273 questions...a few of them

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I have the same cam, 20-246-4, in my 65 273. Put it in last spring, so I have had it in for one year. All other parts were stock, lifters, springs, etc. This winter I have mounted harder springs from Sealed Power. Don't have the part#, but the stiffness is as stock 273 4 bbl springs.
I was very pleased with the motor last summer. Planning the first test run with this winters upgrade on Monday. The uppgrade is 10,5:1 pistons and Spitfire headers, and the valve springs from Sealed Power.
 
4spdragtop said:
Badsport, in that pic, the valve on the left if I remember correctly is exhaust. And all the exhaust got the new keepers. Am I right here in thinking that the installed spring height should be the same in all the valves? I see a difference in the coils, but in my opinion that is because the valve is sitting up higher, therefore putting more tension on that spring???
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Yup, they should be the same or close. For a stock engine real close would be good. Mine were slightly off when I put it together, but it's temporary and not high performance really so I didn't worry about it.

On my new build they will be gone through at the shop and the spring heights will be matched.

That is most curious, have you tried the old keepers?
 
Thanks Djakken, makes me feel better knowing you ran the same cam with everything else stock. 10.5:1 will be nice!! Ya got shares in the gas company??? That will be pricey fuel over there.

Hey Badsport, we didnt put the old keepers in the 4groove(exhaust), but we put the old 2groove(intake keepers). New retainers all the way round...Old retainers being 7* and new ones being 10* there is an issue there. Sucks, cuz I cant order them till Monday, and wont see them until Wed at the earliest. Plus $40 a set!! I tried calling Comp but they were closed and any of the local speed shops didnt have any.

Well, todays progress...or lack there of, I brought the engine home, we tried putting the old retainers and keepers on the intake valves, with the heads on the engine. We got them out but getting the other ones back in what a PITA to say the least! I figured that this way if I get a spare hour or 2, try a few things. With it being at dads I had to find 3 spare hours at least. Get the proper keepers ordered Monday.

Here is an idea, seeing as how we got new retainers and matched keepers assembled in the exhaust valves, why couldnt I see if I can get them set?? If that works for the exhaust with the intake loose then you would think new matched keepers would fix it.

Thanks everyone for the help, this is truly an amazing site!! I will have to try and make room in the garage for the laptop.

Thanks
4spdragtop and ragtops pop
 
Well, seeing as how there are no springs on the intake valves, I set the exhaust valves as best I could, just to see it there was any binding, and everything seems good, crank and cam all turn over freely when exhaust is set at .020....have to wait till Monday to order the proper 2 groove keepers. Unless anyone has some??
 
what I do not understand is on the 273 in the D-Darts they used a I-495/E-505 lift cam in it? how can your 460 not work?

the retainer locks sank the retainer and spring down on the exhaust valves as seen in pictures. That will not change the depth of the valve (it's still on the same seat and height) only the point of bind in the spring and possibly tension down deep at lift. are the new retainers hitting the tops of the guides and binding there?

I saw the pistons have double valve reliefs so even if the piston was in the wrong way it would still be ok. In fact thats an old trick to get rid of the piston offset and worth a few tenths. but they are facing notch forward as they should be.

Is the chain and sprockets new? perhaps one is manufactured and it is marked wrong? compare the mark locations if you have another...

component speaking there are only a few things to create this issue. and it appears most have been covered.
 
If your cam is hydraulic, why not switch over to the stock 318/340 stamped steel rockers and pushrods?
 
Krazy I did just that a week ago, the solid had a few wimpy lobes. I have a new stock built 340 so I removed the cam and put it in the 273. 17in vac at idle and a huge increase in mileage... I was going to put a lunati 60403 in the 340 anyway. Now i'm debating using the 340 at all....
 
I'm starting to think there must be a compatibility problem with the intake valves, the locks, the keepers, and SPRING BIND.
 
SUCCESS!! As best as I can tell anyway!! I worked afternoons this week, so I had some time today, stopped at a few places, spoke to Justin at Comp who sold me the cam kit. I called Corey at Karbelt speed and custom in Oshawa(had spoke to them Saturday as well). He misunderstood me on Saturday and thought I was looking for a complete set (32 pcs) of 2 groove 10* keepers...nope I only needed 16, as the exhaust valves were complete and sitting properly. Well they had them in stock, but of course it was too late for me to go as I had to be at work for 2. So called dad, asked him to pick them up and drop them off at my house. I went to the local auto parts store and picked up a GOOD valve spring compressor....skip the lousy Can Tire one, ya may as well wipe yer arse with the $$. I got a KD2078 and it works great. All keepers are in, and valves are all set!! No binding, but #4 adjuster screw is loose, so I think I will back it out clean it up and loctite it on. Thanks for all the help guys, this is an amazing site!!

