273 Rocker Arm Oiling

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340inabbody said:
Welp mine wasn’t! Thats the fing point. I wasn’t getting crapola out of my top end when hand priming at 60psi. SOMETHING was wrong and I needed to understand what. I was in a debugging mode trying to understand how the system worked.
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But it's not pressurized oil there. It just dribbles out. Has to run for a few before it gets oil there. That's why a good prelube is important in the pushrod cups.
 
340inabbody said:
I haven’t read past this post as I have been busy. BUT I have to break it to ya you’re wrong here. I just figured out how the oil path ACTUALLY works. It’s because I was curious. Curiosity like what drove Richard Fineman to solve the Shuttle failures root cause.
As can be easily seen by my pictures the oil is not dispersed through the threads. So they are not part of the equation or oiling process. The ACTUAL oil relief hole is BELOW the threads. It simply seeps out and onto the ball.
Really a simple concept. Surprised that I found this on first inspection that I have ever done on these. As soon as I took it apart I had that ah ha moment.
Its not about oneupsmanship here. It’s about curiosity truth and learning or it is at least for me. Not putting anyone doen here. I am a novice at best working on stuff I never worked on before. So far I have learned of several mistakes the engine builder made. And I never built an engine before. I owe that to you guys helping me!
Thank you!

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I told you that (and showed it) way back in post 5.
 
TT5.9mag said:
I told you that (and showed it) way back in post 5.
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My bad I didn’t see that in your response it wasn’t clear to me.

“There are two holes in the rockers. The lower hole on the backside of the rocker squirts oil in to the pushrod cup.”
 
340inabbody said:
My bad I didn’t see that in your response it wasn’t clear to me.

“There are two holes in the rockers. The lower hole on the backside of the rocker squirts oil in to the pushrod cup.”
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So the WIRE through the rocker arm he posted wasn't clear? Got it.
 
RustyRatRod said:
So the WIRE through the rocker arm he posted wasn't clear? Got it.
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I knew A guy once whose dog crapped on the carpet all the time. Every time he did the owner rubbed his face in it. But the dog kept shitting on the carpet anyway. Needless to say his carpet was really fuggly….. just sayin…
 
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340inabbody said:
Welp mine wasn’t! Thats the fing point. I wasn’t getting crapola out of my top end when hand priming at 60psi. SOMETHING was wrong and I needed to understand what. I was in a debugging mode trying to understand how the system worked.
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1) this horse has been beat to death.
2) you never stated that in your initial post. You asked how does it work.
3) hand turning and priming an engine due to the geometry involved and oil paths does not always insure you get oil to the top during that procedure.
4) Rusty is a crank old b*stard but he knows his sh*t.
Syleng1
 
Fear not, - someone will be asking same or similar question in a coupla weeks, and 100+ posts later.
Retirement security. lol
 
IMG_4395.jpeg

Not to add fuel to the fire but these 67 OEM 273 rockers do not have the piss holes. I’d have to look at some more but I have never seen that hole before.


Alan
 
If so I believe (I could be wrong) these are post processing holes that were used as a pilot hole to drill out the holes in the rockers. I noticed that mine have different sizes as shown. Mine were obviously mixed and matched up as I have both locking and interference ball adj screws.
 
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Lastly I noticed what I thought was a stress fracture (along the casting line) from one of those holes but under magnification it was just a casting line with no fracture. So I am using it even though the hole is partially blown.

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I thought you were referring to what looked like a hole at the tip of the arrow.
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Alan
 
junkyardhero said:
they used an interference/tapered fit. if you need to replace a few, it's my personal opinion to replace the whole set with new adjusters that have lock nuts. it's more work, but i think it's a worth while upgrade.

here's a link to a kit:

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anyway, as long as the holes are clear, everything gets oil.
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Thank you. So I just learned that these will not fit. Went to PRW website. These are 7/16-20 for Aluminum rockers and Mopar Steel rockers use is 3/8-24 and I confirmed this by measuring mine. I’ll have to call them to see if they make the 3/8-24. Jegs site didn’t even out they type of thread spec on their page.
 
340inabbody said:
Lastly I noticed what I thought was a stress fracture (along the casting line) from one of those holes but under magnification it was just a casting line with no fracture. So I am using it even though the hole is partially blown.

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i would 10000000% replace that.

and probably have a good look around for the missing chonk.
 
340inabbody said:
Thank you. So I just learned that these will not fit. Went to PRW website. These are 7/16-20 for Aluminum rockers and Mopar Steel rockers use is 3/8-24 and I confirmed this by measuring mine. I’ll have to call them to see if they make the 3/8-24. Jegs site didn’t even out they type of thread spec on their page.
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Yup, just like I mentioned. You need 3/8 - 24 with 5/16 ball cups. That is of course, as long as you have stock pushrods, but that's not been disclosed, so make sure of the size of your pushrod cups.
 
PRW is possibly only selling these per unit as replacements. Looks like this 273 set up is getting hard to use.

IMG_2137.jpeg
 
340inabbody said:
Thank you. So I just learned that these will not fit. Went to PRW website. These are 7/16-20 for Aluminum rockers and Mopar Steel rockers use is 3/8-24 and I confirmed this by measuring mine. I’ll have to call them to see if they make the 3/8-24. Jegs site didn’t even out they type of thread spec on their page.
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here's the easy button if your call to PRW doesn't pan out:


note, that's a crane part number... lookie here:

www.summitracing.com

Crane Cams 99802-16 Crane Shaft-Type Rocker Arm Adjusting Screws | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Crane Shaft-Type Rocker Arm Adjusting Screws with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Rocker Arm Screws at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com www.summitracing.com

so you may be able to snoop around a bit an unearth some on a dusty shelf or ebay

or you could start here and DIY the rest:

1-BA 3 ADJUSTER SCREW 3/8″ X 5/16″,1.450″ OAL | Brad Anderson Enterprises

» 1-BA 3 ADJUSTER SCREW 3/8″ X 5/16″,1.450″ OAL | The Choice of Champions
bradanderson.com bradanderson.com
 
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