318 parts list

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75Duster318

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I need help finding the best way to make the most out of my 318 just using bolt-ons without machining the block at all looking for the best parts to use
so if you guys have any ideals for cam,heads,intake,pistons,carb to get the most hp out of my 318 plz link sites where to get the parts at would be so much help :thumblef:
 
welcome to A bodies, we love pics ! check out the small block tech forum , there are tons of combos posted for you to check out.
 
Welcome from Sc.

A little more info. would be helpful.......

Intended use? street, street strip, race, etc.
Auto or manual trans?
If auto, t/conv. stall speed?
Rear gear ratio?

I'm gonna assume it's all stock right now, and for all intents and purposes, you can scratch pistons off the list. 99% chance you'd need machining and balancing for those.
 
Yeah it's stock auto(904) daily driver but want to have fun on weekends at the track looking for 8 3/4 rear now want to use 373 gears stall i dont know
 
Guess i should ask what type of performance/times you are looking for. So not trying to be insulting, i'll throw out a mild build to get things started.

First off, the stock 75' 318 has a real world compression around 8.0 to 1 and makes about 150 net hp. Along with a stock torque converter and the 3.73 gears, if you get them, here's one opinion......

1 5/8 Headers
Eddy/Holley 600cfm carb
Eddy Performer intake
Comp Cams Dual Energy cam...442" I/462" E..211*I/227*E @.050. Fresh stock springs should work, and the extra Ext duration should help with the weak Ext port.
Recurve of your stock Distributor

I'll say it'll make 210/220 hp. and that should put a 3500lb. car, right off the street, down the quarter around 15.0 @ 90mph as long as the 60' time is reasonable. A combo like this should be very drivable and although it won't produce bragging type numbers, from a 15mph roll up to about 75, it'll feel much faster then it really is.....should run with a average 14 sec. car on the street. As you can probably tell this is strictly a mid-range torque build.
 
A daily driver with enoug power for a bit of fun. OK

1st, 3.73's are not a off the shelf gear. In fact, there a bit hard to find.
2nd, a new set of pistons will require machine work on the block.
I like the bud above. Nice combo.

Cheaply/inexpensively done performance is possible but limiting since increasing the compression is a huge plus when you start increasing the cam size/duration. With this in mind, the only way to increase compression is milling the heads.

Before we mill the heads and probably create more issues, attention to the build details and cam size is important. Try this combo for 14 second zone.

Open air cleaner on top of a 600 CFM carb.
Dual plane intake. Edelbrock Performer, LD4B or a Weiand Action Plus. A factory iron 340 intake also isn't a bad choice ether.
I used a Crane cam for this build but what is important are the duration numbers since they dictate the RPM range it'll operate in.
Crane Cams 272/284-.454-.480-112 (216/228 @ .050)
Headers into a 2-1/2 exhaust.

I ran this in a stock '78, 318 with 3.21 gears a d a stock converter. It ran 15.14 first day out.
 
A set up in cam size and 3.91 gears will be a nice improvement.

Look at a cam in the [email protected] duration area. A mild stall converter will help a bit. Also wider tires since you'll be blowing the stock ones right off the rim.

Milling the heads here would help. It may very well also require some work on the intake for fitment.
 
nice looking car-- you going to paint the tractor to match?

you picture reminds me of the state fair & the FFA re-building grandpa's tractor, some of them are very nicely done!!

as for performance, these guys will set you straight-- the biggest question is-- what do you want it to do? Answer that, then map out your upgrades!! Lawrence
 
like the set up you guys pick out but trying for 300-375 but looks like i have to do machining to the block to get that right? and try to stay under 4000$ so if you guys have other builds that will work to get around that much hp that would be awesome
and again Thank you guys for the help. (vdart) lol no but best pic of the car but has some rust on the rockers and floor fixing this summer after the engine build (why i'm trying to build the 318 it's all matching numbers like to keep the same block in it the block only has about 105k )
 
Machining the block should be considered the first step for a performance engine, not something to avoid. If you want (or need) to be able to drive the car while upgrades are made, get a second engine to build. A 318 core isn't going to cost a lot in the greater scheme of things. Best bet if you really want to avoid machine work would be to look for a low mile 5.2 Magnum out of a Ram/Durango/Dakota/Jeep. It will be a far better starting place than a 75 LA 318 anyhow.
 
75Duster318 said:
like the set up you guys pick out but trying for 300-375 but looks like i have to do machining to the block to get that right? and try to stay under 4000$ so if you guys have other builds that will work to get around that much hp that would be awesome
and again Thank you guys for the help. (vdart) lol no but best pic of the car but has some rust on the rockers and floor fixing this summer after the engine build (why i'm trying to build the 318 it's all matching numbers like to keep the same block in it the block only has about 105k )
Click to expand...
check out the nor cal swinger thread in members restos jeffs car runs good we changed heads cam intake carb and added neaders close to 325 hp i would say.....
 