As I said Im going to dbl chk everything tomorrow, but as of right now it looks like it was my goofs! Crank gear in wrong position, and using the old 7* 2 groove keepers.

Thanks EVERYONE!! Success and progress
 
I'm not sure locktite will hold a loose adjust screw. Maybe someone has used it there before and will chime in.
Proper fix is to replace the rocker. Yeah that sux.
The mechanical pricipal used there is interfearence threads. Means the thread per inch and'or thread pitch on the screw doesb't quite match the threads in the rocker.
Since the rocker is ductile iron the wear and looseness you have is in those threads. there isn't anything you can do to those threads but... you can distort its threads a tiny bit. Dont feck with its first couple of starting threads and dont over do the distortion.
Still others have simply staked the screw and rocker together with a keen punch after the lash is set like staking a jet or venturi tube in a carb body. Someone much more experienced might know what method works best.
 
I'll throw my 2 cents in. Obviously replacing the rocker is the best solution. However, I think Loctite can be used. Just remember that all Loctites are not created equal. They are pretty much the same thing just different strengths. For this type of application I'm thinking Loctite 290 is your best bet. You can call the Loctite Tech line (Ontario, Canada) at 1-800-668-9866. They may tell you I'm all screwed up. Good luck. By the way, I'll check and see if I have any extra rocker arms laying around. I think I have some singles some where. If I do, I'll get a couple sent out to you.
 
Hey Jay, thanks for the info, my concern is that these are adjustable rockers and you have to adjust them, so the loctite might not be the best bet. At a standstill...again!!
 
Glad to hear you finally got past the "big bump."

On the other hand, it's experiences like these that teach us stuff we'll never forget!!
 
Here is one more option. If there is enough room, you can remove the adjusting screw and add a lock nut. Then reinstall the screw. Make your adjustments and lock it down with the nut. You only need a nut about half as thick as a regular nut. Commonly referred to as a jam nut. I use this type of arrangement on my Hemi and it works fine. Here's a picture of what I am talking about. You have probably seen these before. Just be sure to use a good grade nut. SAE Grade 8 would be best.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rocker-arm-...1&item=150793562801&pt=Race_Car_Parts&vxp=mtr
 
keep pluggin away Steve, sounds like you just about got it. its really good to hear you are able to spin it around now without any problems ! very nice
 
For the loose adjuster, the jam nut solution is best. If no room, the common hillbilly fix is to mar the adjuster threads a bit with visegrip pliers until they fit tight but can still be adjusted in the future. In the meantime, check ebay and FABO off and on for a year and you might find another rocker cheap. Trying loctite might be a science project.
 
I just called and they want $50 for a used pair of rockers.....Im gonna see about a jam not if I can get one tomorrow....if not I guess its $50
 
I bought new adjuster screws with jam nuts from Summit Racing.

They solved the problem, but I had to drill holes in the baffle sheet metal inside the rocker panel because they were a bit too long. They didn't hit inside a 67 valve cover, but they did hit inside the 65 valve cover.
 
4spdragtop said:
I just called and they want $50 for a used pair of rockers.....Im gonna see about a jam not if I can get one tomorrow....if not I guess its $50
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We're in luck Steve!!! I checked my stash and have some rockers. How many do you want me to send you? E-mail your address to me. I seemed to have lost it.
 
Badsport said:
So what's the progress on this Steve?
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Hey Bruce, engine is back at dads, we have to bolt/gasket/seal the intake on and some other things. Plan is to go to dads Thursday after work(had to replace Loris front wheel bearing in the Kia last nite and today!!) So hopefully get a few things bolted on and put the paint to it. Still undecided whether to use the cork end pieces on the intake or not. Crossing my fingers to drop the engine in this weekend. Will be posting pics as I go!

PS put the mech oil gauge to it and used the priming tool 2Darts lent us and got 60 psi!! Lookin' good so far!!
 
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