273 Stock & Elec ign questions

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4spdragtop

4spdragtop

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Ok, so here are some pics of Dads 273 timing/dist setup. If you look at the pics, I have put both dads orig dual point and new elec distributors side by side. Notice the difference in the orientation between the 2?? Now, I have yet to confirm from prev owner, but I dont believe the elec was installed with the 273. He had put a 360 with elec ignition in it. Would that explain the difference in orientation? I included a pic of the distributor drive slot in the block. It looks like its lined up with #1 cyl, and #1 cyl is 10* BTDC on compression stroke. Pics also of orig dist installed and the elec dist installed, you can see a difference as to where the rotor is pointing. Any ideas suggestions??

Thanks
4spdragtop and ragtops pop
 

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I donnoooo, Steve. It's a little late, tonight. If I can find them, I'll dig around tomorrow and compare some of my old dist's

Frankly, I never worried that much. If you HAVE to, in order to clear the vacuum can, just move the wires over one hole. Looks to me like th drive gear should be pretty close. It MIGHT be that there's enough leeway with the vacuum can that you can swing it far enough to time it with either dist and the no1 wire "in the right hole."

You do know, I guess, that the vacuum can belongs over on the other side.
 
Hey thanks Del, I wasnt sure bout the positioning of the vacuum can, thanks for straightening me out. And now ya got me thinking if we can "swing" the distributor to #1 it will all be good....yep its late....LOL Thanks bud!

Steve
 
The vacuum can normally points towards the passenger side. With #1 at TDC on compression stroke, the drive slot should be pointing at the intake manifold bolt in front of cyl #1 (forward most cylinder, it is on driver's side). The rotor should then be pointing to the post marked "1". Note that most Mopar V-8 dist. caps are for both SB & BB and have 2 posts marked "1". Use the one with the cw rotation arrow. As 67Dart273 says, you don't have to use the marked post, just as long as the rotor is pointing at the post with wire going to #1. A 273 shouldn't be any different than a 318-360 and either a points or electronic distributor will work as intended.
 
Still does not look right,the points dizzy is spot on I would of expected the elec dizzy to line up the same right? never seen that i hope someone has the right answer.How would you like to buy a car were the rotor does not line up as to factory specs,pull cap and wires install new ones and she is way off.Me baffled.
 
Yeah weird, everything is for #1....10*btdc on compression, drive slot pointing to 1. Just the orientation between the 2 dizzys are different. I think we got it right, except for the vacuum pod, will fix that.
Here is another question though.....seeing as how the bottom of the distributor gear is hex driven(6 sided), does that mean it can only go in 6 different ways, or because of the gear on top meeting with the cam gear, can it be out tooth by tooth(# of teeth on the top gear)?? Just curious
 
Yeah, the cannister should point toward #8 cylinder.
 
4spdragtop said:
Yeah weird, everything is for #1....10*btdc on compression, drive slot pointing to 1. Just the orientation between the 2 dizzys are different. I think we got it right, except for the vacuum pod, will fix that.
Here is another question though.....seeing as how the bottom of the distributor gear is hex driven(6 sided), does that mean it can only go in 6 different ways, or because of the gear on top meeting with the cam gear, can it be out tooth by tooth(# of teeth on the top gear)?? Just curious
Click to expand...
Steve,when installing dizzy your either 180* out or dead on.I,d just start #1 plug where your rotor is pointing.It,s not like Chebby and can,t be out by a tooth.JMO.
 
pettybludart said:
Steve,when installing dizzy your either 180* out or dead on.I,d just start #1 plug where your rotor is pointing.It,s not like Chebby and can,t be out by a tooth.JMO.
Click to expand...

Thanks Scott, so the hex shaft cant be adjusted tooth by tooth, only hex side to hex side??
Thanks bud!
 
Yeah, you can move the gear "tooth by tooth", just put a big screw driver down there and turn it while "pulling up" a little after you get a lot of side tension on the driver. The gear will walk right up out of there, and you can move it a tooth.
 
Morning Del...LOL. I hope Im explaining this right, but when I pull up, and adjust tooth by tooth, the female hex part is still engaged with the male hex end??
 
Is there any chance the top were the rotor pushes into was machine wrong? for me i would want it to drop in like the old points hence factory correct.
 
The male hex end extends clear through the oil pump. It souldn't seperate from the pump when lifting just enough to skip a tooth. If it did seperate you might have to rotate the engine just enough to get it back in the pump.
If you'll start with #1 rotor to plug wire while the advance servo is square with the block you should have plenty of rotation space to get the timing set right.

I know the dual points and pickups are in different positions on the distributor shaft but I'm not sure how that relates to the rotors position.
Just to know and say "yeah we looked", Lift both rotors and check the drive dog inside. I've seen that bit of plastic sheared before.
 
4spdragtop said:
Morning Del...LOL. I hope Im explaining this right, but when I pull up, and adjust tooth by tooth, the female hex part is still engaged with the male hex end??
Click to expand...

Yeah, you do not need to disengage the hex. That's the oil pump drive, and there's no "timing" involved with it.

..................aaaannnnndddd....................


I just got back looking at one old breaker dist, and two breakerless dists. The orientation is so close between the three, that I want to say there is no difference, so I have no answer on that

One thing you DO want to check

Pull the rotor, and look straight down at the reluctor wheel. There should be two pin retainer slots, one with a CW arrow and one with a CCW arrow. You want to be sure the "dip" in the shaft, the pin, and the slot with the CW arrow are in use

See the CCW arrow on the left side of the reluctor in this photo? That's for use with B/ RB / 426 hemi engines which rotate CCW

img20110713002684964318.jpg
 
Thanks guys, we will take off the dizzy and the rotor and do some investigating. Thanks for the info on the hex drive as well. Now I know we can fine tune it tooth by tooth if need be.
 
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