318 Starting Problems, Help

[Steve 66]

Currently, my 318 will initially start but as soon I let the ignition key turn from start to run position the engine dies as if it was out of gas.

Engine 78' 318 with an Edelbrock AVS, new fuel pump, with a Mopar electronic ignition system.

The problem arose when I was driving in traffic, water temp gauge needle moved slowly to indicate the engine was running hot (this was one of the few times the engine ran hot), then the stopped running and would not restart even after the engine was cold. I filled the gas tank that day and was still full.

My first thought was the fuel pump, so I replaced the pump though I continued to have the same starting problem.

Next thought was plugged main jet in the carb, clean and rebuilt the carb, found a few small particles in the secondary jet. But I still have the same starting problem.

Could this be an electrical problem with the ignition switch?

UPDATE 1: Thanks for the suggestions, I will check into in a couple of days.

 

[Plymouth 65]

Currently, my 318 will initially start but as soon I let the ignition key turn from start to run position the engine dies as if it was out of gas.

Engine 78' 318 with an Edelbrock AVS, new fuel pump, with a Mopar electronic ignition system.

The problem arose when I was driving in traffic, water temp gauge needle moved slowly to indicate the engine was running hot (this was one of the few times the engine ran hot), then the stopped running and would not restart even after the engine was cold. I filled the gas tank that day and was still full.

My first thought was the fuel pump, so I replaced the pump though I continued to have the same starting problem.

Next thought was plugged main jet in the carb, clean and rebuilt the carb, found a few small particles in the secondary jet. But I still have the same starting problem.

Could this be an electrical problem with the ignition switch?

I believe the problem is electrical. Check if you have 12 volts when the key is in the run position. 65'

 

[67Dart273]

Might be bad ballast resistor. Turn key to run, see if you have voltage at both ends of the resistor. If you have breaker point ignition and they are open, V will be "same as battery" on both ends. If the points are closed, you should have "same as battery" on one end, and something between 6-10 on the toher (coil) end

 

[diymirage]

Yup, my money would be on a bad ballast

 

[MoparLeo]

Ballast resister. Always carry an extra.

 

[nm9stheham]

Might be bad ballast resistor. Turn key to run, see if you have voltage at both ends of the resistor. If you have breaker point ignition and they are open, V will be "same as battery" on both ends. If the points are closed, you should have "same as battery" on one end, and something between 6-10 on the toher (coil) end

3x vote for the ballast being most probable. But, because it could be the ignition switch too, you should follow the instructions above.

OP, if it is the ballast, then getting the right one is important; not just any old ballast resistor will work well in the Mopar system, which uses an unusually low ballast resistance. Higher ballast resistances will weaken spark energy considerably, and that will show up in cold starts, warm-up, and some other part-throttle situations as misses and stumbles.

Best selection in order of best, to just OK:
- Best: OEM PN 2095501 (0.5 to 0.6 ohms cold); look on eBay
- Better: MSD 0.8 ohm (cold) ballast resistor; get online or in some local auto parts stores
- Just OK: BWD RU19 which you can get in many auto parts stores

 

[Steve 66]

The issue was the ballast along with a faulty wire connection in the bulkhead. I replace the ballast with an OEM (which was $35 compared $10 for the others, but better constructed) and fixed the connection in the bulkhead and the engine started.

Thank you for replying to my post they were very helpful.

 

[hemisedan]

I"ve got a similar problem with my 360 in my Valiant. It has an Edelbrock 650, MSD ignition, no ballast resistor. One thing though, when I go to start it, the ignition switch has to pushed up as I twist the key. I don't know if this could be the problem, but it's the first time that I've ever had a problem like this. In my old 69 R/T, way back when, that ignition switch, key both pulled out of the dash if I didn't watch myself. That car had no problems when starting, or at least when it was new.

Anyway, I've done the normal checks, but this is a strange one for me. It will start, but it takes a lot of work. It acts like it is -15 degrees when it's 40 degrees, that's what it feels like. I have to, what I call force start it.