318 poly wide block

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I'm starting to wonder if this isn't something like the TO bearing rusted to the retainer? Can you reach in there, hand, screwdriver, etc, and move the throwout forward/ back a bit, is it "free?
 
.... in a slave cylinder system the clutch will work untill the disc wears down to nothing, ....... The slave cylinder pushrod cannot move the pressure plate far enough to disengage the clutch, because the disc is worn too far. ......

This is WRONG. When disk wears the pedal goes UP, and the release is closer to the TOP of the pedal travel. FORGET clutch "worn disk" for the moment. Try and discover why it is not releasing as you have been

It's POSSIBLE that sand, gravel, mud, and "pieces of clutch disc" have become wedged in between the rear of the actual pressure plate and the framework of the pressure plate behind it known as the "clutch cover."

Here:

10p-plate.jpg


If enough "junk" becomes stuck between the pressure plate marked "plate" in this diagram and the cover, it could do exactly as yours is.
 
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I'm starting to wonder if this isn't something like the TO bearing rusted to the retainer? Can you reach in there, hand, screwdriver, etc, and move the throwout forward/ back a bit, is it "free?
That would make sense as to why the pedal doesnt go down to the floor, and the slave doesn't look like it is moving far enough.
 
This is WRONG. When disk wears the pedal goes UP, and the release is closer to the TOP of the pedal travel. FORGET clutch for the moment. Try and discover why it is not releasing as you have been

I had to edit my previous post, I don't like getting too aggressive on these forums(it just isn't worth it).Here is my edited post:
I may be incorrect, but I know this, that transmission will end up coming out before that truck is fixed. here are the possible reasons: That clutch linkage doesn't have enough travel, the release bearing may not be moving, the pressure plate may be broken, or the clutch is shot. It is down to that you can see it in the video. Checking the linkage and adjusting the pedal freeplay is all they can do without pulling the trans and inspecting those internal parts.
 
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I did do a quick search and a 65 Dodge truck does call for a slave cylinder, so that setup looks correct, what is interesting is that there is a threaded ajustment on the linkage, you could try to adjust that rod, this adjustment would compensate for the clutch disc wear that I mentioned earlier. I would look for a shop manual with the procedure, but looking at your clutch slave cylinder movement Id say it needs to be longer. You could try that before installing a clutch. It is called 'clutch free play ajustment" in most shop manuals. Check this link out, it is about Clutch free play ajustment : Sweptline.ORG • View topic - Clutch adjustment on a 67 d-100 4 speed w/ granny gear?
I was thinking it needed to be longer as well. I just call hr clutch and they were able to find a clutch for me and I think I can order a whole new system through them including the fork and rod set up they do want me to get the clutch off and send pictures with measurements to be sure but they looked it up in a catalog for me it's a 12 in plate is what they have so I'll probably take it all apart I'm sure if the slave cylinder isn't correct I could get that through them as well. Thank you everyone I belive I have been connected to the proper people to get what I need and have a bit better understanding of what's going on I have a mechanic coming over tomorrow and I'll be able to tell him what I think is going on he can look at it and hopefully we can move it to where we can get the work done in the next couple of days. I really appreciate you all taking the time in talking to me!
 
The word I would use is Incorrect, dont be a dick. i spent a few years working in a transmission shop.
Okay well I do think it's the rod that needs either adjustment or to be longer I'll have the mechanic look at that tomorrow and hopefully he can figure it out if it is just that I can order it from hr as well. I have been back and forth about the clutch part several times now I keep getting different responses about it. What I feel like is the clutch is okay but it may be a good thing to have one ready to order anyway. Because I'm sure it's old and getting to the end of its life anyway and whose to say once we get all the hydraulic system working and pushing everything properly when we start to drive it the clutch is really worn out and shatters or starts slipping. But I am going to work on what feels like the most present problem being something between the fork and slave maybe even that the slave is to small but when I detached the rod the slave seemed to be pushing out plenty. It almost seems like the fork isnt all the way back like it could disengage more but isnt. Because it doesn't seem like the fork can go much further than it is when we push on the pedal.
 
