I leaving power on the table by not being able to tune you bet. But it still works. There are a couple ways to trick the PCM.

My best run was 13.344 @ 101.44mph. And thats in a 4x4 with a 3" lift and 31" tires with stock gearing.

My 4x4 Dakota ran 12.90 @ 107 with street tires on a stroked 318 that was tuned properly.

Of course there are ways to "trick" a PCM, but that's a band aid on a good day, and we all know it.
 
Will the 63 have enough suspension for the proposed drive train? or enough brakes to stop it ? When done right it gets very expensive. Just food for thought.
 
Will the 63 have enough suspension for the proposed drive train? or enough brakes to stop it ? When done right it gets very expensive. Just food for thought.

Agree 100%
 
Well I'm running a stroked 360 on the stock OBD-I PCM in my 1995 Grand Cherokee. It runs well, am I leaving power on the table by not being able to tune you bet. But it still works. There are a couple ways to trick the PCM.

My best run was 13.344 @ 101.44mph. And thats in a 4x4 with a 3" lift and 31" tires with stock gearing.

Seriously? I have a stock 5.9 with bolt ons and I am leaving a huge amount on the table by running a stock tune. That is a ridiculous statement. A bone stock Magnum was horrible in stock form. Plain and simple.
 
I think with a 727 in a 63 you will need to flatten the pinch weld just behind the firewall to make it fit. I would look for a 904 just beause they do fit. You will also have to use a aftermarket kickdown linkage. Also with the wiper motor on the inside that area needs to be "massaged" so the distributor does not rub on the frewall, at least mine did. I am using the schumacher motor mounts. Remove the wiper motor first, or you will damage the mounting feet. Exhaust manifolds or headers are a problem area also. I've done the swap and it is not cheap once you add in all the goodies to make it right. Alot of work too:) You can always drop it in and ugrade over time. Good luck with it. As far as carb or efi....I can't comment except for the carb option. Never ran efi.
 
Seriously? I have a stock 5.9 with bolt ons and I am leaving a huge amount on the table by running a stock tune. That is a ridiculous statement. A bone stock Magnum was horrible in stock form. Plain and simple.

Well for me it works. Like I said its not ideal, but it works. I use it as my daily driver and I'm getting around 14-16 mpg. Not much different than the 5.2 that was originally in there. But it has a lot more power than the 5.2.

If he is doing a stock rebuild with the 5.2 then he will be fine.
 
I daily mine too. And it only gets 14-15 as well. I don't understand why you would go through the trouble to build a stroker to run stock garbage JTEC. Seems like a giant waste of time and money.
 
I daily mine too. And it only gets 14-15 as well. I don't understand why you would go through the trouble to build a stroker to run stock garbage JTEC. Seems like a giant waste of time and money.

How do you figure, the 5.2 would of never got me into the 13s. So I still have a lot more power than the stock 5.2 even with the stock PCM. When I ditch the lift and the big tires, I should be close to if not in the high 12s.
The original plan was to use MS-II to control just the fuel and spark and still use the stock PCM to control the gauges, 4th gear and torque converter lock up. But since I'm using it as my DD, I can't do all of that yet.
 
How do you figure, the 5.2 would of never got me into the 13s. So I still have a lot more power than the stock 5.2 even with the stock PCM. When I ditch the lift and the big tires, I should be close to if not in the high 12s.

What did you run when the 360 was a stock stroke? You can't compare a stroker 360 to a 318 power wise.
 
That's the smartest statement I have heard. MS would be the best bet if staying FI. My point was why build a nice motor and then skimp out on tuning and never see the full potential. You could go carb and be light years ahead of where you are now. I am half tempted to go carb on mine as long as I can keep mine registered in NC and not have to pass VA emissions crap.
 
lets all agree on this, if your building a nice driver and putting a stock magnum EFI engine in, you'll see a major gain over a tired LA engine with a carburator.

those saying stay with carburator only say that because they either don't have the knowledge to figure out EFI or are too bold headed and "old school" to use the stuff that comes with the engine
 
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