Here's my kickdown from a 66. Maybe the pics will help. I'm not 100% satisfied with the connection at the carb (Edelbrock). It sticks out and pushes the bar out but I get maximum throttle at maximum throttle pressure.
2-Barrel to 4-Barrel Conversion
- Thread starter 6pk2goDemon
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Thoughts?
Mine is angled like that also, maybe not quite as much. Sure wish we could both find a way to bring it in a little tighter.
But, I can get full throttle and throttle pressure without binding so I'm okay...until that nagging voice inside my head starts.
Maybe someone else has ideas???
But, I can get full throttle and throttle pressure without binding so I'm okay...until that nagging voice inside my head starts.
Maybe someone else has ideas???
It looks like the early cars don't use the slotted rod like the later cars do. I would put the rod on the left side of the bell crank arm just to straighten it out. (back at the rear of the block)
Good catch Mike!! That will get him a little straighter, like mine (it's on the left side at the rear of the head).
Tried moving the linkage arm from inside to outside but the clip will only fasten the way it is currently.
Installed the 340 cable bracket and didn't like how it came up under the linkage as well as how far out of alignment it would be to the connection point of the throttle cable.
The angle from the clamp up is slightly more, but the alignment rear to front is far better with the 318 bracket.
Installed the 340 cable bracket and didn't like how it came up under the linkage as well as how far out of alignment it would be to the connection point of the throttle cable.
The angle from the clamp up is slightly more, but the alignment rear to front is far better with the 318 bracket.
There are right and left hand clips available. I have found them at the hardware store or possibly Menards. The threaded throttle pin is actually supposed to go in the hole in the adapter that you have the kickdown hooked to. The throttle goes on the inside (short side of the pin) and the kickdown on the long side (outside) Remind me again what transmission you are running and what kickdown linkage pieces you are trying to retrofit.
Thanks Mike
It's a 1965 904
The linkage section that attaches to the carburetor has a fixed ball joint and threaded stud so I had to move the throttle pin up to the large hole with a bushing to clear the space.
Whatcha thinking?
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In 1967 Chrysler made an important safety modification to all the kickdown linkages. They had some instances where the kick down got lodged open and because there was no slotted connection to the carb it held the carb wide open!!! This is why they moved to a slotted connection held in position by a spring. I would suggest that you move to a later model kickdown on your car, or that you at least replace the last rod at the carb so that the safety issue is solved. Below are some pics of two 318 2bbl to 4bbl conversions that I own. If you look at the rod connected to the carb you can see how factory 4bbl rods kick up and to toward the valve cover to correct the geometry. I think you can use that rod to solve your other geometry issue.
These pictures still don't show clearly the shape of the kickdown rod. I'll try to take a better picture tomorrow and post it.
These pictures still don't show clearly the shape of the kickdown rod. I'll try to take a better picture tomorrow and post it.
With the later slotted rod, you can eliminate that stupid throttle lever and just hook it straight up to the Chrysler carburetor stud where it belongs. Chrysler figured out using the slotted rod was much better for accurate adjustment of the kickdown linkage. I used everything you have on my 65 Valiant years ago but used a later slotted rod at the carburetor and it worked much better. Eliminating the throttle linkage adapter will also straighten out the angle the rod is at.
If it was ME, I'd get the later slotted rod to use between the bellcrank and carburetor and lose the throttle lever adapter. But yes, the rest of what you have would work fine.
so here are pics of the rod next to the carb that solves the geometry issue and aligns the rod front and back as well as kicks up to clear some throttle cables. Without the slotted end screwed on, it is about 10 inches long. Does anybody know what engines and years they were originally installed on???
lemondana
BlackDart
340 A Bodies and 74 360 4bbl A Body and F and M bodies with 318 or 360 4 bbl. Probably 70's-80's pickups with 4 bbls The TQ rods are the nicest.
Our 67 cuda has it.
I'm thinking 66 was the switch to the slotted rod
I'm not sure to be honest. What were they prior to 66?
64 and 65 parts manuals have it like I've been working with. Kickdown pivot on a plate mounted to the back of the block and a ball-and-socket attachment to the carburetor
It was still with the SB 904 that I picked up
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