I do hope you will post back in this thread and document your progress. Most of us have not worked much on "heavy" trucks I bet, although I've been "into" some 1 1/2T etc
 
That would make sense as to why the pedal doesnt go down to the floor, and the slave doesn't look like it is moving far enough.
When I got down there I was trying to move the fork back when I had the rod disconnected but it wouldn't budge. But I am only a 5'2" and 100 lb woman I'm strong but not like crazy strong especially in the position I have to be in to reach it from underneath or above
 
When I got down there I was trying to move the fork back when I had the rod disconnected but it wouldn't budge. But I am only a 5'2" and 100 lb woman I'm strong but not like crazy strong especially in the position I have to be in to reach it from underneath or above

There should be some forward and rearward movement of the clutch fork, it also needs to be properly engaged in the release bearing on the input shaft. Sounds like the release bearing is bound on the shaft which is what 67 Dart273 had previously mentioned. If that bearing is frozen on the shaft, the trans will have to come out I am thinking,
that and the fork may be bent/ boogered up from trying to work the clutch.
 
I do hope you will post back in this thread and document your progress. Most of us have not worked much on "heavy" trucks I bet, although I've been "into" some 1 1/2T etc
I will absolutely let you all know how everything is going!
 
This is WRONG. When disk wears the pedal goes UP, and the release is closer to the TOP of the pedal travel. FORGET clutch "worn disk" for the moment. Try and discover why it is not releasing as you have been

It's POSSIBLE that sand, gravel, mud, and "pieces of clutch disc" have become wedged in between the rear of the actual pressure plate and the framework of the pressure plate behind it known as the "clutch cover."

Here:

View attachment 1715061959

If enough "junk" becomes stuck between the pressure plate marked "plate" in this diagram and the cover, it could do exactly as yours is.

So could I just clean everything? But if I have to take the transmission apart anyway I should just go ahead and replace the clutch too right? I mean at least then there would be a new clutch in it that I wouldn't have to worry about for hopefully quite some time, given it is driven properly.
 
well if ya have it all apart then it will be easy to match up a clutch.. sounds like a plan./. pull that ***** apart...
 
There should be some forward and rearward movement of the clutch fork, it also needs to be properly engaged in the release bearing on the input shaft. Sounds like the release bearing is bound on the shaft which is what 67 Dart273 had previously mentioned. If that bearing is frozen on the shaft, the trans will have to come out I am thinking,
that and the fork may be bent/ boogered up from trying to work the clutch.

So if that is the case I should go ahead and get it all taken out measure the clutch plate and take pictures and order the clutcb because if the transmission has to come out why wouldn't I just replace the clutch while I'm at it. And get everything clean maybe replace some seals while its apart yoo because it obviously has some major leakage going on And I can order a new fork and rod set up that works properly.

Then everything should be fine with the clutch and I can at least drive it the way it was intended to be driven and start focusing on the other problems at hand like the brakes and exhaust leak. Plus or minus another dozen little things. Haha
 
So could I just clean everything? But if I have to take the transmission apart anyway I should just go ahead and replace the clutch too right? I mean at least then there would be a new clutch in it that I wouldn't have to worry about for hopefully quite some time, given it is driven properly.

If you do get to the point you have to take it apart, and you might be "there" now, I would certainly replace the clutch unless it looks good and you find "something else" that is for sure the problem

I'm starting to think more and more it is "junk" in the clutch. Is there a bottom cover on the bellhousing?
 
If you do get to the point you have to take it apart, and you might be "there" now, I would certainly replace the clutch unless it looks good and you find "something else" that is for sure the problem

I'm starting to think more and more it is "junk" in the clutch. Is there a bottom cover on the bellhousing?

It probably is junk considering there is leaks that have been leaking for obviously quiet some time and the previous owner had gone out to burning man 6 times with it so there is desert mud all mixed into all the grease and all over everything that isn't greasy too. Like thick caked on dried mud.

Where is the bell housing?
 
The bell housing is the "big thing" the transmission bolts to, also called a "bell" (slang.) If the cover is gone (below) it forms an natural scoop for road dirt, mud, snow, and whatever else is down there, including the occasional road kill
 
Some other considerations, I'm not trying to make light, here:

What sort of help can you drum up, in the muscular variety?