The one Bad440 speaks of,on an existing 318 short block. Very streetable,my guess,340 to 370 in h.p.The trick,learning to balance airflow,camshaft timing,and compression.
 
Stock 318 heads flow enough for 300-325hp, factory CR low 8:1 limits cam choices, A few different way to build,
Stock long block, high lift 256 or 262 cam, idle-5500 intake, 600-650carb, 340/360/5.9 manifolds or headers 250-275hp or heavily milled the stock heads or mild milled 302 with thin gasket to get 9:1 to up grade too a high lift 268-274 cam. 275-325hp, porting and 1.88-1.60 valves add 25-50hp.

I'd go KB's zero deck flat top with a thin 0.025" gasket, 9:1, stock 360 heads with performance valve job, High lift Voodoo or Xtreme Comp cam 268, 650 Air-Gap, and headers 350+hp
 
Just to recap.......

75Duster318 said:
318 just using bolt-ons without machining the block at all
Click to expand...

75Duster318 said:
Yeah it's stock auto(904) daily driver
Click to expand...

75Duster318 said:
trying for 300-375..........block only has about 105k )
Click to expand...

This is the dilemma.......If it's 1977 and it has 15k on it you could bolt on/in...

A fresh set of milled 1.88 "J" heads, with a thin gasket.
A cam in the 230*@.050 range.
The required torque converter.
Air-Gap intake.
650/750 carb.

....and probably get in your range.

But, it's 2012 and it has 105k. Spinning this engine in the required 5500/6000 range repeatedly is gonna make for a very unhappy shortblock in a hurry.

In the long run, i think the best solution is to allow for the time to pull it and have it freshened with the appropriate pistons, rings, brgs, oil pump, etc.
 
Here's what I did to my 318...

Its a completely stock bottom end from a mid to late 70's car. (cast crank, rods, pistons.) Its got keith black silvolite cast pistons that are .060 overbore, with 4 valve reliefs and they are .070 down in the hole...(remember late 70's low compression)

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I did a rering job, honed the cylinders, emory clothed the crank journals and installed new main, rod, and cam bearings. Assembled the short block with a comp cams double roller timing chain, a timing chain tensioner from a magnum engine, and the MP windage tray kit, with a HV oil pump.

The cam & lifters I used is an Edelbrock Performer RPM kit. 234/244 @ .050 and 488/510 lift and a 112* LSA.

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For the heads, they are the RHS/Indy X heads prepped by Brian @ IMM with 202/160 valves, 5/16 stems, and beehive springs for a lightweight valvetrain combo. They have a 62cc closed chamber.

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I used Hughes Engines 1.5 roller rockers, and custom length comp cams chromoly pushrods.

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The intake is an Edelbrock Performer RPM with a holley 650 spreadbore carb. It is, IMO, a very responsive carburetor.

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To finish it off, I used TTI headers.

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This engine is in my '68 Barracuda fastback, with an 8 3/4 and 3:55 suregrip. Rebuilt 904, red clutches, kolene steels, 4.2 lever, HD band strut, HD accumulator spring, with a TransGo II shift kit. 3000 stall PTC converter.

I haven't been to the track. I don't know what it runs, and I don't know what I have for horsepower...Rumble, maybe you can guess for me? 310 HP maybe??

It runs really good on the street. It feels fast, it'll chirp into 2nd gear all the time, and if I'm really on it, it'll spin the tires while shifting to second and I gotta let off...

Anyways...Sorry for the long winded post...maybe it'll help?? ....or not..
 
Thank you all for your help and yes i'm going to put new bearings,and oil pump in when i do the build with all these great ideals and i started looking at parts so this is what i found so far Holley 650 cfm four barrel street carb Electric Choke; Vacuum Secondary; Model 4150 , M1, Dual Plane, Aluminum, Natural, Square Bore Flange, Chrysler 318/ 340/ 360,
hooker competition headers full length 1 5/8 going to h pipe with flowmaster 40 series
2 chanber 2 1/2 inlet/outlet, Small Block Mopar Performance Purple Shaft Camshafts
0.430"/0.450" Lift, 260/268 Adv. Duration and guess stock pistons, rings still looking for heads if you guys have a good site to go to plz link it it would help alot but what do you guys think so far will this work what i pick out so far? trying to have this done before [ame="http://www.facebook.com/events/377415155676437/"]2013 Car Craft Street Machine Nationals[/ame] comes
 
I used KB399 dome top pistons in my 318 so I could run 915 J heads from a 340 without decking the block, ordering custom pushrods etc.

Chambers were 70cc with 1.88/1.6 valves.
I put 2.02/1.6 valves in and the chambers became 66.5cc.

My Compression ratio ended up being 10.39:1 without taking anything off The block or heads.
 
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