318 budget build

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That looks really good. I like the build description too. I bet it sounds good. We wouldn't know.......hint hint.
 
update, i totally forgot to do a vid with open manifolds lol, pipes all hooked up, compression test 150psi Cold test, damn thing is a torque monster! nice little idle, i ended up messing with the dizzy FBO plate set at 18 intial timing is as much as it can take lol i need a timing tab to have numbers 273 one. replaced that heavy spring with a light one runs tits, only thing is ill probably mess with the metering rods shes runnin lean. As for mileage i havent measured but sure as hell is a difference, more torque chirps from first into second from a dead stop
 
Slantsix64 said:
update, i totally forgot to do a vid with open manifolds lol, pipes all hooked up, compression test 150psi Cold test, damn thing is a torque monster! nice little idle, i ended up messing with the dizzy FBO plate set at 18 intial timing is as much as it can take lol i need a timing tab to have numbers 273 one. replaced that heavy spring with a light one runs tits, only thing is ill probably mess with the metering rods shes runnin lean. As for mileage i havent measured but sure as hell is a difference, more torque chirps from first into second from a dead stop
Click to expand...

Post a video dammit all. lol
 
And the correct red color!

You have no idea how many “Mopar resto Nazi club” members told me my ‘67 should be orange!
 
Now I'm waiting on my 273 timing tab, I got 18 in the dizzy and initial I'm not sure it's maxed until before she pings. But want to see what the numbers are at. 34 total before 2500rpm is my base line.
 
update car runs strong will fry the tire in second gear! i been counting my miles per gallon city only its at 14mpg with no choke set up and a semi flat driver side tire lol, which although is alot better that my previous motor running 8-11 city, that motor was 8:1 CR weak 120 psi camshaft was unknown hydro camshaft, thennnn going to 9:1 CR 155 Psi Roller camshaft oregon grind #1006 302 ported heads gained alot of torque and power while boosting MPG, i know i still have a Mpg or 2 in there my next mods will be an msd ignition system, changing rear gear to 3.91 from 3.55 and revisiting my dizzy one more time. thanks again!
 
I'm happy to say I reached a solid 15mpg city driving with my 318 build, things I upgraded from my last post, set up the manual choke , revisited the dizzy I guess my full timing was coming in way to late, I ordered the correct springs from mr.gasket just used one bang! Coming all in at 2400 just like it says on the instructions, I also upgraded to an msd blaster coil with a lower resistance ballast resister which is at 7ohms. Going to do a road trip to San berdo and see what the highway mpg is like. What I know can help me more if I switched to a 3.91 gear for the city but would kill highway mileage and a msd 6al box probably be best but I'm happy with everything now I can start working on other aspects of the car lol. Thanks to everyone once again! Now I'm going to finish my last project 318 magnum with a 4 speed in a 68 fastback!
 
Slant
I'm still out of town but good luck
but that coil where it gets good cool air
what's your gear now?
someone was asking in another thread what pushrods to use with a Oregon regrind
what length and interchange did you come up with (without re-reading your thread)
cheers
 
Wyrmrider said:
Slant
I'm still out of town but good luck
but that coil where it gets good cool air
what's your gear now?
someone was asking in another thread what pushrods to use with a Oregon regrind
what length and interchange did you come up with (without re-reading your thread)
cheers
Click to expand...
Jim, you better call me when you get back so I can show what this teener can do, I used ford 1986 roller 302 motor push rods off rock auto I think the length was 6.876 part number mpr281 the gears I'm running now are 3.55
 
It’s been a minute and I’ve done some upgrades to my 318. I ended up selling my 302 heads and ld4b intake. I sold the heads for $250.00 and the intake for $275.00. I bought a used magnum 318 engine with 140xxx on it for $150.00 guy said it didn’t smoke or lose any coolant. Took the heads off I didn’t do any porting just had them both resurfaced for $75 bucks. I took a razor blade in between the intake and exhaust no cracks no issues. I bought that cheap speed master rpm air gap came out to $300.00 bucks. And all I gotta say god damn this things gained some power!!!!
 
Slantsix64 said:
It’s been a minute and I’ve done some upgrades to my 318. I ended up selling my 302 heads and ld4b intake. I sold the heads for $250.00 and the intake for $275.00. I bought a used magnum 318 engine with 140xxx on it for $150.00 guy said it didn’t smoke or lose any coolant. Took the heads off I didn’t do any porting just had them both resurfaced for $75 bucks. I took a razor blade in between the intake and exhaust no cracks no issues. I bought that cheap speed master rpm air gap came out to $300.00 bucks. And all I gotta say god damn this things gained some power!!!!
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Right on.
Say, why did you pull the heads and have them milled? If you were checking for cracks, you should have magnifluxed them.
I've scraped heads at yards thinking 'no cracks'..and one ends up cracked.lol
Also..these heads don't warp unless the motor was really overheated at some point.. and in that case you dont want it anyways.
 
So from me selling off the 302 heads and intake a and all the other stuff here’s what the swap cost.

LA BLOCK SOLD parts
250+275 (intake and heads)
=525.00
80.00 (rocker arms)
=$605.00

Magnum SOLD Parts
Valve covers $85.00
Manifolds $80.00
=$165.00

Total sold part for swap $770.00

BOUGHT parts
Magnum engine $150.00
Head gaskets fel pro 1008 $110
Intake manifold gasket $35
Carb gasket $8
Thermostat gasket $3
Pushrods $48
Headbolts $0 (reused them from magnum)
Intake $300
=654.00

$770.00-$654.00=$116

so after the swap I actually made $116.00 but I’ll tell you what a lot of hard work all done in my shitty backyard with no garage lol
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Right on.
Say, why did you pull the heads and have them milled? If you were checking for cracks, you should have magnifluxed them.
I've scraped heads at yards thinking 'no cracks'..and one ends up cracked.lol
Also..these heads don't warp unless the motor was really overheated at some point.. and in that case you dont want it anyways.
Click to expand...
Hey! I just had them resurface pretty much just cleaned up reassuring me on a good seal on the heads. I was going to have them checked but I was scared lol.
 
Also ended up converting to manual steering as well, as in the future I might ditch the early Dakota and later 340 manifold and slap some Doug headers on there. But that’s a maybe.
 
Slantsix64 said:
Hey! I just had them resurface pretty much just cleaned up reassuring me on a good seal on the heads. I was going to have them checked but I was scared lol.
Click to expand...
That method would save me a lot of trouble ,at first.....lol.. just tell the customer 'inwas kind of scared ...so I didn't mag check them, have fun let me know if it works out!'
Then hand them a tube a stop leak and some motor honey.:lol:
Even if they are cracked it'll probably run a while and be lots of fun still.
 
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