Power tools? Or at least a GOOD selection of stuff like 1/2 drive sockets with a long breaker bar.......those transmission bolts are likely tight, and the crossmember bolts likely rusty

How about jacks, straps, hoist, etc? That transmission is HEAVY. At my age (69) I could not lift it from the ground with plenty of room to wrassle it, much less get it in and out of a confined area

Support the rear of the engine? The rear of the gearbox (transmission) is what holds the rear of the engine up. You will need some sort of jack/ blocking/ ratchet straps whatever it takes to put under and support the rear of the engine

Having no idea of your skill, friends, equipment at hand.......Even for a (admittedly elderly) guy like me this is a BIG job
 
first thing I would do is limp it to a truck wash and have them steam clean the underside where you are going to work. Nothing worse than lying on your back and crap falling in your eyes, let alone missing a bolt and prying on something only to break a mount. That made it out to Burning Man 6 times? Thats an adventure for sure.
 
If there is a cover on the bottom of the bell housing you can pull the trans and not pull,the bell housing.
As for a clutch, I'm not sure where you live, but most cities with 20k or more people have a place that can rebuild the clutch and get you the disc you need. That way, you're not guessing if you have to correct parts.

For something like the bus you are working with, it's easier to use what you have and get it repaired.

Obviously, you didn't pick the easiest of rigs to work on. Or the lightest! That would come under the heading of heavy pig right there.
 
Some other considerations, I'm not trying to make light, here:

What sort of help can you drum up, in the muscular variety?

Power tools? Or at least a GOOD selection of stuff like 1/2 drive sockets with a long breaker bar.......those transmission bolts are likely tight, and the crossmember bolts likely rusty

How about jacks, straps, hoist, etc? That transmission is HEAVY. At my age (69) I could not lift it from the ground with plenty of room to wrassle it, much less get it in and out of a confined area

Support the rear of the engine? The rear of the gearbox (transmission) is what holds the rear of the engine up. You will need some sort of jack/ blocking/ ratchet straps whatever it takes to put under and support the rear of the engine

Having no idea of your skill, friends, equipment at hand.......Even for a (admittedly elderly) guy like me this is a BIG job
I am not going to attempt this myself I am going to pay a my bosses mechanic to do it I am assuming he will have help with him as well and I will help him if need be and I belive he has all of the tools to do it. I'm hoping he will do it where it's parked otherwise I will have to drive to him and be out of a home for a bit.
 
If there is a cover on the bottom of the bell housing you can pull the trans and not pull,the bell housing.
As for a clutch, I'm not sure where you live, but most cities with 20k or more people have a place that can rebuild the clutch and get you the disc you need. That way, you're not guessing if you have to correct parts.

For something like the bus you are working with, it's easier to use what you have and get it repaired.

Obviously, you didn't pick the easiest of rigs to work on. Or the lightest! That would come under the heading of heavy pig right there.
Well I've called around and no one in my town seems to think they can help me with the clutch but once I get it pulled and take pictures and measurements of it and send it to hr clutch I am confident they can supply me with what I need
 
first thing I would do is limp it to a truck wash and have them steam clean the underside where you are going to work. Nothing worse than lying on your back and crap falling in your eyes, let alone missing a bolt and prying on something only to break a mount. That made it out to Burning Man 6 times? Thats an adventure for sure.
Yes and I don't know how long he has driven it with the clutch the way it is for all I know it drove out to burning man like this all 6 times. He definitely knew how to drive it well in the condition it is in.
Can I pressure washer it myself? Driving it somewhere like that would be at least a 45 minute drive in a normal car in this thing probably more like an hour and a half and the only way there is the freeway. I live in placerville ca it's an old town that was originally named hangtown it's 45 minutes to Sacramento which I belive is where I would have to go to find a truck wash like that but I could be mistaken.
 
Can you get yourself down to Sac? A quick search gets a few hits on "clutch rebuilder"

LOL I posted as you were typing You sound like you have a lot of spunk.
 
Can you get yourself down to Sac? A quick search gets a few hits on "clutch rebuilder"

LOL I posted as you were typing You sound like you have a lot of spunk.
Thanks lol, the reason all of this is so important is because it is my home. I am being evicted from where I have been living tomorrow is the day I had told them I would be out but I don't think it's possible yet. So I'm probably going to be served an eviction notice and hopefully be out before they send a sherrif. But I have a 2 year old son 2 dogs and 2 cats and my fiance, we have wanted to do this for years. and it kind of all fell into our laps at once, roomates bailed on rent and I said "**** it, I'm gonna buy this bus and at least we will have a roof over our heads" so now I am here.
 
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