Wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
after you take it apart and even if you do find out what is muffed put it back together without the seal and show us a pic of what the gap looks like naked
thanks
thanks
after you take it apart and even if you do find out what is muffed put it back together without the seal and show us a pic of what the gap looks like
great idea i will post pics as soon as i get it off
There usually is a gap on the sides so the the bearing face touches home before the sides so you get the right amount of crush on the rear main & it doesn't get hung up on the side face.
Usually i check with a plastigauge around .023
I use the Felpro BS 40245 or the double lip super seal from Mancini .
There is also the problem if any oil comes from the top valley plate or rear of the rocker covers the oil runs down the back of the engine & comes out the same place a leaking rear main does.
I doubt weather spinning the oil pump will help as most of the rear main leakage comes from when you take off & oil in the sump splashes on the rear main seal & when braking it splashes on the front seal
Also check you have a pipe hooked up to rocker cover via the PVC valve from the vacuum it helps to create a slight vacuum in the engine to help with leakage some guys put 1 to both rocker covers
My 318 LA is on the stand, its a tight gap.[/QUOT
Ok so I pulled the sump tonight & removed the rear main cap all looked ok
I removed the lower seal & fitted the main cap with tight bolts & same gap was apparent.
then I removed the top seal & rear cap bearing shell & refitted & same thing I have a gap.
then I checked the rear cap with a straight edge after removing again to find that it looks flat to me & it should sit flush on the block.
Here are some pics
YepI thought mine was leaking but turned out to be the Cam plug. I tapped it in in with sealant but didn't know you had to hit the middle with a socket to expand it. Hope you figure it out. Good luck.
after you take it apart and even if you do find out what is muffed put it back together without the seal and show us a pic of what the gap looks like naked
thanks
Take your camera and angle it in behind the crank flange. That surface in the picture is not the cap mating surface. Red arrow is the area you are taking a picture of, black arrow is where you should be taking a picture of and is the area that matters.
View attachment 1715357776
I agree it is, but nowhere near as prevalent.
Strange that the 70 dodge manual on the 318 to 340 doesn't mention wings it says to cut the upper & lower seal flush with the cap must have been the change from rope to rubberYall are going to think I am crazy........and shut up.......but I have never in my life seen the recesses in a small block main cap for those wings to go like that. Never. All of them I have ever seen and or put together like this were flat on that surface and had a standard rear main seal with no wings. This is new to me. .......and I've torn apart and assembled a lot of small blocks. I wouldn't like this. To me it's one more place to have a leak or some other problem.
Strange that the 70 dodge manual on the 318 to 340 doesn't mention wings it says to cut the upper & lower seal flush with the cap must have been the change from rope to rubber
I have seen those wings in gasket sets many times but don't remember ever seeing a main cap that accepts them.
Went out to garage and checked a 340 block I have sitting here and, sure enough, it appears to have the channels in the cap for those darn wings.
I slid paper under the gap and you may be able to make out the channel.View attachment 1715358053
I have seen those wings in gasket sets many times but don't remember ever seeing a main cap that accepts them.
Went out to garage and checked a 340 block I have sitting here and, sure enough, it appears to have the channels in the cap for those darn wings.
I slid paper under the gap and you may be able to make out the channel.View attachment 1715358053